Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 70 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I want to replace the stock subwoofer with a better quality unit in the stock location, behind the back seat. From the pictures here, it looks like I can simply find another 8" or so subwoofer.

Will I be able to find a replacement that will be unamplified and compatible with the stock wiring, and if so, where? I am not looking to install an amplifier, replace the stock HU, etc. I'm just looking for a simple solution to improve the sound quality on my stock system.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,111 Posts
Lots of folks are going to tell you that there is no point in upgrading the OEM sub driver, I'm not an expert in audio, but I'm thinking a simple driver swap and/or stuffing the OEM enclosure with acoustic batting might yield surprisingly good results. Spending $20 on a driver would be a huge upgrade from the OEM poo. :)

Seems to me you need to know as much about the OEM driver paramaters as possible as well as the volume of the sub box and port specifications, then you could go shopping for a sub that would make the most of the OEM enclosure and available power.

To profile the driver, one would need to track down the manufacturer specifications or use something like this

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=390-806

Since the enclosure is plastic and has lots of contours, ribs, etc. measuring the volume is as simple as filling it up with water and seeing how much it holds. :)

Any audio 'pros' want to jump in and 'pimp' the OEM sub?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,705 Posts
Don't do it, you will not get good or better results. Get a bazooka 6.5 inch for back there or ask Ian how to get a box built with the driver he used, for under $70 you can improve the sound.

There are no good shallow 8 ich drivers to get good results either unless you are willing to add an amp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,334 Posts
Trying to improve the OEM sub by replacing the driver will only produce imaginary improvements while you spend lots of time attempting it.

The original sub is a vented or ported design. That means the port's length and diameter are tuned to a specific frequency chosen based on the cabinet volume and the driver parameters. You are almost certain to replace the original driver with one that has vastly different parameters (free air resonance, compliance, equivalent volume, total "Q"). The OEM tuning will end up completely wrong, causing either worse bass response and/or a big peak at the wrong frequency.

Most vented systems work best with little or no stuffing, so adding stuffing will do nothing but muddy the sound.

Some have suggested sealing the box instead. Sealed systems are much less sensitive to tuning. But sealed systems need to be sealed. A new driver probably doesn't match the original mounting. So you need to fix that and ensure a tight seal. The OEM box is two parts of plastic screwed together with a gasket. You need to remove the vent and seal it. After re-assembling the box you need the sealing to be very good. Even if you were successful, the OEM box is not made of stiff materials. It will expand and contract with the woofer's movements. That means it will vibrate and resonate - none of which is good for sound quality.

If you want a better woofer in the stock location, build or buy a box that fits. Choose a driver that fits and can operate in a sealed box of between .3 and .5 cu. ft.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
9,951 Posts
Boss Audio Onyx series shallow 10" sub - $45. Jensen Power 400 bridged 2ch amp - $45. Home-made behind seat sealed enclosure - $20. 8 gauge amp wiring kit - $15. Improvement in bass output and quality - priceless.

You will NOT see any improvement by replacing the stock driver within the stock enclosure. First and foremost, you likely won't find one that will fit. The stock driver is VERY thin and I don't believe anyone makes something like that which is available for individual sale. Secondly, as has been mentioned, the stock driver and enclosure were designed together to work in tandem to provide the best bass quality possible for what it is. Lastly, there is only about 30 watts RMS being provided to the stock subwoofer through the stock HU. No matter which subwoofer you try to attach to this, you'll never get any decent results with only 30 watts of power. If you want better bass performance, you'll need to add an amp - period. You can take the route I suggested above as a budget-friendly option. The other is to go with the powered 6.5" bazooka that has yielded quite good results, as reported on here by others. It's a little more expensive, but it's easily wired and installed and gives you instant improvement.

Additionally, the stock speakers are horrid. If you don't want to go through the hassle of replacing them, at least do the tweeter replacements as seen in laserguy's thread. For about $150-250, you can have better bass and much better highs with the stock HU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,705 Posts
Boss Audio Onyx series shallow 10" sub - $45. Jensen Power 400 bridged 2ch amp - $45. Home-made behind seat sealed enclosure - $20. 8 gauge amp wiring kit - $15. Improvement in bass output and quality - priceless.

You will NOT see any improvement by replacing the stock driver within the stock enclosure. First and foremost, you likely won't find one that will fit. The stock driver is VERY thin and I don't believe anyone makes something like that which is available for individual sale. Secondly, as has been mentioned, the stock driver and enclosure were designed together to work in tandem to provide the best bass quality possible for what it is. Lastly, there is only about 30 watts RMS being provided to the stock subwoofer through the stock HU. No matter which subwoofer you try to attach to this, you'll never get any decent results with only 30 watts of power. If you want better bass performance, you'll need to add an amp - period. You can take the route I suggested above as a budget-friendly option. The other is to go with the powered 6.5" bazooka that has yielded quite good results, as reported on here by others. It's a little more expensive, but it's easily wired and installed and gives you instant improvement.

