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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Top trim and braces are off. Wait g for it to cool down (had do take a quick run for lunch) to finish taking it out. I'll post some pics as I go.

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok before I break this connector how does it release. It's the lower passengers idea on the fan shroud.




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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Stopped for the night. It's been a disaster. Couldn't get the bottom shroud off. I did drain the fluid though. I also forgot how much my head weighs lol. Then I was moving the bucket of Coolant and the old brittle plastic broke on the edge making me drop it and fluid go everywhere. Luckily I had a bag of red dri.
So I give up - I'll try again tomortow.

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Sounds pretty much like a normal maintenance event in my world. :D
 
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Is that the connector for the fans you're talking about? I remember struggling with them. It seems once I figured them out they came apart easy. And the spot in the pic that looks like a screwdriver slot is for retaining the connector to the shroud I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes I got the upper connectors apart but this one is hard to get to. I'm going to get the lower shroud off tomorrow by rook or crook. Maybe it will be easier to get to.

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I did mine this weekend too. You don't actually have to take that connector apart. It will slide up and off of a metal mounting tab that's connected to the fan shroud. From underneath you'll see a little square clip that holds the wire on the underside of that clip to the fan shroud as well. I was able to push a flathead screwdriver into the plastic clip and pop it open. Then you can just move that wiring harness out of the way.

And good luck. Mine went just about like yours is going. I made sure I had the extra bolts for the lower fan shroud/transmission line mounts before I even started. I could see that they were rusty and figured they'd break when I removed them. Only one did but I replaced the others anyway.

PS: It's much easier to remove the fans once you have the radiator out. I wouldn't try to remove them with the radiator still in place. Not sure if that's what you're doing or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the info. I'll get the lower shroud off and take a look. Everything on mine lloks new. No rust anywhere, a little showing on the tc cooler connections. I did find that it is a honda radiator.

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Everything on mine lloks new. No rust anywhere, a little showing on the tc cooler connections. I did find that it is a honda radiator.

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Big difference between a NC truck and a NWPA truck. And my swap ended up being a waste of time. My fittings were in good shape. Probably would've lasted as long as anything else under there. Hopefully yours actually needs it.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Regardless, you know what you have now, whether it was needed or not. Before it was just a guessing game. Some have lost that game and wish they'd paid to play. Kinda like the valve adjustment.
 

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Before I replaced mine I searched YouTube to see if anyone had done a video on it. I found one. A few minutes into the video it became clear to me that the author wasn't a member of this site. I don't remember why he was replacing his radiator but it wasn't PM. Anyway, after pulling the old radiator he began removing the ATF lines. His transmission cooler fitting basically fell off. He made some comment about it seeming odd but didn't pay it a whole lot of mind. He had no idea how close he came to the SMOD. I chuckled a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I watched the same video. He kept calling the oil cooler lines too. I started to do a video but I'd have spent too much time yelling at parts because they wouldn't come loose. I've not been able to get either of the hoses off of the engine side. I'm going to have to cut them off I guess.
 

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I had to cut my Coolant lines off when i replaced them last year.

Edit: I replaced my hoses because at 10 years old they were looking like they were deteriorating from the inside, The rubber felt "grainy", such that if you rubbed on it little rubber balls were on your finger tips. I noticed this because when i removed the lower and upper there was rubber left on the fittings.
 

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I watched the same video. He kept calling the oil cooler lines too. I started to do a video but I'd have spent too much time yelling at parts because they wouldn't come loose. I've not been able to get either of the hoses off of the engine side. I'm going to have to cut them off I guess.
Unless you're replacing the upper hose, there's no need to disconnect it at the block. My lower hose was a royal PITA where it met the block. Luckily I have a small pry bar with a backwards claw on the end. I wiggled the claw under the end of the hose and pulled/pried it little by little until it was loose enough to twist off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Finally finished Here images of the at cooler coonctions from my old unit First is fighting sidge. It was in nice and snug but the washer is def. Coroding next is the left side. No apparent issues. I don't think this needed to be done and may have been done already. (I found a lot of new screws). But- the right side was going to go eventually and I like the brass fittings on the spectra. Not having to worry/wonder is worth the fix.

Now-when are the fans supposed to run . They don't seem to come on now.





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When you turn on the AC, both fans should come on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ah ac on. Got it.

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I would have to verify, but as with most vehicles:
1 fan comes on when the vehicle reaches operating temperature and the 2nd fan comes on with the AC.
or
Both fans cycle on at operating temp?

I remember reading something about the fans when storing the RL, but don't recall atm.
 
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I would have to verify, but as with most vehicles:
1 fan comes on when the vehicle reaches operating temperature and the 2nd fan comes on with the AC.
or
Both fans cycle on at operating temp?

I remember reading something about the fans when storing the RL, but don't recall atm.
Yes, both fans come on at operating Temp.
 
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