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Discussion Starter #1
I have seen the thread on an AX7000 install in a 2019 Ridgeline, but was wondering if anyone has experience with this unit in a 1G (2014 RTL, stock sub, no nav)? I would like to wire the speakers in parallel and run the factory sub from a single rear channel, eliminating the need for an external amp.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 

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The Sony AX7000 looks very nice. It not cheap though. Given its cost it seems foolish to me to do a half hearted job on the install. The Sony has a non amplified subwoofer output made for the purpose. If you wire all the front and rear speakers in parallel, you won't have any fader control and you will be crippling the power output to all four speakers. I also don't know whether the Sony will behave having its rear channels connected to the sub? You could check with Sony but I'm sure they won't recommend it.
Basically your plan doesn't sound like a very good one if you care about sound quality at all. A much better solution would be to add a small mono amp for the subwoofer. You could do this up front pretty easily. I have a 4 channel amp installed to the right of the glove compartment and I can easily access it's controls by dropping the glove box down.
I would also recommend replacing the stock door speakers and front tweeters. Again if you are going to dump $500 on head unit, keeping the stock speakers seems foolish to me. Good luck!
 

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OK,
I did a bit of reading and apparently the AX7000 actually is designed so that it could be hooked up in the manner you speak. I still think the system would be missing its full potential vs using an out board sub amp. Did you query the GenII fellow who installed the unit?
Let us know how it works out and please provide some pictures / details of your install.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I agree, $500 is a lot to spend on a receiver just to leave the factory speakers. I have been going back and forth on that myself. For what it's worth, my reasoning is this: My window shattering sound system days are, sadly, 25 years in the rear view mirror. At this point, I am perfectly fine with the factory system, but I would like the convenience of CarPlay, large nav screen without sticking my phone to the dash, and music library on usb. But, like you, I'm not sure if those features are worth $500.

I really don't want to remove the rear seat to get to the factory sub if I blow it with this unit or an external amp but, if it happens it happens. Someone recommended that I swap out the door speakers with either of these:


But I'm not sure how big the difference will be. Either way, I will definitely update this forum with my progress and experience.
 

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OK,
I did a bit of reading and apparently the AX7000 actually is designed so that it could be hooked up in the manner you speak. I still think the system would be missing its full potential vs using an out board sub amp. Did you query the GenII fellow who installed the unit?
Let us know how it works out and please provide some pictures / details of your install.
What did you see about the Sony that makes you think it's capable of doing what the OP wants? I took a look and there's nothing about it that's much different than any other head unit, except it has more power than most.

OP, you want to run the front and rear speakers in parallel and then run the sub off the rear channel? Technically, you could do it but the amps inside of head units are not designed for 2 ohm loads. You'd be creating a 2 ohm load if you wire the front and rear in parallel. I think the sub in the Ridgeline is dual 2 ohms, so again you'd be running at 2 ohms on the rear channels. It would probably sound OK and be better than stock. But I don't know how long your Sony would last running at 2 ohms.

I'd go the route of getting a cheap amp and connecting to the sub. I have a 500 watt Rockford under the driver's seat. I don't usually recommend Boss, but heck, even a cheap Boss or other amp is going to be better for you than trying to put such a load on the head unit.
 

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What did you see about the Sony that makes you think it's capable of doing what the OP wants? I took a look and there's nothing about it that's much different than any other head unit, except it has more power than most.

OP, you want to run the front and rear speakers in parallel and then run the sub off the rear channel? Technically, you could do it but the amps inside of head units are not designed for 2 ohm loads. You'd be creating a 2 ohm load if you wire the front and rear in parallel. I think the sub in the Ridgeline is dual 2 ohms, so again you'd be running at 2 ohms on the rear channels. It would probably sound OK and be better than stock. But I don't know how long your Sony would last running at 2 ohms.

I'd go the route of getting a cheap amp and connecting to the sub. I have a 500 watt Rockford under the driver's seat. I don't usually recommend Boss, but heck, even a cheap Boss or other amp is going to be better for you than trying to put such a load on the head unit.
If you read the info on this unit at someplace like Crutchfield or the owner's manual you will find that it is actually designed so that the rear channels can be combined to power a single subwoofer effectively. Subwoofer needs to be 4-8 ohms so that would be an issue if the OEM sub is 2ohms. Here's a cut and paste from Crutchfield . . .

