Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello Group.
Well, we keep trying to find a good deal on the purchase of a new 2020 or lightly used 2019 RTL. Note, we've never purchased a new vehicle, so maybe my understanding of this process is skewed. We are trying to buy a RL within 500 mi of Daytona FL, so our search is wide, but we want to register it in CA. (don't ask why) Or just register it in FL then deal with the xfer later.
1. If the dealer has posted price, does one not expect that is not the absolute lowest price? I assumed that there is some negotiating to be had.
2: Are the finance and "manager" really that obnoxious? The sales person has sent us a quote, then the "Boss" people tell you that is all wrong, and jack up the price.
3. Shouldn't TTL fees be the same from dealer to dealer?
4, When should the 2021 come out? Will dealers be willing to be more flexible on the previous year models?
Lastly, I've been reading the Purchase price thread here, an figured that I have a reasonable idea of what you all have paid, but perhaps the market has changed, and can't seem to come close to some of the deals I see. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Going to brain dump my process for you.

Don't use posted price. IT IS ALWAYS HIGHER than a quoted price. Unless the dealership uses the lowest possible price tactic, which includes all incentives, assuming you qualify for ALL of them, which 90% of the time you don't.

Couple things first. You need to know how you are paying for it. Cash, no problems, financing, you will have be upfront otherwise some games will come from dealers regarding prices.

Next, decide on the model you want, it's going to be hard to find lightly used 2019s, or the price won't be what you want. There are no incentives on used vehicles from the manufacturer.

You need to email dealers directly. My strategy was email 5 of the closest surrounding dealers to my home that had the inventory I was looking for. Ask them for the out the door price of wherever you are. This will include tax and fees. Also ask them for any hidden costs. I've been bit by this a couple times. Some dealers require you pay for wheel locks, others put dumb add ons (pin stripes, nitrogen air, "paint protection", etc) at hugely marked up prices. You want to know your price and terms BEFORE you enter the dealership. Make sure the price they quote is valid for your method of payment. Some dealers require you use Honda Financial or their Bank for their quoted price. Some don't care.

Now that you have 5 emailed quotes from dealerships, figure out where you want to buy it. Feel free to try and price match another dealer. These trucks only come one way, so it's easy to pit them against each other as it's apples to apples. Not like BMW or other brands where options are a la carte. Make's it tough to compare. Get it down to 2, as your best one might still explode on you during signing. Now you have 2 prices that you should be happy with, you can goto the dealership and get ready to buy it.


The finance and manager are only obnoxious if you are not well informed. Do you research. Know how much things cost. Know what YOU want. If you want a warranty and don't care how much it costs for peace of mind, they will gladly sell it to you for 2500. But if you know that you can buy it online from another dealer, you can save over 1000 bucks. Same goes for accessories and what not.


TTL is not the same from dealer to dealer unless it is state mandated. I wouldn't try and deal with the CA registration thing, unless you know the process well, the dealer will not release the car to you unless full liability from them is gone. Things like insurance and reg differs from state to state, but it could be a nightmare.


Usually dealers will get incentives to clear inventory in the fall season, but no guarantees on how much as 2020 just came out, 2021 should be a very similar car. I shopped for my 2019 starting in January of 2019, and got quotes from local dealers every 4 months. Mid September hit, and the numbers dropped significantly, almost 2k off the last quoted price I had. Honda also had a pretty large incentive on the vehicle during this time, so I was able to snag a screaming deal on a 2019. Using my strategy of knowing what I want, knowing how I wanted to pay for it, and not really giving the dealership any reason to try and sell me anything I didn't need, all I did was buy the vehicle. It took 1 30 minute dealing with the finance guy when I walked in, handed him a check, and they delivered my car the next day. I did a ton of research, I had a very specific model in mind. I knew what I wanted to pay. I knew all the games, as this was my 5th new car in 7 years. So it was easy. Don't walk in to a dealership and expect it to be easy. Do it online via email. You have the cards in your hands, where in the dealership, under pressure, you will have to fight to get what you want.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,012 Posts
Good info from @blaze741

Here is another thing to watch out for.... in Florida, you cannot purchase the extended warranty from another dealer out-of-state. If you know for sure that you want the extended warranty and that you are moving to CA, you may be able to get the extended warranty for less once you are established in CA. I think around $1500 for the 8/120 is a good price online, but most dealers will start around $3k. If you can get the 8/120 for $1500 from a Florida dealer, go for it!
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
3,921 Posts
I have said this many things around the forum here and OdyClub so I have no shame saying this.
CostcoAuto Program helps a lot. If you do not have a Costco Membership, get one just for this. Before even stumbling upon this, I contacted about 22 dealerships in NY, NJ and PA (I live in NJ) with reasonable driving distance. All correspondence was done through the email to get a price. I also used my long term broker to shop for it. Always ask for the OTD price. Various dealerships use various fees to offset their very attractive pricing.