Additionally, the stock speakers are horrid. If you don't want to go through the hassle of replacing them, at least do the tweeter replacements as seen in laserguy's thread. For about $150-250, you can have better bass and much better highs with the stock HU.

And if. The onyx driver is as efficient as claimed, no amp may be needed at first and it will be better than the factory one.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
9,951 Posts
And if. The onyx driver is as efficient as claimed, no amp may be needed at first and it will be better than the factory one.
Negative. It IS as efficient as claimed because it doesn't take much gain on my amp to get it to pound pretty good. However, because it is a dual 4ohm coil sub, you have to wire it in series for an 8 ohm load. If you did it in parallel for a 2-ohm load, it would likely cause havoc with the stock wiring and might damage the amp in the HU. However, after hearing it (after it broke in a bit), I think you could likely get away with an extremely cheap and small amp to drive it such as, say, a 2ch motorcycle amp. In any case, it's an inexpensive alternative that yields impressive results. I have mine bridged to my 2ch amp, so it gives a total load of 4 ohms. It's clean and VERY musical. Exactly what I wanted. I'll be doing my full install thread with a ton of pictures hopefully sometime this coming weekend.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Don't forget to add $30 for a good wiring kit for the bazooka unless the place where you buy it includes it. Some places do.
I was always under the impression that I could use the factory subwoofer wiring to connect to a Bazooka (besides running my own power and ground). Is that not recommended?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,705 Posts
I was always under the impression that I could use the factory subwoofer wiring to connect to a Bazooka (besides running my own power and ground). Is that not recommended?
Yes factory speaker wire, the power and ground you need to add, unless it comes with it, I'm not familiar with it I assume it's like adding an amp since the bazooka has its own amp
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
9,951 Posts
I would assume the Bazooka would need a turn-on wire. Where are people tapping into to get the 12v signal? Also, 8 gauge wire can be purchased pretty cheaply by the foot. 16 feet of power and 2 feet of ground should be plenty. Shouldn't cost more than about $10.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,421 Posts
I think it comes with cables, or an optional kit, depending on model. I also think it can be set to turn on when a signal is present. I read about it a couple of months ago, forgot some details.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,705 Posts
Yeah they try to make it simple for a user to just connect power and ground and the speaker level sig will turn the amp, remote wires will be history in the near future with the new technology available for good amps.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
9,951 Posts
Yeah they try to make it simple for a user to just connect power and ground and the speaker level sig will turn the amp, remote wires will be history in the near future with the new technology available for good amps.
That's pretty awesome to know. I saw that the rated frequency range on the Bazooka is like 30-90Hz. Is that really true? I'm impressed that a 6.5" driver could reach that low, but sort of disappointed that it can't reach above 90Hz. I know a good set of 6.5" components should be able to handle those frequencies, but I would think it should be able to reach well into the 150-200Hz range?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,334 Posts
That's pretty awesome to know. I saw that the rated frequency range on the Bazooka is like 30-90Hz. Is that really true? I'm impressed that a 6.5" driver could reach that low, but sort of disappointed that it can't reach above 90Hz. I know a good set of 6.5" components should be able to handle those frequencies, but I would think it should be able to reach well into the 150-200Hz range?
I think the powered tubes have a low pass filter. All things considered it probably works best in most cases. It minimizes the overlap between the sub and the existing speakers. That should produce less muddy mid-bass.

Bazooka tubes are not really targeted at the fussy listener hence the somewhat no-tweaking-required design.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,421 Posts
Very true, they are for those who want something a little better than most stock subs, without investing much money.

Similar to the degree a improvement you will get for $20-40 with a pair of decent ear phones over the crap most mp3 players come with. Not at the audiophile level by any means, but a noticeable improvement nonetheless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
KTMRICK - Have you actually installed behind the seat where the factory SW is? Looking to install the Bazooka but I want to ensure that it fits before I go through the work of removing back seat for install.

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
9,951 Posts
KTMRICK - Have you actually installed behind the seat where the factory SW is? Looking to install the Bazooka but I want to ensure that it fits before I go through the work of removing back seat for install.

Thanks.
This is a pretty old thread, so I doubt you're going to get a response from Rick anytime soon. To answer your question, the 6" powered Bazooka tube fits behind the driver's side of the rear seat back - not the passenger side where the stock sub is. There is more depth on the driver's side and only about 5" of clearance where the stock sub is. You can leave the stock sub in place and simply use the wire leads from it for source signal. Or, if you're replacing your head unit as well, simply leave the stock wiring and sub alone and run new RCA's from the head unit to the Bazooka.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,782 Posts
KTMRICK - Have you actually installed behind the seat where the factory SW is? Looking to install the Bazooka but I want to ensure that it fits before I go through the work of removing back seat for install.

Thanks.
Some have just added a small amp (Alpine KTP-445U ) to the stock sub to make it sound better.
I put the Bazooka behind the seat in my RTS. While it was an improvement over stock but for my taste in music (Jazz), it was muddy. Here is a thread with some pics...

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/9-mobile-electronics/37068-so-who-has-bazooka-sub-under-rear-seat-2.html#post532751
 
1 - 20 of 70 Posts
Top