As a retired Honda mechanic I always smacked the fill plug with the extension and hammer and the fill and drain plug will be loose.So, hoping to go the DIY route with my second rear diff fluid change. I have an adapter to take my 1/2" torque wrench socket down to a 3/8", but it does not appear to want to fully seat in the fill plug for the rear diff. I thought I had it in there as far as it would go and got about 1/8 turn before it torqued out, deforming the fill plug a bit in the process (Pic #1). Looking at the socket adapter (Pic #2) the way it's manufactured the ends are rounded off so hard it doesn't look like it's made for this thing in the first place, which makes me wonder if there's a different adapter or tool I should be using.
Any suggestions? Or should I just take it to the dealer and tell them to install a new plug before I make it any worse?
Pic #1 - fill plug
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Pic #2 - socket adapter
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Maybe that is a trick of the trade, but upon successfully performing countless center transfer case and rear differential fluid changes on my G1, I have not encountered a situation where I had to whip out my hammer. Rubber mallet I can imagine, but a hammer?As a retired Honda mechanic I always smacked the fill plug with the extension and hammer and the fill and drain plug will be loose.
1/2” breaker bar doesn’t fit inside the plug ....he was using 1/2 ratchet (torque wrench) with a 3/8” extension.Get 1/2" breaker bar. Spray bolt with PB penetrator. Place wrench, lay on your back and use your foot to stomp/press. Otherwise it ain't happening or you will bust your knuckles. Works everytime.
Yeah, that was going to be the next step. That or taking a hex head steel bolt that I could drive with a normal socket and grinding down the threaded portion to a 3/8" square. But fortunately it never got to that point.Agreed!! or cut\grind the tip of your adapted to square up the end.
Amazon has some:
Where lubricant is required before tightening, it is specified in the service information.Then we disagree.
One area that's never been clarified (to the best of my recollection) is spark plugs. Anti-seize or not? The spark plug mfg says there's a special coating on the plugs and not to use AS. Honda says to use AS on spark plugs and provides the torque value.Where lubricant is required before tightening, it is specified in the service information.
For example, you DO lubricate the o-ring on an engine oil filter or the cylinder head bolt threads and heads with clean engine oil before tightening to the specified torque value, but you do NOT lubricate lug nuts.
The 35 lb-ft torque specification for the iVTM-4 unit's drain and fill plugs is based on the use of new sealing washers without lubrication. Lubricating the plug reduces friction which results in higher clamping forces at the same torque value which can damage threads or fatigue the components. Will it in this application? Perhaps not or perhaps not immediately, but it's best to follow the manufacturer's instructions to minimize the potential for damage and/or leaks.