"5ch/5V Preamp Outputs + Sub Control: The Sony XAV-AX7000 is equipped with 5-volt Front, Rear, & Sub pre-amp outputs giving you the ability to connect external amplifiers to your car stereo system. The unit's subwoofer preamp output is non-fading. You can adjust the subwoofer preamp output's volume level independently from the head unit's main volume control from -10 to +10 in 1dB increments. In addition, you can select the phase of the subwoofer output from Normal or Reverse.


Note: You can also connect a subwoofer to this head unit without the need of a separate power amplifier. Simply connect a single subwoofer (4-8 ohm) directly to head unit's left or right rear speaker leads (but not both). Same subwoofer controls apply."
 

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If you read the info on this unit at someplace like Crutchfield or the owner's manual you will find that it is actually designed so that the rear channels can be combined to power a single subwoofer effectively. Subwoofer needs to be 4-8 ohms so that would be an issue if the OEM sub is 2ohms. Here's a cut and paste from Crutchfield . . .

"5ch/5V Preamp Outputs + Sub Control: The Sony XAV-AX7000 is equipped with 5-volt Front, Rear, & Sub pre-amp outputs giving you the ability to connect external amplifiers to your car stereo system. The unit's subwoofer preamp output is non-fading. You can adjust the subwoofer preamp output's volume level independently from the head unit's main volume control from -10 to +10 in 1dB increments. In addition, you can select the phase of the subwoofer output from Normal or Reverse.
I scanned over Crutchfield and didn't see it. Thanks for the info. I read some reviews today, and the second review I read mentioned being able to run it with a subwoofer. The thing I found interesting is that it has a selectable impedance mode of 2 ohms and 4 ohms. The review I read said that you can connect a 2 ohm sub to one channel of the rear speakers.

What I would do is wire the stock sub in series to make it a 4 ohm load and connect it to the one channel. You're going to get at least 45 watts RMS to the sub.

My "problem" with it is it's $498 at Crutchfield on sale and normally $598. I only paid $298 for my Sony XAV- AX5000 which is the model below. The difference seems to be the higher power amp and this subwoofer thing along with 5 volt outputs. I'd rather get a cheaper head unit and a real amp and run it with the factory sub. It would be cheaper, and it should sound better with a real amp. You'd also maintain your fader control since you wouldn't have to parallel your front and rear speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thank you for your reply and I very much appreciate the input. I am trying to weigh the pros/cons and decide on a solution so, the more opinions the better. My original thinking with the AX7000 was to do something like this:

 

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Thank you for your reply and I very much appreciate the input. I am trying to weigh the pros/cons and decide on a solution so, the more opinions the better. My original thinking with the AX7000 was to do something like this:

My vote? Get the cheaper XAV-AX5000 and a Toro MR2 micro-monoblock amp. Run an 8 gauge wire to the battery for the amp, run speaker wire from the amp to behind the head unit to avoid having to take the seats out to get to the OEM sub's wiring. Determine what wires are going to the sub (which you'd have to do any way even if you put the 7000 in), and run the wires in series.

You should have a L+/L- and R+/R- going to the sub. Run a wire from L- to R+. Then take the wires you ran from the amp and connect + to L+ and - to R-. You'll create a 4 ohm load, and you'll be sending 230 watts from the Toro amp to your OEM subwoofer.


I'm running the XAV- AX5000 to all 4 speakers, slightly faded to front, and a Rockford 500 watt mono amp to a 2 ohm Alpine sub in a box I made under the rear passenger side seat. The AX5000 sounds good even with the factory speakers. I'd sacrifice power to the front/rear speakers to get more to the sub if price is an issue. You're not going to be able to tell the difference between 20 watts x 4 and 45 watts x 4, but you will be able to tell the difference in 45 watts to a sub and 230 watts.

I know that you're trying to accomplish a better sound with minimal effort, and there's been times I've gone that direction too. But believe me, it's not that much trouble to just add an amp, and you might come out a little cheaper too.

While you're deciding on a head unit, get you some 8 gauge copper wire, a ring terminal, and a cheap fuse holder. Run the wire through the grommet and down the driver's side panel and then under the driver's seat. Run you some 16 or 18 gauge speaker wire, an 18 gauge wire for remote turn on, and some cheap RCA cables from under the driver's seat to under the center console and run it up behind everything to behind the head unit. You'll have all that done and waiting for whatever you decide to do. I had all of that done before I even got my head unit. When I put it in, all I had to do was make the connections to the head unit. Then I got the amp a month or 2 later and it was complete.

