Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Seeing some nice prefab on ebay....
Called around...about 150 and up.
Will the custom one sound better...some of the prefabbes have an amp rack in the middle too.
Nice prefab,no rack for 93 sbipped,next one is 135,then 160.
Sub thump wants close to 200 shipped.
Thanks in advance,just don't have a lot of money to waste on this stuff.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
10,048 Posts
From what I've experienced in the past, the pre-fab sealed enclosures found on eBay are perfectly fine for a no-nonsense solution. They are pretty well constructed for what they are, but they have their limitations. Most don't have much, if any, internal bracing for rigidity if you have even remotely powerful subs. Secondly, no two subwoofers are alike. Each have different parameters and construction and each works best in a sealed or vented enclosure of a specific size (sealed) or of a specific size with specific port diameters and lengths (vented). The main idea is to build an enclosure to fit a sub - not finding a sub to fit in an enclosure.

However, if you're budget-minded (which it sounds like you are), do a little research into the specific enclosure you're considering. It is likely a sealed enclosure, so find out the internal volume of it. Then, start searching for a sub whose recommended sealed volume matches as closely to that enclosure as possible. Crutchfield is a great place to do some research. Parts-Express.com will also have several lesser-known subs that would fit the bill with great customer service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've been around car audio for a long time and know a custom one is better,3/4 mdf and all.
Just was wondering about the quality and if they are worth it.
I have 2 polk 10s,and it's finding the right mounting depth as these have a vented pole piece.
 

·
Premium Member
2010 RT - Bali Blue
Joined
·
4,113 Posts
It is amazing how many new threads are started with the same approach of a subwoofer box. Everyone's opinion is going to be based on their specific desire, totally independent of your needs. I am sure you are not building a show stopper, and if you are, you are in the wrong place asking questions. Please do not take this that I am being insensitive, but its just amazing how much time and energy everyone spends on the same topic when a simple search would have yielded more than two dozen threads.

I would say go with a prefab. MTX and Rockford Fosgate, as far as I know, make ones that go under the seat and behind the rear seat respectively. I will not be willing to dump a grand into an audio system on this car, so custom is out of the question. All this depends on how you want to use the rear space. Do you plan to fold the seats up and use that space, or you will never fold the seats and want to do custom on the bottom. I am not driving around in a half a 300K dollar Maybach and thus I dont need to hear every single instrument distinctly.

Heck you can be this guy (
) and put the subs in the trunk.

this is another alternative. One of the SEMA show cars from a decade ago.
 

·
Registered
2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
Joined
·
10,048 Posts
I've been around car audio for a long time and know a custom one is better,3/4 mdf and all.
Just was wondering about the quality and if they are worth it.
I have 2 polk 10s,and it's finding the right mounting depth as these have a vented pole piece.
If you have even minor woodworking skills, you can build an enclosure that is far superior for far less than what you can buy one on eBay. One sheet of 3/4" MDF is less than $40, some wood screws, wood glue and silicone sealant might be another $20 and a roll of automotive carpet can be found for less than $20. It's the time invested that really is the issue. Yes, as long as you already have the tools, you'll have several hours wrapped up in it, but you'll have a much better product. If you don't want to mess with any of that, a pre-fab enclosure will work just fine.

Depending on the model of Polk sub, you'll only need an inch or so between the rear of the sub and the enclosure wall for proper air circulation. I doubt the top mounting depth would be more than 5" to 6" or so.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top