1. It is never the lowest price. Though the margins on new car sales is very low, the dealership incentives are based on how many new vehicles they can move. So they will try to shove a vehicle in your pocket as much as they could, with maximum profit they can make. They will tire you out if you go into a dealership and do window shopping.

2. It is all BS. It is a game they play and it is what they do as it is a sales strategy. Finance managers crunch numbers to maximize the profit on a car sales; sales managers make sure cars are sold and moved out. There are informed finance staff, and there was idiots. I have met my fair share of both. If they say that the price varies if you finance with them, get up and walk out.

3. Yes, but the documentation (DOC) fee changes. See my spreadsheet below (actual numbers and dealers I got a response from with written commitment).

4. 2021 is essential a 2020, so waiting wont be in your favor as the prices just go up, not down. Given the review of the Ridgeline everywhere, the sales of these trucks are above mfgr predicted volume. So getting a deal is very infrequent. Do you due diligence.

5. Use dealerrater.com to do your research on which dealership is somewhat decent. See if any members on ROC live in the state you are in. or a neighboring state within 2-hrs of your drive.

Do your research. Use true value guides such as truecar.com or nadaguides.com to get fair price. FOr example, for my zipcode, the Nadaguides.com said the MSRP is $44640 for a '20 BE with no options. TrueCar says that the market average is $42,204. Use that to argue MSRPs on dealership inventory. Be aware of any current and upcoming manufacturer incentives to ensure you are getting a fair deal.

I bought my Odyssey from Open Road Honda for $46500 though the cheapest they would commit to was $48450. Because of the Costco program, I was able to get Honda of Hackettstown (Costco Participating dealer) for close to $46645 and price matched with my broker from Leasing Direct. However, walked into the dealership on a Tuesday afternoon at 1pm when there were about 4 sales folks, 1 financial staff, and 2 sales managers. Showed them the written price from Honda of Hackettstown and settled for the price I paid. Once I settled, and paperwork was drawn, I told them to change the financing fees, as I was paying cash. If you are buying with cash, NEVER tell them that when negotiating your price.

Capture.JPG


Every person here who has bought a new vehicle has a story on how they approached their purchase. learn from them, do your homework, and get them. Once you buy it, be happy, even if the price was to fall short in few months. Last thing you want is a guilt or buyers remorse.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,483 Posts
You won't find deals like people were getting on the 2019's late last year and earlier this year. The 2020's had the new transmission. Honda was clearing out the 2019's, but that won't necessarily happen again because the RL will be virtually the same in 2021. Don't beat yourself up over not getting a smoking deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
101 Posts
Coming from someone who has purchased a lot of vehicles in the past 8 years, some vehicles I purchased were great deals, and a couple others were right at invoice, not so great deals. The key is knowing when you are getting ripped off by a dealer. Getting a good deal on my RL was just an automatic buy from me as it hit a target price I was willing to spend. Now I'm shopping for Miata's and there really is no such thing as a smoking deal on a new Miata... those prices fluctuate in the hundreds of dollars which is not worth the fight.

In short, buying a new car sucks. It's a painful, dreaded process by most, and I hope to not have to do it again for many years, at least for my DD. Toy car is a different story.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,483 Posts
You can drive out to Boulder, CO and have your pick of RL fleet vehicles brought in from California. Can't say I have ever seen that many at one dealership.
Fleet.PNG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you all.
A few more details, We are planning on paying cash. We can reg the car in FL. We know we want an RTL or RTLT AWD. (Would take an E if the price was right) We don't have a costco membership, but AMEX seems to offer a similar deal. ( We only figured this out after getting a quote form a dealer. The amex price was significantly less, but when we contacted the dealer with the amex deal, then came back with the original quote, (wtf)) Has anyone used the amex deal

