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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sprint Booster Failed (Has been replaced)

Yesterday my Sprint Booster failed. I was pressing the gas pedal and nothing was happening. Popped the hood and removed the Sprint Booster and now the gas pedal works. I used my scan gauge to see what DTC was making my check engine light come on. The DTC code is P2138. I can't find that code anywhere. I'm going to contact Burtman to see about a replacement. The Sprint Booster web site says it has a 2 year warranty. I hope they will send me another one because this this is too light for a paper weight.
 

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Yesterday my Sprint Booster failed. I was pressing the gas pedal and nothing was happening. Popped the hood and removed the Sprint Booster and now the gas pedal works. I used my scan gauge to see what DTC was making my check engine light come on. The DTC code is P2138. I can't find that code anywhere. I'm going to contact Burtman to see about a replacement. The Sprint Booster web site says it has a 2 year warranty. I hope they will send me another one because this this is too light for a paper weight.
I had what I thought was the same problem once. The unit was not plugged in all the way and the vehicle went in to limp mode (no throttle but high idle enough to get the truck to move). The VSA and CEL came on. Once I plugged it in properly, the VSA lights went out and within a couple of hours the CEL was off. Everything has been great since.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried to unplug it and plug it several times with no success. I even tried using a little dielectric grease on the contact points and that did not work either.
 

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I tried to unplug it and plug it several times with no success. I even tried using a little dielectric grease on the contact points and that did not work either.
There is no reason that it should help, given that dielectric grease is an insulator. :)

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/dielectric

Dielectric grease has been used in the past to coat the outside of electrical connections (such as automotive battery terminals) as an anti-corrosion measure. It is safe to use around various connections, especially multi-conductor trailer wiring, because it will not cause a short-circuit.

For batteries, most places that take the trouble of protecting the terminals use a mysterious purple gel that I wish I knew more about, or just the tight-fitting plastic cover that most manufacturers have on the cable fittings, or nothing.

If you have successfully used dielectric grease to "improve" a bad connection, it's probably because the connection was made better due to cleaning or re-fitting, and despite the grease.
 

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Give me a call from the # on our website. It's under warranty, as long as it wasn't your fault, i.e. you smashed it with a hammer or dumped it in a lake, then we'll replace it n.c. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your reply Jason. You have a couple of voice mails form me already. :)

Now that I've had a chance to drive without the Sprint Booster i can honestly say that i miss it. This is a must have mod for our Ridgelines.
 

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Good. I just put mine in my new 09. I didn't think it could be any better, but it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Back to the way it should be. I don't know what Honda was thinking when they designed the rate of operating for the electronic throttle body but this sprint booster should be standard equipment.
 

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tokeytokertin

I'm not sure how long you had the Sprint Booster on or off your turck, but I was hoping you could comment on its effect on fuel economy. Did your MPG go down when you put the Booster on and did the MPG go back up when you took it off?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fuel economy is relative to how you use the gas pedal. The sprint booster makes the gas pedal move like as if it was connected to the throttle body by a cable not electrical wires and a motor. Yes my gas mileage went down only because i use the gas pedal more.
 

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Just had my sprint booster go out on me while I was in route to a call through my fire department. 2017 RL. Vehicle went into limp mode, all lights came up on the dash and the display cycled through all systems showing them disabled. I ran the codes and got the p2122 and p2138 - Throttle/Oedal position sensor/switch "D, C, E" circuit low input". Checked to ensure it wasnt loose or anything. I removed the SB, reset the codes and things seem to be working fine, although some of the codes are still stuck as "permanent' on the computer.
 
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