Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Registered
Joined
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Wanted to post details on a mod I did to take the bed rail from a Tacoma and fit it to my 2G RL. Saw a few people just went with a strut channel, but I wanted to get something that would look a bit more like OEM. Also, I bought the cleats first and after doing a bit of digging found out that the Tacoma channel has recessed portions that lock the cleat in place. Brought the cleats to local Home Depot and tested on a standard strut channel. Without the recessed portions the cleats would slip quite a bit and pretty much be useless.

Parts:
1. Short bed bedrail for Tacoma. Part #: PT278-35100-SB. Toyota doesn't list the dimensions, but from my research you can get any iteration (PT278-35100 then -SB, -LB or -BH). They're all the same depth and width just different lengths. SB is the shortest meaning the least amount to cut off. You can get them online but I just went to a local Toyota dealership to get it faster. Paid 43 for each one (have to buy individually, so ~90 total) . At my local Toyota dealership the -SB part was the cheapest.
Example link: https://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/product/bed-rail-pt278-35100-sb-2005-tacoma-short-bed-double/

2. 6xM6 25mm bolts. Thankfully my friend had a metric ratchet set, but if you don't have one I'd get either a phillips/torx/hex head bolt since the channel is pretty narrow.

3. 6x 1/4" fender washers. M6 is basically 1/4", so I just got 1/4" since they were much easier to find at local hardware store.

4. Tacoma bed cleats. Normally $30 a piece. Got a set of 4 for $35 on ebay.
Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Tacoma-Striker-Luggage-Truck-Bed-Rail-Tie-Down-4-New-OEM-58461-04020-00-/163638875345?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0

Directions:
1. Space on side of bed is approx 48", rail is 49". Cut off about 1.25" inches off of the rail using a power saw. Rail has one side that just has a large cutout for rail cap, and other with the cutout and a small square cutout. Cut between the square and the large cutout. I'll try to get a picture of this to show what I'm talking about. Basically just didn't want to end the cut in the large opening and have something that things could get caught on.

2. Back out m6 torx bolts from side of bed. These are drilled in very tight out of the factory. Had to get a vice grip to get a few out and stripped about half of the bolt heads in the process. Oh well.

3. Drill out 3 new holes in the rail using a standard power drill. Holes are about 22" apart, just eyeballed, marked with metallic sharpie, and drilled slightly larger hole than needed to allow for some error.

4. Put cleats on first since the side wall is recessed and would be difficult to do after mounting.

5. Mount rail using m6 bolts (put fender washer within rail so that it keeps the bolt from walking within the hole).

Right now I'm really happy with the 4 extra (and movable) tie downs. My ultimate end goal with this is to make a sliding cargo bar, but that'll be phase 2 (really tired of the cheap racheting cargo bar that I got a while ago, it's a PITA to set up and I'm worried I'll accidentally damage the bed one of these times from the tension). Also, opens up tons of accessory options.

Happy to provide more info/pics if needed. (Top bar in photo is the mounting rail/channel for my extang encore tonneau cover which uses the larger T50 bolts from the tie downs on the ends of the bed)
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
56 Posts
This is an awesome idea, @grl94! Thanks for sharing!
 

Registered
Joined
145 Posts
Nice! Great idea and reasonably priced.
Just want to make sure I understand something: The screws with the fender washers that are inside the rail channel, these go into threaded holes that are already in the RL bed sides, right? No new holes drilled in the RL body? (I don't yet have a RL so that might be part of my confusion in visualizing it).

On the future sliding cargo bar/gate, there's a company who makes a bed rail bracket that, at the top, goes into the Tacoma's rail and slides along its length, and this seems adaptable for a cargo gate (which you'd have to build or buy separately). Here's a link: https://www.ragofabrication.com/collections/3rd-gen-tacoma/products/toyota-bed-rail-modular-accessory-mount?variant=6847393988660 It's kind of pricey, but I bet if you designed and had someone fab such a thing as a 1-off part, it would probably cost that much or more. Anyway, just thought I'd point it out.
 