Even if you decide you don't want to run an amp, you're not really out that much money and you'll have everything there in case you change your mind. $20 for 8 gauge wire, $6 fuse holder, $4 for ring terminal, $15 for 100 feet speaker wire (more or less depending on what kind/length you want), $12 RCA cables, and a few dollars for some primary wire for the remote wire. You might already have some of this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My vote? Get the cheaper XAV-AX5000 and a Toro MR2 micro-monoblock amp. Run an 8 gauge wire to the battery for the amp, run speaker wire from the amp to behind the head unit to avoid having to take the seats out to get to the OEM sub's wiring. Determine what wires are going to the sub (which you'd have to do any way even if you put the 7000 in), and run the wires in series.

You should have a L+/L- and R+/R- going to the sub. Run a wire from L- to R+. Then take the wires you ran from the amp and connect + to L+ and - to R-. You'll create a 4 ohm load, and you'll be sending 230 watts from the Toro amp to your OEM subwoofer.


I'm running the XAV- AX5000 to all 4 speakers, slightly faded to front, and a Rockford 500 watt mono amp to a 2 ohm Alpine sub in a box I made under the rear passenger side seat. The AX5000 sounds good even with the factory speakers. I'd sacrifice power to the front/rear speakers to get more to the sub if price is an issue. You're not going to be able to tell the difference between 20 watts x 4 and 45 watts x 4, but you will be able to tell the difference in 45 watts to a sub and 230 watts.

I know that you're trying to accomplish a better sound with minimal effort, and there's been times I've gone that direction too. But believe me, it's not that much trouble to just add an amp, and you might come out a little cheaper too.

While you're deciding on a head unit, get you some 8 gauge copper wire, a ring terminal, and a cheap fuse holder. Run the wire through the grommet and down the driver's side panel and then under the driver's seat. Run you some 16 or 18 gauge speaker wire, an 18 gauge wire for remote turn on, and some cheap RCA cables from under the driver's seat to under the center console and run it up behind everything to behind the head unit. You'll have all that done and waiting for whatever you decide to do. I had all of that done before I even got my head unit. When I put it in, all I had to do was make the connections to the head unit. Then I got the amp a month or 2 later and it was complete.

Even if you decide you don't want to run an amp, you're not really out that much money and you'll have everything there in case you change your mind. $20 for 8 gauge wire, $6 fuse holder, $4 for ring terminal, $15 for 100 feet speaker wire (more or less depending on what kind/length you want), $12 RCA cables, and a few dollars for some primary wire for the remote wire. You might already have some of this stuff.

I think I am going to give this a shot. You are correct, it is not THAT much more effort and, if I run the wire you are talking about, I will have more options in the future if I want a more robust system or if this is the beginning of a slippery slope down to a completely new system. I will also retain all functionality as well...

Almost forgot to ask.....How do you like the AX5000? Would you buy it again? I really like the minimalist look and seemingly straight forward functionality.
 

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I think I am going to give this a shot. You are correct, it is not THAT much more effort and, if I run the wire you are talking about, I will have more options in the future if I want a more robust system or if this is the beginning of a slippery slope down to a completely new system. I will also retain all functionality as well...

Almost forgot to ask.....How do you like the AX5000? Would you buy it again? I really like the minimalist look and seemingly straight forward functionality.
I really like the AX5000. I got mine on sale at Crutchfield for $298. I was in Best Buy on Black Friday and looked at it for $399. The next day or that Sunday it was on sale for $298, and I immediately ordered it. In the past I would have obsessed about the preamp voltage only being 2 volts, but at this point I don't care. And the amp works fine with it. A nice thing about it is even though the screen is double DIN, the chassis behind the screen is made like a single DIN so you can use that space to tuck wires if needed. I think I got lucky with the Sony. I used to research like crazy before buying something but I kind of closed my eyes and picked this one, and it worked out. My stupid LG G6 phone would not work with the Android Auto but I read that an update broke AA on the LG. I kind of needed a new phone so I changed carriers and got a Pixel 3a XL. I love being able to do so many things hands free.

The subwoofer output on the Sony is a single mono out. I use a female to 2 male Y cable at the amp. I'm not really sure if you need to use a Y or not. I was told by Crutchfield you should but I plugged a single cable in once and didn't notice a difference. But I put the Y cable back on. I ordered a 10' A/V cable from Amazon for less than $9 and ran it. That way I'm ready if I want to add an amp for the fronts. I use the yellow cable for the sub. I always run my rear speakers in a vehicle off of the head unit since I just want rear passengers to be able to hear something while riding without having to turn the fronts up.
 
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