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In case anyone is as lazy as me (I'm not about to take the truck half apart to replace those stupid pulleys) or as cheap as me:

1) Get a package of Velcro strips ("Velcro One-Wrap") designed to attach to it's self such as for wrapping around cords, etc. I found mine @ Lowes for a few dollars & have most the package left over.

2) Get small fender washer & self tapping type screw to fit same (also purchased @ Lowes).

3) Insert screw into fender washer, through middle of whatever length of Velcro you're using & screw into middle of groove on bottom side of seat that leg fits into when folded. Trim to fit as you like.

Voila! Problem solved! Less than $5.00 & 15 minutes.
 

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Now that Honda has replacement metal pulleys for only a few bucks it makes even less sense to me not to fix it the right way. But what ever floats your boat! :)
 

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Thanks, the part number for item 37 is 82139-SJC-A01 according to bernardiparts.com If you search for it on the internet you do find customer complaints about the the seat support not retracting, but no confirmation that this part is infact the redesigned pully.
I just ordered a set from my local honda dealer, where my good friend is the parts manager. We found the TSB and the part number on it is 82139-SJC-A02.
This part number is new since April 2011. When I get them in hand (Monday?)
I'll let you guys know what material they're made of. They list for $5.33 each.

*edit* Sorry just found the other thread two down, lol *edit*
 

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If the Honda parts come in and they are made of plastic don't waste your time. The repair job is pretty easy. All you need is a 10mm wrench and a small flat blade screw driver to gently pry up some plastic parts. It took me less than an hour to fix and the metal parts work great. Just follow the instructions in this post. You can find the parts on eBay. I've had both pulleys break. One they fixed under warranty and the second time I just replaced both of them myself. If you put in the plastic parts, you will just be fixing it again later.

I would also suggest that you mail your broken parts to:

American Honda Motor Co., Inc.
Honda Automobile Customer Service
1919 Torrance Boulevard
Mail Stop: 500 - 2N - 7D
Torrance, CA 90501-2746

and explain that you won't be needing them any more. Maybe if they receive enough of these broken parts they'll so something at the dealerships to help out other Ridgeline owners in the future.
 

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This is fantastic. I just called Howdy Honda in Austin, and the parts dept. said they are around 6 bucks a piece. I was transferred to service, and was told it would cost a total of $300 per seat to replace. That includes a $75 part.
It's amazing how they can get away with something like that.
 

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One of mine broke months ago and was waiting for the other to break so I would do the job once. Called Honda to see if they had parts they did'nt. They didnt know anything about it and never had anyone in to have theirs replaced. Once he looked it up he tried selling me more parts. Told him I'd take it apart first to see if I needed anything else. Anyone else have to buy anything more then just the pulleys. Is it other parts that you could break when taking apart or putting back togetheir. Thanks
 

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Your pictures (which were great, by the way) start off w/ both seats in the upright position. My pulley broke w/ one on the rear seats in the down position, so I envision having problems accessing the trim underneath the seat to start fixing the problem. Any suggestions?
 

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Your pictures (which were great, by the way) start off w/ both seats in the upright position. My pulley broke w/ one on the rear seats in the down position, so I envision having problems accessing the trim underneath the seat to start fixing the problem. Any suggestions?
Yes. Read my post above (#65) and let the dealer deal with it.:act035:
 

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[FONT="Verdan[SIZE="4"[COLOR="black"][COLOR="Blue"][/COLOR][/COLOR]][/SIZE]a"][/FONT]

New guy here. Just found this site last night and registered. Happy to find something that looks like it will be invaluable to any/all Ridgeline owners.

I bought a 2006 Ridgeline RTL in June 2005. First one sold by the Honda dealer here in Williamsburg, VA. Great Truck. Only significant issue I've had is the rear seat support bar. My 60/40 seat pulley broke on the "60" side about 3 years ago. Truck had just run up to 29,000 miles (don't drive it that much), so I worked with the Honda dealer's Service Manager and he was able to convince Honda that this should be a "warranty fix". Sobeit, it was done. The repair charges (in 2008) were in the order of $500.00+ dollars. Quite a bit to pay for a rear seat pulley replacement job. But, since it was covered, I didn't worry too much about it. Truck only has about 38K on odometer now
(12/2011), TLC driven and garaged.

About a year+ ago (2010) the 60/40 rear seat broke again (another pulley) this time on the "40" side. I took it back to the dealer and they quoted me a price of about $550.00 to fix it. I said I'd think about it. About 6 months later, the "60" side pulley broke again and now, I supposed, I was looking at over $1,000.00 to replace the two pulleys (Incidentally, until I found your site, I didn't even know that the pulley's were the culprit. Never occurred to me to ask the Service Manager 'WHAT" they fixed on the first "60" repair).

Certainly not interested in the least in paying that much for two simple pulley replacements. I now use a small bungee cord to hold the seat legs up with the seats normally kept in the upright position.

Then, I found this site. Wasn't even looking for it. Must have been the hand of fate (...or finger?).

I'm now in the process of ordering two new metal pulleys and want to download these great pictorial steps to installing them myself. I'm fairly handy with hand tools and don't see where I would run into too much grief.
So, thanks for this club, thanks for allowing me to register and; hopefully, the next time I "post", it will be to announce that the replacement action is complete and the seats again work fine.