Registered
Joined
145 Posts
This is blasphemy, Taco parts on a Ridgeline...
RL volumes are just too low for aftermarket parts to be attractive business proposition for most things. There are a lot of Tacoma and Colorado/Canyon aftermarket accessories, and many of them could be adaptable. I personally wouldn't have any issue with using them unless they had the Tacoma or Colorado name engraved in them.
 

Premium Member
Joined
537 Posts
RL volumes are just too low for aftermarket parts to be attractive business proposition for most things. There are a lot of Tacoma and Colorado/Canyon aftermarket accessories, and many of them could be adaptable. I personally wouldn't have any issue with using them unless they had the Tacoma or Colorado name engraved in them.
Just being sarcastic.
 

Registered
Joined
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thanks everyone! I'll post some more once I have a solution for the cargo bar. There are some stock options for a cargo divider from Toyota/marketed for Toyota but they're all $200+ from what I can tell. My initial thinking is to try to make something myself using something like this (https://www.amazon.com/GZSJY-T-Slot-Tightening-Screw-Toyota/dp/B07KFBS4SM), a corner bracket and a cut-to-fit strut channel. I don't need something super heavy duty, just need to keep boxes/bags from sliding around.

@Camino, correct. I just picked up the 3 existing holes where the T30 torx bolts were (I believe they hold the bed-liner in place). No drilling into the bed required (just into the rail). Thanks for the part suggestion!

I feel the average Tacoma owner mod's the hell out of it, so actually having the Toyota part in there will open up a ton of options for accessories for sure.
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Thanks OP for posting this. I got my rails from Toyota for $53 each with tax. Does anyone have any tips on how to get the m6 torx bolts out of the side of the truck bed without stripping them? The 3 on the left side came out with no problem. The 3 on the right side laugh at me.
 

Registered
Joined
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The first time that I tried to take them out I had to use a set of locking vice grip pliers around the bolt head. Then my friend got an impact driver with the torx bit and that was way easier.
 

Premium Member
Joined
972 Posts
Fortunately, mine came right out without any drama when installing my SoftTopper. Make sure you are using the correct Torx bit.
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
I ended up using an impact drill. Broke off the first torx bit. Back to Lowe鈥檚 for 鈥渋mpact rated鈥 bits. One impact drill removed two of the three remaining bolts. Then after banging with a hammer and with the use of another impact drill, it finally broke loose. I鈥檓 telling ya, those were really in there! Now I鈥檝e forgotten why I was taking them out..... :smile:
 

Registered
Joined
45 Posts
Back out m6 torx bolts from side of bed. These are drilled in very tight out of the factory.
This is a great idea, thanks. Any idea what these bolts are bolted into? Any concerns with pulling them out from the bed if the cargo is too heavy? I think the cleats are only rated for like 250-300lbs. I would just hate to pull the whole bed apart when tieing something down? Is there any reinforcement behind those bed bolts?
 

Premium Member
Joined
2,793 Posts
This is a great idea, thanks. Any idea what these bolts are bolted into? Any concerns with pulling them out from the bed if the cargo is too heavy? I think the cleats are only rated for like 250-300lbs. I would just hate to pull the whole bed apart when tieing something down? Is there any reinforcement behind those bed bolts?
300lbs is a lot of load mind you. As long as your cargo is cinched down properly, you won't have any movement and thus eliminate/limit the impact loading due to a shifting cargo.

As fast as the holes for those cleats, well they go into and are part of the unit body structure. The hole is deep enough that the bolt goes in and does not peek out the back.
 

Registered
Joined
45 Posts
Most of the bed accessories seem to mount to the tie down locations. I am curious as to how much lateral force those mounting point will take, but do agree with the need to cinch it correctly to eliminate shifting.

396120
 

Registered
Joined
300 Posts
I want to do this mod, when ever I have my peragon cover opened and a pallet loaded already, it is impossible to find the rear oem tie down. This would solved my problem.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top