@smufguy: Great details, Curious about the DMV and Sales tax figures. If you told them where you were going to reg the RL, why are they so different? Next, If you switched from finance to cash at the last moment, did you go through the whole credit check process? Great that you were able to get them to honor the finance price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I indeed went through some of what you posted. Right here in Florida. Did the e-mail thing with 5 dealers. Most were near me, one far away. Went to the lowest priced dealer, WHAM! My salesperson was not available. I was given a slick salesperson that was all snake oil! Oh, he gave you the wrong price, this is the new price. It was $6,000 higher. I showed him what the other person gave me. Oh, he must have been quoting you a different vehicle. I laughed, walked out. The GM contacted me by e-mail and wanted to know how my experience was. Well, I blasted them! Next day I get a call from the sales manager. What can I do to make this right. I said, honor the price I was given, he agreed, I went back. It also helped that it was the last day of the month I believe. Everything went well, except for the "Florida Dealer fee" of $800. I demanded another $1,000 on my trade to make up the difference. He agreed. So, stick to your guns. Be prepared to walk out, laugh as you do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Buying a car is a whole area of expertise most people don't have, because they buy a car only a few times in life. A dealership sells cars all day long and knows exactly what they are doing, down to the last penny. Becoming an expert on this is a huge effort and full of traps.

So I would go back up to the post above's advice and just use the Costco membership purchase. It's not the rock bottom price but it's pretty close, and saves you a ton of negotiating time. You can still save money after you agree on a price with Costco too.

  • Never buy the warranty. You can buy it yourself for much less from a direct seller if you want one, at any time while the car is still under the manufacturer's warranty.
  • Buy gap insurance on a new car directly from your insurance company not from the dealer. It's worth it and very cheap from your insurance co. Call them first.
Just using Costco and paying in cash, with the 2 tips above will get you a solid deal.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,483 Posts
Thank you all.
A few more details, We are planning on paying cash. We can reg the car in FL. We know we want an RTL or RTLT AWD. (Would take an E if the price was right) We don't have a costco membership, but AMEX seems to offer a similar deal. ( We only figured this out after getting a quote form a dealer. The amex price was significantly less, but when we contacted the dealer with the amex deal, then came back with the original quote, (wtf)) Has anyone used the amex deal

@smufguy: Great details, Curious about the DMV and Sales tax figures. If you told them where you were going to reg the RL, why are they so different? Next, If you switched from finance to cash at the last moment, did you go through the whole credit check process? Great that you were able to get them to honor the finance price.
It seemed like some owners who paid cash still had to go through the credit check process. It protects the dealership from unscrupulous buyers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
Just remember the Honda care warranty has to be bought before the 3/36 month warranty runs out. I am buying one Monday a 5 year 80k mile for $930 through Hyannis Honda. As posted above never buy from the dealer you bought from without checking online.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I'm a Costco member and they sent me to a particular dealer in Western NC. That dealer's OTD price for a 2020 RTL-E was at least $1K higher than 4 other dealers that I got prices from. It wasn't the highest price that I got. Sometimes it helps and sometimes it doesn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,687 Posts
We've used Costco Adobe Acrobat PDF files often TO INITIATE A PRICE QUOTE. The simple way it works is to send a direct email to several dealers and when they reply with whichever is their DIRECT EMAIL ADDRESS, reply back with a (1) ready to buy today (2) see attached PDF file for OTD +++ quote from Costco (3) no trade, moving paid tag/plate, have ability to pay for entire transaction

Even if a trade-in comes into play, won't disclose that until fully decided on dealer/price/pickup date. Once price is locked, at last moment (last day of quarter), disclose trade and NOW they are forced to come up with a legitimate valuation for the trade. Have even done this via email only, sending pictures of car on that last day and pictures included the VIN - dealer responded with a price and three emails later an agreement was reached. Email purchase requites setup of a new email address that will be abandoned immediately upon pickup of the car (spam honeypot)

Have done this without ever visiting dealer lot or even speaking to any dealer on phone multiple times, literally seeing that car first time when I drove to pickup keys and plop cash on finance manager desk.
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E (Modern Steel Metallic), 2013 RTL (Dark Cherry Pearl)
Joined
·
1,358 Posts
I’ve bought a ton of cars, and have learned to read whether a dealer is really ready to move a unit or not. You can tell by their directness and pricing. Timing is everything. Shop around on line, email, caii the dealer. I finished negotiating my RTL-E on the phone and had them send me a purchase order to verify. Nearly $7,000 off by being patient and helped by April being a good month to buy.
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
3,921 Posts
@smufguy: Great details, Curious about the DMV and Sales tax figures. If you told them where you were going to reg the RL, why are they so different? Next, If you switched from finance to cash at the last moment, did you go through the whole credit check process? Great that you were able to get them to honor the finance price.
Yes I did go through the process and it was not a hard inquiry.
The sales tax figures are varied as the tax is calculated on the Price of Vehicle, Destination Fee and the DOC Fee. So in some of the rows, you will find one or more of those items missing and thus the weird tax numbers (since I used a spread sheet to auto calculate). This helped me decipher the amount they were charging for each individual aspect of the sale.