Vic ~
 

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Welcome to the ROC, Vic! $1K is absolutely ridiculous to replace the two rear seat pulleys! I replaced mine proactively (they weren't broken) using the great aluminum pulleys from the Honda Store (click the link at the top of this page, then click on Ridgeline). Using Meng's excellent instructions at the first of this thread, took me about 45 minutes to replace both pulleys. It's very easy if you follow his instructions - kind of like taking apart a jigsaw puzzle, what with all the clips & fasteners. Speaking of; no matter how gentle you are with the trim covers over the pulleys themselves you'll break one or two of the clips that hold those together but not to worry, it'll go back together and stay together. Take some time and read through this site, you'll find many great DIY projects here, along with great maintenance how-tos!
 

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The pictures at the front of this thread are priceless! Get someone to help if you find it too daunting.
Older posts show the average price quoted by most dealers was ~200 bucks.
You should have just gone ahead and had them replace both pulleys the first time, even more, they should have suggested it!
Problem is they would have put in plastic pulleys which were all that were available at the time... yeah, hindsight can be a great teacher.
 

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Re: Rear Seat Support (Bar or Leg) Won't Retract (Stay Flat With Seat Up)

Meng, your instructions/pics to repair the reas seat legs is simply magnificent! I would not have attempted this repair without your insightful tutorial! THANKS MUCH! Again, the value of information sharing in this forum comes through with flying colors!

Per Honda Service Bulletin 10-068 referenced later in this thread, purchased two cable guides (P/N 82139-SJC-A02) for appx $15 for local Honda dealer. Following Meng's instructions, I was able to replace both of the damaged plastic cable guides, with just a bit of complication as explained below.

The new cable guides provided by Honda P/N above are indeed metal (aluminum). However, the new cable guides had much too tight of a fit to slip onto the stems by hand. In fact, I eventually had to use a small hammer to start the cable guides on the stem part way and a little cockeyed, then clinched them down with the nut once I hammered the cable guides far enough down the stem to get a bite of thread. The cable guides only go on one way, but the fit tolerance was simply too tight to fit on by hand alone, which was surprising and annoying, and proved to be time consuming in carefully hammering the cable guides on to the stem.

Funny story on how both of my rear seat legs were damaged. First, my brother-in-law, who has an American made SUV, reached in and pulled down on the black leg just like he has to do on his SUV, and snap, that was it for that leg. Not long thereafter, my other brother-in-law did the same exact thing to the other side! Unbelievable! Because of that, I'm labeling both legs with a warning "DANGER Do not touch DO NOT PULL." I was tempted to put on a label reading "DANGER Do Not Touch ELECTRICAL SHOCK" but resisted the temptation.

Another pointer...with Meng's photos, I was able to see where the plastic trim tabs were, and was able to use a very flexible thin metal putty knife to gently pop the tabs free one at a time. All of the plastic trim came off fairly easily with no damage, except for the seat pivot covers. In removing both covers, I did break off the very top tab (highest point) on both, but the other tabs released, and I was able to close both covers without a problem, and they looked perfectly intact despite the broken top tabs. I did not fully remove the pivot covers, just peeled them back enough to work, though the darn things did scratch my fingers up some. But I don't consider it a successful project unless I bleed a little lol.

Don't be afraid to attempt this repair. Meng gave us all the info to do the job with minimum fuss. Honda had to make it a little difficult with the bad fit though.
 

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Good job! At least CSI will have to dig under the seats to find the blood. Yeah, those shells are thin and sharp, I double checked them after I had everything back together except for the plastic floor molding. I found I could snap the shells at a couple of more spots from the bottom.
 

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I just bought my brand new used 06 RTS ten days ago. I paid a Honda dealer to do the Certified Pre-owned inspection. They didn't find a single thing wrong with it - they even sounded apologetic. So I handed the check over to the guy I was buying it from, grabbed the title, opened the door and the rear seat leg was sticking straight out! I laughed out loud. I think it was reminding me that I just bought a used truck. When I got home, I went straight to the ROC to find out what the heck just happened.

Thanks to you, I've got my two pulleys exposed (that doesn't sound right when I read it out loud) and am ordering two to avoid doing this again.

By the way, I asked the dealer for a quote for just the labor to replace the pulley: $417!
 

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Are you saying the legs to the rear seat were sticking out when the Honda dealership you paid did the inspection and they didn't see that? Or they did see it and just didn't know what that indicated? Either way, they didn't do a very good inspection!
 

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By the way, I asked the dealer for a quote for just the labor to replace the pulley: $417!
Now that Honda has metal pulleys that should last the life of the vehicle, it seems dealers want to charge more to replace them!
 

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Same rear seat problem. 40% portion wasn't working, but the 60% portion was. Took to dealer, quoted $260+ to fix. When I got home, noticed that the 60% portion was now broken as well. Assume mechanic who wasn't knowledgable on the problem played with the good one and broke it as well. To me, it's a big product defect and Honda should admit it and fix it.

I've found a $5 solution that I'm going to try. Will install a plastic broom holder in the inset groove for the locking bar and then just push each bar into the clip, then pull it out when ready to lower the seat. I refuse to pay Honda approx. $500 to fix their defect.
 
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