So I accidentally put the jumper cables backwards into my battery terminals for like a second and I saw some sparks coming out. Now my truck wont start all electrical works, radio, lights, cluster, etc but car wont even crank. Checked fuses and theyre not blown, i dont know about relays i cant tell. Please help.:frown:
Switched jumper cables now truck wont start
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The battery is fairly new, my truck has been sitting out there for about 6 months so once in a while i turn it on to warm it up, sometimes i have to jump start it when its sat for long, but it will always start. I checked the terminals and they had corrosion on it, i went to autozone and got some new terminals, i swapped my dads battery (ford ranger has the same battery ) and nothing, tried hooking up correctly and nothing. I still get power but when i turn the key to start it does nothing not even a sound. So i dont know what else to do as of now because i want to register my truck so i can start using it. thanks
You may have blown a fuse. Look up part # Honda 38231‑SFE‑J01 Fuse a (120A/40A). If it is this fuse consider doing the idle learn procedure and reset the grade logic.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/599031-post12.html
http://www.hondapartsoverstock.com/...ml?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/599031-post12.html
http://www.hondapartsoverstock.com/...ml?partner=googlebase_adwords&kwd=&origin=pla
you know what i was able to start my rl just now, it was weird because the battery had low power so i jump started again and it turn on just fine :surprise: thanks for the help anyway.
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The short probably drained it more. Leaving batteries without use for weeks weakens the batteries, it should be started for at least 20 mins if not driven, and maybe at least 2 times a week.
A smart battery charger, is good to have if it can not be driven, it will prevent sulfating and extend the battery life.
Heli, you got a link or steps to do a grade logic reset ?
A smart battery charger, is good to have if it can not be driven, it will prevent sulfating and extend the battery life.
Heli, you got a link or steps to do a grade logic reset ?
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1,817 Posts
Allowing a maintenance free lead acid battery to drop below ~11VDC should be avoided whenever possible. It doesn't matter how old or new, all batteries self discharge, and there is small "keep alive" current drawn by the ECM - so "sitting" is very bad.
If the truck is be un-driven for long periods, a (relatively) inexpensive solar charger is a great idea. It would be most effective to start with the battery at a known charge level, then leave a solar charger connected.
BUT:
Given the overall negative affects of a vehicle not being driven on a semi regular basis. The best way to protect any from a slow decaying death is to start and drive it on a weekly basis.
If the truck is be un-driven for long periods, a (relatively) inexpensive solar charger is a great idea. It would be most effective to start with the battery at a known charge level, then leave a solar charger connected.
BUT:
Given the overall negative affects of a vehicle not being driven on a semi regular basis. The best way to protect any from a slow decaying death is to start and drive it on a weekly basis.
I don't have the Grade Logic reset steps. I remember someone saying they had it done in the past, maybe it was at the dealer. I wonder if its just pre-programmed software in the PCM?
The Idle Learn Procedure is well documented here...
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...-pdi-idle-learn-pattern-learn-procedures.html
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