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One payment into the new truck... Friday night, a negligent person towing a landscape trailer tried to make a right hand on ramp from the left lane. What do we know about the structural integrity at the cab-bed joint? The outside side of the bed is pulled away far enough to put my hand between them. Driver's door is pulled out at the top and the latch is now almost an inch below the striker. I'm not driving it for fear of having catastrophic frame damage.

No one physically hurt. No question who was at fault. Have been biting my nails all weekend because no one is open to get the process going.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Indeed he is. My challenge is not having a good gut knowledge of the safety of using it in the meantime, or the cost and schedule to repair. If this were a body-on-frame truck, I'd have a good guess (+/-20%). With the way the Ridgeline's built, I confess to not having a clue.
 

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Damn, sorry to hear about your truck. Good to hear you're not banged up.

Wish I as closer to you would help you analyze your damage as far as safety goes.

In the long short of it, the steering wheel tells a hell of a tale. If anything is truly bent in the front suspension the steering wheel will tell you if that is the case. The steering wheel will be off center or the vehicle will pull badly to one side or the other. The rear I'm guessing is just fine.

Picture 1 says maybe something is tweaked up front and picture 4 doesn't look so bad from a driving standpoint.

That's just my .02 cents. I spend 3 hours a day sitting on the road around here and have seen far worse junk taped up and driving down the road.

Some members here will tell you that you shouldn't even touch that thing as it may spontaneous combust. I'm kidding of course but sometimes the level of safety police on this board is over the top. Use some good judgement on whether to drive it of find someone you trust to look it over for you if you are not comfortable.

The other thing I worry about for you is, I hear there are really not any parts available for these trucks to repair with at this time. Down time waiting on parts could be months. Hopefully that has improved.
 
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Thanks Mr. B, I did drive it the 4 miles home. I think suspension's in pretty good condition. My biggest concern is with the bed/cab joint. I have no idea where the loads are there. I can't tell if the doors are out of line because of direct impact, or the damage at the bottom of the "frame "rail. The 12 ga. fender of the landscape trailer cut from the rear wheel forward, with some pretty significant metal moved around just forward of the wheel.
 

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Good to hear. When the wife brings ours home in an hour or two I'll take a look at that corner where the bed panel meets the cab. I'm guessing you have nothing to worry about though.

Post up as your journey continues with repairs or replacement parts.
 

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Always tricky to tell from pix, but looks mostly like sheet metal damage to me. Definitely want to check close at the side sill there in the rear, but it sure appears to have just scraped over. The G2 uses bolt on "fenders" for the rear quarters, so they are as easy to swap as the front fenders. Certainly need both door assemblies as well. Barring any hidden damage, really doesn't look so bad, from a structural standpoint.

Of course, it sucks 'cuz it's your brand new truck. :frown:
 
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If you look at picture 2 at the cab corner the couple of inches just behind the rear door you can tell it is poking out the furthest from the damage.

That cab corner has a lot of structure into it. There is a big box under there where the rear control arms come to. Basically if you study your pictures it's just a lot of sheet metal being pushed in around that area.

My personal opinion is you are fine to drive that thing as long as the steering wheel felt normal on your drive home.
 

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Sorry that you have to deal with this. It's a shame that this happened on such a new truck but most importantly no one was hurt. If you have any doubts don't drive any more until insurance determines which path to take. Hopefully, it's just some panels and nothing structural.
 

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Depending on the state where you reside you may be entitled to diminished value on your truck and since the other party is at fault their insurance company may be on the hook to pay you money over and above the actual damage to the truck. Call your insurance company and ask them if they have an independent appraiser that can write a written report to determine the value before and after the accident. Bear in mind that the damages will "probably" be submitted to carfax thus lowering the value of your truck after the accident. If you're lucky the responsible party's insurance company may use the same firm your insurance carrier recommends but if you have to spend a few bucks to obtain your own independent appraisal it will be worth it. Check out "diminished value" on the internet but I wouldn't necessarily recommend using any of those firms without consulting with your own insurance carrier. Good luck!
 

