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Discussion Starter #1
I'm thinking about building a new sub box for under the rear seat, has anyone else done this?

What are the maximum dimensions of the box that the space allows?
I found some pictures and stuff online, and it looks like a flat front, sloped back, and about 9-10" of height.

I'm putting a JL Audio 8W7 in it, so it needs some air volume, but the length can be just about as long as needed.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Behind the seat would never work with a 8W7, it is a beefy sub that needs air to work.

I've seen that under seat box in the link............what I'm looking to make, but I need a little more height. I'd like to get 9" of height at least, so I'm going to have to do some templates to see if it will work or not.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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If you look on eBay, there are several pre-fab options for 10" and 12" enclosures for single or dual subs. You should be able to get somewhat of a decent idea from their dimensions what will and will not fit. What it comes down to is how you want that 8W7 to fire. If you have a good quality sub grill to put on the front of it, you could fire it forward to get the mounting depth you want while still being able to fit it in the usable height. If you fire it up or down, you're going to limit the height allowance of the enclosure. With a top mounting depth of nearly 7", you're going to be VERY tight if you attempt to put it in an up- or down-firing enclosure. You likely won't have a choice but to make some cardboard mockups of the enclosure to see what you can make work. It's most certainly sounding like a fun project. For the weight and power of that sub, I'd recommend using 3/4" MDF or marine ply for the main enclosure and most certainly at least one internal brace. Are you thinking sealed or ported?
 

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I have had twin JLs in the past in my accord and in the RL it runs a single shallow RF. IMO, its deep enough base and volume in the cabin. Best part is, the box fits behind the rear seats. The truck rattles (from outside) and gets pretty darn deafening inside when I reach 50%. How loud do you guys roll???? :frown::nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My truck doesn't rattle at all. I have my sub playing from 120hz down, and my door speakers from 100hz up.

I currently have the 8W7 in a custom sealed wedge box behind my drivers seat, and it works and sounds great........it would be nice to have it tucked under the rear seat.

I am planning on putting the box under the passenger side rear seat, with the sub on the end facing the middle of the truck. The hole for the sub is 6.94", and to allow for space around it I would like it to be 9" tall at least. With the excursion of the W7, there is no grille that works with it. You have to use the JL aluminum bars that are designed for the W7, but they don't look great in my opinion.

I have a bunch of scrap pieces of 3/4" MDF from my other box, so I'm going to use them to make a frame to see how it will fit under the seat and adjust it to the max dimensions.
 

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That's a very good idea to have it facing that way - basically towards the driver's rear door. It's hidden and protected. If the cutout is at 7", the minimum outside height of the enclosure would be 8.5" to account for the top and bottom MDF thickness. It will be a bit tight, but I think you'll be able to make it work. You may have to push the sub out towards the front of the seat to get that much clearance, but it shouldn't be an issue. I'll be curious to see your final dimensions and the finished product. I have a shallow 10" in the stock location behind the rear seat in a sealed enclosure that I made. It provides clean, crisp, musical bass that satisfies me. The only problem I have is the very few times that I really want to turn it up loud. It just doesn't have the oomph to hit hard on the really low frequencies. It's simply a product of the design of the sub (lower excursion) and the relatively small volume of the enclosure. I've thought many times about doing something different with a different sub, but it's WAY down there on the "to-do" list of life.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have thought about going with the JL Stealthbox for the truck, it uses a 10" W3 sub. But, once you experience a W7 sub it's hard to downgrade. And the $600 to $700 price tag is another thing holding me back, when I can build a box for just about nothing.

I'm going to play around with it this weekend and see what kind of dimensions I can pull out of it.............as long as I can come up with the .94 cubes needed and have room to mount the sub, it will be a go.
 

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^^ That would be like going from a Ferrari F12 to a Lexus RC-F. You're still getting a great product, but it's nowhere near what the other one is. As long as you have solid, strong power feeding that W7, you will have an amazing setup. I built a system in a buddy's car several years ago using two older model W6V2 12's. It was painfully loud, but had no distortion. Pure audio insanity. I think I lost a certain percentage of my hearing when tuning it. Nonetheless, don't stray from that W7. It's way too good not to use. Looking forward to seeing the project.
 

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250/1 on a w7? That sub will laugh at that amp.
 

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You obviously have no clue what you are talking about.
Who are you,to start with?
250 watts on a w7? It will push it....but will like more.
And how do you know? Ive been into car audio since the early 80s...and have worked at a few shops.

Whatever.
 

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I have had twin JLs in the past in my accord and in the RL it runs a single shallow RF. IMO, its deep enough base and volume in the cabin. Best part is, the box fits behind the rear seats. The truck rattles (from outside) and gets pretty darn deafening inside when I reach 50%. How loud do you guys roll???? :frown::nerd:
Which RF sub do you have behind seat in ridgeline?
 

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JL always seems to accurately rate their amps for power delivery unlike most of the other cheapo "1000 watt" amps. If you put the 250/1 up against that 1000 watt Lanzar amp, the JL will blow it out of the water. The 250/1 is more than enough to push that 8W7. Could it take more? Absolutely it could, but it's all in the ear of the beholder. No point in getting all huffy about equipment choice. If it suits the OP's ultimate goal - whether that's SPL or SQ - then who are we to judge?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Exactly, the 8W7 is rated to 500w max with 250w being the optimum. The Slash 250/1 is a true 250/1, and is the recommended amp for the 8W7 as stated in the owners manual.

Yes it can take more, but why push it and blow a $500 speaker for minimal gains.

10W7 likes the 500/1
12W7 and 13W7 both like the 1000/1


I never did play with the box this weekend, too nice out to spend it cutting wood and making a mess. Maybe next weekend.
 

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^^ Couldn't agree more. JL designs their amps and subs to be paired together in tandem. The specifications and build parts are tailored to get the safest and most efficient use out of each product. The problem with using another manufacturer's amp is you don't know exactly how it acts at certain power levels and what kind of power it's ACTUALLY putting out. Since JL does all of their testing with both products considered, it gives a greater peace of mind. I guess it's sort of like the age-old discussion here about using the OEM DW-1 transmission fluid as opposed to a "universal" type fluid that states it will work with Honda transmissions. Would you not rather have the fluid with which the transmission was designed to work?

So, maineuc, don't second guess using the 250/1. It will be more than enough. By the way, I have family in South Portland. Maine is an absolutely beautiful state. We will likely make a trip up next summer for some lobster rolls and Scratch Bakery cookies. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So, maineuc, don't second guess using the 250/1. It will be more than enough. By the way, I have family in South Portland. Maine is an absolutely beautiful state. We will likely make a trip up next summer for some lobster rolls and Scratch Bakery cookies. :)
No second guessing here, I've been using this combo for the past 6 months with great results. Most people can't believe it's only an 8" sub, and when they see it they just can't stop watching it in action.
 

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Ok, I have been thinking about putting a 8W7 in my Ridgeline or talk to a few friends of mine that have a 8W6 and see if they might want a trade. I am thinking about glassing my sub box. It will just need to be very rigid to sound right. My front Hertz components are being powered by a bridged JL 300/4 and my rear Hertz Coax are running from another bridged 300/4. I have a 500/1 to Power the subwoofer so yes I am Audio crazy. Lol. I am just wondering if my alternator will keep up. Lol
 
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