Synthetic Oil
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There has been quite a bit of talk concerning oil change times and type of oil to use in the Ridgeline. A search should bring up several threads. I plan on going 5,000 miles or until HAL tells me to change, whichever comes first. Then, I will use dino oil for my first oil change as specified in the manual (5w20).
That should take me to the 10,000 mile mark at which point I will use Mobil 1 Synthetic from then on. I use it in my lawn tractor and never had a problem so I see no reason why I should not use it in the Ridge. I want to go 10,000 with regular oil because synthetic is so good at lubrication that it may not get all the shavings and stuff that is required in a new engine; nor would it seat the rings and pistons properly (at least this is what I have heard but don't know it to be a fact). Then, when everything is "broken in", going to synthetic should provide for the best lubrication available - again, so I've heard.
There is no prohibition to synthetics in the manual that I saw, therefore, no warranty issues as long as it can be shown the oil in there is the same weight as required in the Honda manual (and you keep records and documentation of your oil changes).
Some people have different ideas about oil weight and intervals and type of oil; let your experience and conscious guide you. I'm sure that if you follow HAL and use 5w20 oil, synthetic or otherwise, from any brand name company, you will probably have trouble free service for many, many thousands of miles. I just feel better with Mobile 1 synthetic thats all.
That should take me to the 10,000 mile mark at which point I will use Mobil 1 Synthetic from then on. I use it in my lawn tractor and never had a problem so I see no reason why I should not use it in the Ridge. I want to go 10,000 with regular oil because synthetic is so good at lubrication that it may not get all the shavings and stuff that is required in a new engine; nor would it seat the rings and pistons properly (at least this is what I have heard but don't know it to be a fact). Then, when everything is "broken in", going to synthetic should provide for the best lubrication available - again, so I've heard.
There is no prohibition to synthetics in the manual that I saw, therefore, no warranty issues as long as it can be shown the oil in there is the same weight as required in the Honda manual (and you keep records and documentation of your oil changes).
Some people have different ideas about oil weight and intervals and type of oil; let your experience and conscious guide you. I'm sure that if you follow HAL and use 5w20 oil, synthetic or otherwise, from any brand name company, you will probably have trouble free service for many, many thousands of miles. I just feel better with Mobile 1 synthetic thats all.
rtbaron said:
Depends... oil changes are very personal. Some people feel good changing it every 3000 miles, some feel ok going 5000, yet others feel ok going 10k. If you are one of those 3000 mile people, there is no reason to go synthetic. See oil will last 3000 miles. Infact if you look at the RSX owners manual, they even tell you it's ok to go 5000+ ok regular oil under their "severe" schedule. I used to do oil analysis on my spent oil to see what they were like. On my 98 Maxima, I have taken Mobil 1 synthetic to 10k mile change intervals and the analysis came back fine. Then I've taken Castro GTX to 5,000 miles and the analysis was fine as well. So doing some math, it was cheaper to stay with non synthetic castro.
I have a saying: "Changing oil every 3000 miles is a waste of money". This is very true on modern cars. BUT - you have to do what you feel comfortable with.
I am leaning toward using Mobile one. I am not sure about relying on HAL though. I have 1200 miles on my Ridgeline and HAL is still at 90% so unless HAL is sleeping my first oil change would be at 10K. I think that is too long with dino in it.
I am keeping an eye on HAL to see when he changes.
I am keeping an eye on HAL to see when he changes.
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I just had a lengthy conversation with a customer of ours who bought a Ridgeline and was concerned about the "wind" noise. After I told him of this sight and that I too was a Ridgline owner, we went into great depth of the vehicle and the pros and cons. One thing he mentioned was the fact that he uses 5W20 Valvoline Premium. He said he is on the road alot and drives all over the country. He purchased his vehicle from us on the 31st of May and has already changed the oil 3 times. He said he gets about 20-21 mpg. He was told to break in the engine with highway miles and an oil change every 1K miles for the first 3K. Sounds like a good plan.
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Uh oh....I guess I should read the manual and quote it to him. But now it's too late for him.jeffiam said:no, no no........the oil change 3 times in the first 3000 is not a good idea!!
the manual specifically states NOT to change the breakin oil before its first
scheduled change.
Thanks jeffiam.
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Don't really know if I'll get any better gas mileage with synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W20) but do know that I won't be sending as much money overseas using synthetic by buying dino oil...lol (or maybe not???) And by the way, thanks for the warning about the spam guy...also put my first person from this room on "ignor".
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I would say no. If there was even a slight difference in friction between conventional and synthetic oils you would see that difference in engine wear and not fuel mileage. If there was a big enough difference in friction to measure fuel mileage then there would be huge wear differences between the oils and we know that's not the case.bellteck said:
Why use synthetic oils? Under extreme conditions they are far superior to conventional oils. That's why I use synthetic oil. That one time I end up in a traffic jam at 100+ degrees it will make a difference. Or if I happen to break a radiator hose and the engine overheats before I know it it will make a huge difference.
The Consumer Reports oil test of a few years ago proved that under NORMAL circumstances there's no difference in a 3000 mile oil change and a 7500 mile oil change. No difference between dino and synthetic oil. Since that multi-million mile test fuels have gotten cleaner, and oil has gotten better.
Synthetic oil is for those of us that want that extra protection in the event we exceed "normal" driving conditions.
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Great write up CSI, I never have used synthetic oil but my brother used to in his eagle talon awd turbo. I may think about using it in summer and winter or if planning a vacation trip in the ridge, the extra protection does sound worth it for that reason alone.
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I would absolutely use synthetic oil in any turbocharged engine! The rules change with the turbo.bellteck said:Great write up CSI, I never have used synthetic oil but my brother used to in his eagle talon awd turbo. I may think about using it in summer and winter or if planning a vacation trip in the ridge, the extra protection does sound worth it for that reason alone.
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There are two kinds of turbos in common use. The older oil cooled (danger danger danger) and the newer oil/water cooled turbo. Both get extremely hot and are capable of subjecting the engine oil to temperatures that exceed the coking threshold. The result is a little bit of burned up oil every time you shut down a hot engine. Good synthetic oils are capable or withstanding much higher temperatures before coking.
If you have a turbo you need to run a good Group IV synthetic oil. Not the pretend Group III synthetic wannabe false advertisers!
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Hope you're not serious!SSquire said:
Another person that bases all his conclusions on "I've done it many times and never had a problem". What a total bunch of BS.
You think Motoman has the slightest understanding of the thermodynamics of a new engine vs one that's even a few weeks old?
You think Motoman understand the effect of cylinder pressures have on unseated piston rings?
Just some kid trying to make a name for himself. There are so many things wrong with his assumptions that it would take a week to address each one of them.
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