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If you look at the other side of the truck, how are the door shut lines? How about the hood? Are they even or variable?
I expect that your truck will need to be pulled straight on a frame machine. But honestly it's not possible to tell how much damage we haven't seen yet.
 

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I could be wrong but it seems like everyone is analyzing this as a truck, it is unibody. As far as I know the RL isn't pieces placed on a frame, it is more like a car. I would cry every time I got in but I don't see any reason why it is structurally compromised. Then again I get my cars to the body shop the day of to get a look over to make sure I didn't miss anything.
 

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One payment into the new truck... Friday night, a negligent person towing a landscape trailer tried to make a right hand on ramp from the left lane. What do we know about the structural integrity at the cab-bed joint? The outside side of the bed is pulled away far enough to put my hand between them. Driver's door is pulled out at the top and the latch is now almost an inch below the striker. I'm not driving it for fear of having catastrophic frame damage.

No one physically hurt. No question who was at fault. Have been biting my nails all weekend because no one is open to get the process going.
From photos it looks like no structural damages and drive train damages (some mounting brackets to mount panels may be deformed and need to be replaced and re-welded). Make sure it's Honda's body shop or Honda certified one if they don't have body shop in your area.

Get a rental from other driver's insurance (if you haven't contact them, call them (not your insurance) and file a claim).

Your both doors, front bump, panels, front wheel and tire, rear tire (maybe), mirror, headlight assembly (maybe) and moldings, etc will all be replaced. Cost could be $10k. So takes lots of photos along the way and prepare for Diminished Value claim.
 

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*Very* sorry to hear 'bout your RL... It *does* look mostly cosmetic to me -- since it seems to be glancing as opposed to impact...
I *would* heed Paul Mitchell's advice, above, in regard to a Diminished Value claim. If you live in a state where DV is applicable (your profile doesn't say), don't attempt to do it yourself. I've been there twice, and considering how new your truck is, and the MSRP, you're probably looking at better than $4k over and above damages, from a Diminished Value claim (that's tax free, and goes directly into your pocket -- consider it inconvenience pay).

If you need the name of a company that handles those claims (again, depending on what state you're in), feel free to PM me. They do a fabulous job, and they're well worth the $200-$300 typical fee.
 
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...Make sure it's Honda's body shop or Honda certified one if they don't have body shop in your area...
JamesW, what is the value of the Honda certification, particularly in the situation where I'd have to trade off using a known/trusted shop in order to find a Honda certified one?

Thanks to all for the support and feedback. I'm in NH and have State Farm for myself. Car went to the shop this afternoon and State Farm is on board. They've already logged the request for DV assessment and a note on my tweaked back. The other party is from Mass and we've got a little more wrangling to get his insurance co on board. Fortunately I had a friend who was traveling that let me use his truck for a couple of days so I could square away rentals, etc. without major hassle. Will let you all know when the body shop comes back with an assessment.
 

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JamesW, what is the value of the Honda certification, particularly in the situation where I'd have to trade off using a known/trusted shop in order to find a Honda certified one?

Thanks to all for the support and feedback. I'm in NH and have State Farm for myself. Car went to the shop this afternoon and State Farm is on board. They've already logged the request for DV assessment and a note on my tweaked back. The other party is from Mass and we've got a little more wrangling to get his insurance co on board. Fortunately I had a friend who was traveling that let me use his truck for a couple of days so I could square away rentals, etc. without major hassle. Will let you all know when the body shop comes back with an assessment.
I'm betting it will be in the 15K-18K range based on what my little accident cost. I only had left front fog Lt, left turn LT, Grille, Bumper cover, and upper grille cover and it was 3K. I have a BE and the special black chrome grille part was $853.00
 

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I could be wrong but it seems like everyone is analyzing this as a truck
Not the case here at all. I've been working on cars my whole life. Never saying I know it all, but I know enough.

Realistically the kind of collision the OPs vehicle experienced it wouldn't matter anyways. It's pretty much all sheetmetal damage.

I will be very interested to see that the body shop comes up with as far as how far the truck is out of spec if at all.
 

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Sucks for you having to deal with all the BS. The main thing is you were not hurt the RL did its job keeping you safe !


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