[hopingforahonda]

can you post a pic or two the osc radiator? Particularly the heat exchanger fittings and perhaps a side by side with the stock radiator if the osc appears to have a wider core / heavier duty construction than the stock denso. Their video is impressive but i wonder what the reality of the part is? Thanks!

 

[eurban]

Thanks for the Pics! Looks like it was well packaged and the fittings look decent enough; it appears to use a compression type fitting to be able to "clock" the transmission fluid connections which seems to be pretty standard on the aftermarket radiators. No spring loaded belleville washer like on the OEM unit. Overall, I can't really see from your pics any reason +- to go with the OSC over other aftermarkets but it might take a direct comparison with another to reveal differences . . .

When you do pull out the old one, it would be interesting to know your thoughts on how it compares to the OEM unit. . .

Thanks again!

 

[Carsmak]

Hoping, would you mind getting the side thickness, and then take the side thickness of your OEM, I've got a Spectra, how ever you measure it, I can duplicate with my junk Spectra.

Does look like it was packaged well, looks like a minimum to no fins were bent in shipping which was the problem with both my spectra's. The first I returned to Amazon, the second I should have returned, I didn't and it failed within 16 months (approximately)

 

[eurban]

One thing about this OSC radiator is that it does not use a brass heat exchanger.

On their website they have a comparison "study" between the OSC radiators and various other aftermarket brands. The OSCs almost always were heavier with a wider core and larger diameter heat exchanger. The exchangers were also typically brass or stainless steel.

Not sure if brass is really better than aluminum . . .

 

[Miley]

thanks very much for this write-up and the responses, guys!
the dealership wants $500 to replace my radiator which has a tiny tiny coolant leak. now im inspired to take this on myself.

 

[hopingforahonda]

Hoping, would you mind getting the side thickness, and then take the side thickness of your OEM, I've got a Spectra, how ever you measure it, I can duplicate with my junk Spectra.

My OEM and the OSC radiator are both 1" thick on the side.

 

[Kyle]

Hello all,
I took a picture of my fittings and they look pretty rough. I have an 07 with 110k miles so it is definitely time for a replacement. I am looking into aftermarket options that will ship to an APO. It seems people prefer koyo or OSC for shipping durability. So leaning that direction. Do people recommend replacing the thermostat with all the hoses, or is that not a major issue with the ridgeline?

 

[Carsmak]

I haven't seen any posts other than one where the person was having heating up issues which were resolved by replacing the thermostat. Hoses, I replaced my upper and lower hoses(not heater hoses) and I'm sure they could have lasted longer, but the rubber seemed granular on the inside, outside seemed perfect. OEM hoses were thicker than aftermarket, a "get what you pay for" thing.

 

[Kyle]

Thanks Carmack, I was mainly thinking of replacing it while I had the hoses out, just for easy access and timing. Just not sure it is worth it or not. I am also considering just staying with an OEM radiator to alleviate the likelihood of damages during shipping. While the 3.5L is common in the states, I don't think they sell it here in Germany, so not sure I would want a local honda shop working on it.

 

[speedlever]

Be sure to remove any shipping plugs in the connections when you do the install. I recall one member who had overheating issues and couldn't figure out why... until he took the radiator back off and discovered the mistake.

 

[Kyle]

Be sure to remove any shipping plugs in the connections when you do the install. I recall one member who had overheating issues and couldn't figure out why... until he took the radiator back off and discovered the mistake.

Thanks for the tip, I don't think I would have even thought to look for plugs.

 

[Bam]

Well out of fear after reading some of these posts I changed out my radiator. It was mainly for peace of mind but I found was a little disapointing. After the install I pulled the fittings and from the o ring to the threads to the back of the fitting looked like they were just put in yesterday. Wonder why some are so bad and some aren't. It's an 06 so I'm sure they are all the same radiator and material. Also the fittings on the new radiator were loose. After they were tightened up the one on the passenger side was almost staright up and down to were the original hose was close to not working.