For a while, the base price of my van was the lowest in the reported prices on OdyClub and now for a 2019 MY, my base price stands at the 16th lowest price in the nation with the 3rd lowest in the North East. From the spreadsheet that OdyClub has, it appears that the central to west part of the US has lower prices, than the east, let alone the North East. So if you are in a state that is west of me, you could shop around and get a decent price. If I was you, I would keep looking for a new 2019 model.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,716 Posts
As someone who knows the automobile market by the back of my hand (market maven), and who is extremely good at negotiation let me explain a couple of things right now that may be of some help.

First, due to the pandemic production has either stopped, or crawling. There are people here who'll know more about RL production currently than me, so keep in mind I'm talking the whole automobile market. So when production has either stopped or barely moving, it's a sellers market due to low volume of vehicles around. Add into that dealers aren't moving volume so they are trying to ring necks on every new or used purchase.

The used market is even worse. Due to the lack of vehicles flowing, used dealers are buying up used cars. Even the auctions, any decent vehicle is going for thousands more than its worth. Used dealers are bidding up every vehicle just to get something on their lot to sell and turn a buck off. So that means, again taking the market as a whole, that used values are up and you are going to pay more than what the vehicle is worth to acquire one.

Next is the pandemic and stimulus. Businesses have received stimulus or loans to keep them afloat. The government is just printing money and handing it out. So to a dealer things aren't doom and gloom for them until that stimulus/loan money runs out, business as usual, so they'll try to rape you same as normal.

Add to this even repos are on hold. Extensions have been granted to people who cannot make their payments on their vehicles. This is a balloon thing that expires in a few month where owners will have to settle up, and pay all the payments they missed or get their vehicles repo'd.

Add all of the above together and I wouldn't be buying anything right now unless you find a dealer or private party seller wanting to sell for actual worth not an inflated price. All you can do is look, speak/write via email, and if you get what you want for the price you think is fair, buy it. I'm in the market right now looking at GT350's and M2C's and I've just decided that due to all of the above, right now is not a good time to be buying a vehicle. Winter will be better or when things normalize. I always buy low and sell high, and I refuse to buy anything in a sellers market. I have extreme patience and can wait years for what I want. That's always the trick to buying a vehicle for an extremely good price, patience. You set your price, stick to it, and wait months to get it.

And there will be people over the winter in dire financial straits looking to liquidate their vehicles for a song as to not ruin their credit. New vehicles it's all about supply being ramped back up with many many Ridgelines being at Honda dealers. Until then....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,122 Posts
I inadvertently stumbled into TrueCar, and was worried that it would invite a hoard of salespeople. In a sense it did, but mostly email, and they started sending me prices....which was kinda nice, actually.

The prices were fairly competitive, but more than people were reporting having paid here in the ROC. My local dealer provided one of the lower bids, so I went and talked with them in person. I laid the ROC-reported prices on them, saying "I know it's available many places for X" and I think that actually helped. Wound up with about 6k off - this was in late November 2019, when the factory programs were pretty aggressive - which was within a few hundred bucks of what people were reporting here, and I was OK with a few hundred since they had to fetch the particular truck from a dealer about 3 hours away - figured they were paying a guy for most of a day to do that.

So I found the shopping tool to be helpful, because it kind of brought the market right to me - several dealers pitching prices without me pounding the streets/phones for their proposals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,119 Posts
It's not a good time to be in a position to HAVE to buy a car right now. Some of us don't have the luxury of waiting should something unexpected occur. Inventory on anything that interests me is slim right now. Certainly not like last summer. A local auto repair talk show mentioned that his shop is crazy busy and folks are putting money into cars that are ready for the graveyard. Maybe some of those folks are buying new cars too.I think this has something to do with the govt. assistance. This coupled with manufacturing decreases implies advantage seller.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top