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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Honda did this on purpose......... buggers.

My dealer offered to put the inserts on for free, but I was determined to put the running boards on myself.

I took a look at the oval-shaped opening next to the location where the insert is supposed to go into and decided to put a piece of electrical wire through this hole and bent it so the end would come out the hole where the insert and bolt is supposed to go into. I taped electrical tape around the wire and the thread end of one of the bolts. Pulled the sucker through and that was it. I used a lock washer, supplied flare nut, and vice-gripped the bolt while I tighted her up.

Simple and effective. No mess, no stress!

Only problem was I was two nuts short (hee hee). Just went to local hardware store and they gave me two flared nuts for free - it's always a good day when you get something for free.


BTW, electrical wire 14 gauge or anything that is stiff enough to bend would work. No need really to physically attach the wire to the end of the bolt. Electrical tape is pretty tough.


With all the nuts and bolts, having a compressor and an air gun would have saved me oodles of time. I would say with the help of a friend and air tools, you can install both running boards in under half an hour.

I actually had my son help me - spent some quality time with the kid. If I had my friends help, it would have taken 5 hours and two cases of beer.


Hope the tip helps...........
 

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The flare nut inserts from the outside-in, not from behind...not sure what you're describing here. It's like a rivet--put into the hole, rivet with tool, done.

Aloha,
Keoni
 

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Actually pictures would help more, im going to install them myself too and have yet to see the underside where it attaches. I put some on my MDX and it was a piece of cake but it didnt have these anal bolts/rivits that Honda came up with. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the tips too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah, my explanation sucks..........


bolt inside, nut outside.

put wire in through the oval hole and make sure the wire comes out of the bolt hole. Attach a bolt to other end of wire. Start pulling the wire through, the bolt goes into the oval hole, into the frame and out the hole it was intended for. except the thread is sticking out now and the head is inside the frame.

OK, pictures are not possible and I can't draw worth a damn. I'll try drawing something and uploading it....... just don't laugh at it too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Keoni said:
The flare nut inserts from the outside-in, not from behind...not sure what you're describing here. It's like a rivet--put into the hole, rivet with tool, done.

Aloha,
Keoni
We're not using the inserts....... we are avoiding it because we don't have access to the damn special insert tool.

I wouldn't have been able to install the running board successfully if I was that stupid to stick the insert in the wrong way...................
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hope the pic works..........




It's really a simple idea...... just hard to explain.
 

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It almost looks like a lead anchor that expands for use in mansoary applications.
 

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When I asked for a picture I was refering to the bottom of the boards where the bolt and nut go. To be honest I havent even looked on the underside of my ridge and dont even know where these special ones go.

I got your directions and they were understandable, I get the concept and just wanted to SEE the finished product. Cmon, im a man .. directions are for cheaters. ( Insert Tim Allen Grunt Here ) :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I'll try to get a picture of it. It just lookes like a nut on a bolt.

It's raining like crazy right now. I am not going under a dripping wet truck, so you'll have to wait until Tuesday. I live in the Pacific Northwest, so it rains most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, got some pics. They're huge, so beware......

I have no time to resize and stuff like that, so here are the links.

http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb1.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb2.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb3.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb4.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb5.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb6.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb7.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/rl_pics/running_boards/rb8.JPG

Some are pretty fuzzy - didn't bother to set macro on the camera.

Two of the pics have the bolt-instead-of-the-freakin'-insert option.

And please, don't reply with, "You need a tool to install the insert." WE KNOW THAT!!! WE ARE TRYING TO FIND ANOTHER WAY AROUND IT!

Honda did the insert thing so people would have to go get the running boards installed at the dealers. <--- Ok, so maybe that's a big assumption on my part.
 

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Great shots Mugen, thanks a Mil for taking them. I do see what your talking about now fuzzy or not. I do have a couple questions after seein that

Are the boards adjustable front to back or are they factory set?

And was that a tac weld on your boards?

The bracing arms are exactly like the ones that were used on the side steps on my MDX.

Again thanks for your time and your patience !! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, you notice everything. Yeah, one of the welded nuts inside the frame must have had some splatter in the threads. Usually it's just overspray from undercoating, but this was more than that. Anyway, I didn't really reef <sp?> on it, but it broke.

No problem, though. Even with the loose bolt, the thing was very secure. I'm close to 270 lbs and I was jumping on the thing and it didn't even move. They say you can pick the vehicle up with the running boards. I believe it.

I asked my buddy who has welding equipment to just tack the bolt up to the bracket so it wouldn't rattle.

Yeah, the bolts on the running boards are on sliders. You can adjust where you want the running boards - not much room forward and back.
 

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I see what you're doing now. My only concert doing it that way would be if you ever had to remove that nut, it may turn the whole bolt and you wouldn't be able to get a wrench behind the head of the bold to hold it from turning. Interesting approach, tho!

Aloha,
Keoni

PS. This also holds true for the nut insert--if it's not tightly rivetted in the hole, it could spin if the bolt got rusted tight to it. I liberally applied anti-seize on the bold for this particular mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There's lots of room for lock jaws, plus you can always cut them off. I dropped a bolt in the frame trying to use my finger (long reach). I thought I was screwed, but my handy magnetic pickup tool did the job.

funny thing....... my dealer asked if I would be willing to sell them the two inserts I didn't use. Apparently, their demo model with the step, not running board sold - the customer didn't like the step. They want to put the step on another Ridgeline, but the insert is not reusable and Honda doesn't have inserts by themselves available yet (in my area).
 

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I plan to order the boards for my truck next week an have been following the threads closely, I think this tool may do the trick with the rivnut problem Just replace he bolt with the 8mm and you should be good to go. I'll let you know how I make out. I plan to order the tool next week before I get the boards.

www.rivetnuttool.com



Truck is great, Just pased 500 miles and loving every minute.
 

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Does anybody know why Honda uses this rivet nut system, I am wondering if it is really needed? Has anyone who installed runningboards in the past use a rivet nut system? I was also wondering if a self tapping bolt could be used in place of the rivet nut and bolt?
Thanks, Mike Kennedy
 

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I got some used steps on ebay and I do not expect to get the special rivet with them. I will use the "bolt on the inside" method described in this thread. I will put a lock washer on the nut side. Do you think I need a washer on the bolt? Do you think a washer wil fit through the oval hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Wow, it has been a while since I installed it, but I do believe I did. I threaded the washer through the draw string/wire and then attached the end of the string to the bolt. The washer will fit through flat-wise through the oval-shaped opening.

Make sure to use a grade 8 bolts. I think the running boards come with grade 8 bolts.
 

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Thanks for the info. Just think of all the mistakes we would make without the information that is shared in this group. Technology is cool.
 
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