 

[eurban]

Well out of fear after reading some of these posts I changed out my radiator. It was mainly for peace of mind but I found was a little disapointing. After the install I pulled the fittings and from the o ring to the threads to the back of the fitting looked like they were just put in yesterday. Wonder why some are so bad and some aren't. It's an 06 so I'm sure they are all the same radiator and material. Also the fittings on the new radiator were loose. After they were tightened up the one on the passenger side was almost staright up and down to were the original hose was close to not working.

Just about all the aftermarket radiators use a "compression" type fitting for the hose barb. That means that you should be able to hold the hose barb in a fixed position and while you tighten up the nut. If you don't hold it tightly it will move when you tighten the nut which is undoubtedly what happened in your case. You might want to loosen and retighten those hose barbs in the proper position as you certainly don't want impeded flow due to kinked hose(s).

 

[hokiefyd]

After the install I pulled the fittings and from the o ring to the threads to the back of the fitting looked like they were just put in yesterday. Wonder why some are so bad and some aren't. It's an 06 so I'm sure they are all the same radiator and material.

I found the same with our '05 MDX. Lots of apocalyptic writing on the MDX and Pilot forums about the radiators. I changed mine a few months ago (130k miles) and the fittings were still very sound. One of the two washers at each fitting had rusting, but the fitting itself seemed very tight. Others report that it falls off in their hand when they take it out. Just the luck of the draw, I guess.

 

[RidgeDawg88]

Do you have to plug the tranny lines after disconnecting them or will a couple sets of small vice grips do the trick? If they must be plugged, what do you use to plug them?

 

[speedlever]

I think the Spectra comes with some shipping plugs in the lines. Remove those before installing and perhaps they will work to plug the tranny lines.

 

[OhSix]

Be sure to remove any shipping plugs in the connections when you do the install. I recall one member who had overheating issues and couldn't figure out why... until he took the radiator back off and discovered the mistake.

WOW! IME that would be difficult to do. Slipping a hose over coolant & trans fluid fittings is already pretty tight - leaving a cap in place while doing that would be very difficult. I've been in the "get it done" mode many times - missing small details - but this one would require special effort to *accomplish*.

Do you have to plug the tranny lines after disconnecting them or will a couple sets of small vice grips do the trick? If they must be plugged, what do you use to plug them?

Pardon my confusion with the question. Do you mean plug the lines during removal of the old radiator? If so, a couple of comments on that.

If the hoses are going to be reused/left in place after swapping the radiator it's a bad idea to crush a hose to control leak during service. Doing so weakens its composition & breaks internal weave introducing a potential future failure.

I've seen "professional mechanics" use clamps/vise grips to crush brake hoses during service. Any "pro" doing that is woefully inept at their job!

You know those red racks with misc parts marketed under the brand name "HELP!" at the parts store? Usually they'll have a small selection of caps - mostly intended to cap vacuum lines. They work well as a temporary fluid port cap. Its worth a couple bucks to grab those making sure there are enough 3/8" caps to do the job. Better yet, put those couple bucks towards new trans hoses. No need to purchase Honda hoses for the trans to cooler, "universal" hose will do the job nicely.

 

[bigdogrod]

i just turned the hoses up so they wouldn't drip. i was changing tranny fluid anyways so a bit of leakage doesn't concern me (with the truck anyways :grin

 

[Flyboy]

I'll be doing my radiator this weekend. Probably on Sunday. It's a spectra premium and i haven't opened the box yet.

One thing I've done in the past to plug smaller hoses temporarily is to find a bolt that fit the hose without stretching, insert it and wrap tape around it or even use the hose clamp on it.

Of course my bolt collection has gone from bins and bins to practically nothing.

A whittled down wine cork works in a pinch.

 

[Carsmak]

Be sure to remove any shipping plugs in the connections when you do the install. I recall one member who had overheating issues and couldn't figure out why... until he took the radiator back off and discovered the mistake.

Exactly

WOW! IME that would be difficult to do. Slipping a hose over coolant & trans fluid fittings is already pretty tight - leaving a cap in place while doing that would be very difficult. I've been in the "get it done" mode many times - missing small details - but this one would require special effort to *accomplish*.

IIRC, I would call the fitting on the Spectra a "PLUG" not a Cap, it was inside the inlet/outlet, and you pulled it out. I guess if your in a hurry, I could see it happening, and that was almost 3 years ago, they could have changed their packaging.