Although this video is for a Toyota the techniques still apply.
You've been using the wrong tools 30 years. A torque wrench is neither a breaker bar nor a ratchet handle.Yes... is there a reason not to?
Edit: To be clear, I can see why you'd want a genuine breaker bar for busting apart something that is seized and rusted but we're talking about a bolt that shouldn't require any more oomph than you put in it to tighten a lug nut. If there's something fundamentally wrong with that then I've been doing it wrong for 30 years - albeit with the same torque wrench.
Your torque wrench is not a blunt instrument. Use a breaker bar for a breaker bar.
Now go out and get your torque wrench recalibrated.
Some habits formed while young and stupid persist well into adulthood, it would seem. Time to calibrate my torque wrench and buy a breaker barA few important things to remember about torque wrenches:
1. Never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar in either direction. Applying force beyond its torque setting can cause a loss of calibration or permanent damage.
2. Never use a torque wrench to loosen a right-handed fastener or tighten a left-handed fastener unless it is specifically designed for bi-directional use. Some torque wrenches are made only for tightening right-handed fasteners and will be damaged if used in the opposite direction.
3. Always set the torque setting back to zero after use. Otherwise, the spring can set causing it to lose calibration.
Yes, lesson learned - and we're moving very slowly here.You've been using the wrong tools 30 years. A torque wrench is neither a breaker bar nor a ratchet handle.
That rounded out drain plug is just the inevitable catching up with you. As stated, get your wrench recalibrated and also really consider what you do about the differential fluid change. It's probably not an expensive mistake yet.
So that seems to answer the 3/8 vs. 10mm question, which is too bad because that 10mm socket adapter looked like it would do the job.The drain plug hole measures 0.379, my breaker bar measures 0.374, it fits snug. also it goes in about 0.400 deep
I wonder too if you don’t have some dirt in the hole. I would pick at it with something sharp and see if you really are down to bare metal deep in the hole.So that seems to answer the 3/8 vs. 10mm question, which is too bad because that 10mm socket adapter looked like it would do the job.
For me, the good news here is the 0.400 inch depth which is way deeper than I was getting. The rounding off of the interior of the bolt is only 0.1 to 0.2 inches deep, so I have some intact bolt geometry to work with, though at this point I definitely want something that's fully square as deep as possible.
I did see a link to that part upthread. It makes sense that a Honda plug would be metric but from the measurements cited by another member it sounded like 10mm was going to be too big? My foray into the Honda SIS didn't reveal a proper socket size but if this is indeed the correct one I'm not opposed to purchasing this for the sake of having the right tool for the job, especially since I'm going to be buying replacement plugs. It's still in my Amazon cart.This is too little too late but for future reference:
Buy CTA Tools 2037 Square Head Drain Plug Socket - 10-Millimeter: Oil Drain Plugs - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchasessmile.amazon.com
Oh, without a doubt. I have a replacement fill and drain plug on order and will be waiting to complete the rear diff fluid change until I have those in hand (already have the sealing washers).Thinking that 3/8 drain plug may be buggered up
I have no idea what it was like out of the factory since I had the dealer do the first rear diff fluid change at around 15k. But my experience has been that the dealer service dept habitually over-tightens bolts like this. I had a similar thing happen to an oil drain plug on our '05 Ody - there was a time that I would take it in for the B service intervals where they do all the checks, rotate tires, and so forth, but I would do the intermediate oil changes myself. Every time I would go to drain the oil the plug was just insane tight. I think they have some guys in the back that just put an impact wrench to everything and call it a day.In the early days of the G1 Ridgeline, I remember many posts about the factory gorilla tightening the drain bolts on the Ridgeline... rear diff, tranny, etc. That crack and break free experience is common.
I'm probably going to do something similar, given the propensity for Honda OEM discs getting warpy I've replaced the discs at the same time the factory pads needed changing on all my prior vehicles. Honda must have fixed something in recent years because both my Ridgeline and our '17 Ody have done much better in terms of the rotors not going to hell - the Odyssey is a lease so I'm not going to bother with that but I might go ahead and take the opportunity to make the upgrade anyway on the Ridgeline while I'm doing the rotation.I typically do a tire rotation and brake pad/guide pin check every OCI, so I always put my Ridgeline up on 4 jackstands... which makes it easier to get to all the drain plugs and gives more room to work with breaker bars.
Great point. We had that specific issue when my son and I were installing a gas tube on a rifle. No lube required.The specified torque value is based on the use of a new, dry washer. Applying the same amount of torque to something that's not intended to be installed dry can result in over tightening and possible damage.