I started by dropping the subframe down an inch. However, this was not enough to allow removal without further disassembly. So in order to remove and install the sway bar I removed the driver side lower control arm (LCA) which enabled me to snake the bar out the side. It may not be necessary to lower the subframe once you have the LCA out of the way. I would start with removing the driver side LCA and see if you can snake the bar out. Also while I removed the entire LCA you may be able to leave the balljoint attached and swing the LCA out of the way to allow the swaybar to be taken out.
The rear sway bar needs a few minor tweaks to fit.
The end link holes are slightly undersized. A quick zip with a carbide bit and a die grinder will remove a bit of the powder coat in the hole and a small amount of metal. A hand file will work too but will take a little more effort.
The U shaped brackets needed about an 1/16" to 1/8" increase in the length of the oval where the mounting bolts fit. (See image marked in red) I suspect some may fit without alteration but the bolts are so close to the extreme end of the tolerance that it makes it more difficult to bolt in without the risk or cross-threading the mounting bolts.
Lastly be sure to use a PTFE type grease on the matting surface of the bushing before clipping them onto the bar. This will eliminate any squeaking. Super Lube found at Harbor Freight work well for this.