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Discussion Starter #1
Been happening for about a month now. I know its from the front end, I think it from the steering system. The thump is only one volume, sounds like someone hitting a piece of cast iron with a rubber mallet. Hitting pot holes or going over bumps does not seem to change it. Its seems to be effected by turning the steering. Its also nothing I can feel from the steering or in my feet.

I'm perplexed at what it is, I just know its bugging the hell out of me. Its going in Friday for an oil change and tire rotation (my local place). I'll be able to climb under the truck when its on the lift. What should I look for?

Thanks
 

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sounds like a strut issue.
 

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Been happening for about a month now. I know its from the front end, I think it from the steering system. The thump is only one volume, sounds like someone hitting a piece of cast iron with a rubber mallet. Hitting pot holes or going over bumps does not seem to change it. Its seems to be effected by turning the steering. Its also nothing I can feel from the steering or in my feet.

I'm perplexed at what it is, I just know its bugging the hell out of me. Its going in Friday for an oil change and tire rotation (my local place). I'll be able to climb under the truck when its on the lift. What should I look for?

Thanks
I would suspect end links (very common problem) or sway bar bushings (also fairly common); both are a much less expensive fix than shocks (struts).
 

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I wonder if it's the bump stops on the struts? Someone posted a how-to on that recently, but I don't have the thread at hand.
 

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That's the one! Thanks Carsmak.
 

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I wonder if it's the bump stops on the struts? Someone posted a how-to on that recently, but I don't have the thread at hand.
I believe this is the thread your referring to.

BUMP STOP TSB INFO HERE
That's the one! Thanks Carsmak.
EDITED: Isn't that (bump stops) just in the rear (noise in the rear)? (DISREGARD THIS FADED POST)
No, it's not just a rear shock issue ..... bump stop problem does in fact effect front as well... see Speedlever's "tennis ball" references later on in this thread
 

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You are correct that the thread mentioned above is concerning rear strut bump stops. But the front struts have bump stops too.
 

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Understood.... I just didn't recall reading of anyone having bump-stop noise issues with the fronts. 'Doesn't mean it can't happen of course.

EDIT: In fact Speedlever provided good reference post (later in this thread) where front shock bump stop noise was diagnosed & corrected.
 

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Understood.... I just didn't recall reading of anyone having bump-stop noise issues with the fronts.
I think that's been reported before as sounding like tennis balls in a can rolling back and forth.
 

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I think that's been reported before as sounding like tennis balls in a can rolling back and forth.
Yeah, there were two posters (the "tennis ball" thread) who defined problems, but neither of them posted problem solved. This was only Nov 2015, so I don't expect much has changed for them by now.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/71-problems-issues/121721-2010-rts-clunk-front-end.html

Biggest question in my mind reading that was "where did you find a 2010 with only 17K miles on it?".... lol

....maybe sitting undriven (prior to his purchasing) contributed to his noise (dried / stiff rubber)??
 

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Yeah, there were two posters (the "tennis ball" thread) who defined problems, but neither of them posted problem solved. This was only Nov 2015, so I don't expect much has changed for them by now.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/71-problems-issues/121721-2010-rts-clunk-front-end.html

Biggest question in my mind reading that was "where did you find a 2010 with only 17K miles on it?".... lol

....maybe sitting undriven (prior to his purchasing) contributed to his noise (dried / stiff rubber)??
Actually, tennis ball in a cardboard box was the actual descriptor.

Here's one thread a quick search turned up:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...45019-tennis-ball-mystery-finally-solved.html
 

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Discussion Starter #15
FYI..........First thanks for everyones ideas. Turned out to be Front Sway Bar Link, both had play which was causing the knocking-thump sound. Replaced both of them and that did the trick. I was in the shop when my mechanic was taking them off. He a hell of a time with them. I meant to take a few photos but I forgot
 

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FYI..........First thanks for everyones ideas. Turned out to be Front Sway Bar Link, both had play which was causing the knocking-thump sound. Replaced both of them and that did the trick. I was in the shop when my mechanic was taking them off. He a hell of a time with them. I meant to take a few photos but I forgot
That's most often the case. Glad it was an easy find/fix for you. :)
 

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My 06 front has been thumping on bumps as long as I can remember, increasing with age (130k) tho not as loud as you describe, just dull thudding on rough ground. I found cracked control arm bushings and worn stabilizer bar bushings (main ones). Replaced both and relieved some noise but not all. Complained a few times to Honda service, but they say it's normal. BS!

But EUREKA! I recently discovered the chief source!! There is direct metal to metal frame contact between engine/trans cradle right at the control arm supports, on both sides, close to the subframe mount/isolators designed to insulate the cabin. Metal-to-metal contact here defeats the rubber subframe mounts and transmits noise and vibration directly into the cabin. The're the rear-bushing supports of both front arms. If the 06 is typical of all G1 thru '12, then lots of us must be plaque by this.

My fix: With the front on stands, wheels off, I put jacks (scissor or screw type for controlled descent) under both rear frame mounts below firewall and removed the bolts (2each side),.then loosened the front about an inch (3 bolts ea side) so the rear could tilt down without binding. Then I lowered the rear frame (w/ engine and trans) gradually, going side to side half an inch or so at a time until I had about 3" clearance. I then used a rotary tool to grind about a 1/4" recess in the corner of the frame at the point of contact. I also rounded the corresponding edge of the control arm mount for about 1/8" of daylight between the two when reinstalled. I also added a 1/16" thick hard rubber gasket to thicken (and dampen) the rubber sub-frame mount a bit. Voila! Thumping is gone. Rides smooth and quiet as a Bentley (after other insulation upgrades). Just need to double my HP!
 

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My fix: With the front on stands, wheels off, I put jacks (scissor or screw type for controlled descent) under both rear frame mounts below firewall and removed the bolts (2each side),.then loosened the front about an inch (3 bolts ea side) so the rear could tilt down without binding. Then I lowered the rear frame (w/ engine and trans) gradually, going side to side half an inch or so at a time until I had about 3" clearance. I then used a rotary tool to grind about a 1/4" recess in the corner of the frame at the point of contact. I also rounded the corresponding edge of the control arm mount for about 1/8" of daylight between the two when reinstalled. I also added a 1/16" thick hard rubber gasket to thicken (and dampen) the rubber sub-frame mount a bit. Voila! Thumping is gone. Rides smooth and quiet as a Bentley (after other insulation upgrades). Just need to double my HP!
I also have an 06 with similar thumping (though only/mostly on the passenger side — and it’s not the washer fluid reservoir) even after replacing the stabilizer bar links and the front stabilizer bar bushings. When getting my tires replaced, I was told that the control arm bushings needed replacing but the tire shop said that those worn out control arm bushings wouldn’t cause any thumping noises.

Your fix sounds pretty involved. How hard was it and how long did it take you? Any photos or diagrams of the metal on metal contact point?
 

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I also have an 06 with similar thumping (though only/mostly on the passenger side — and it’s not the washer fluid reservoir) even after replacing the stabilizer bar links and the front stabilizer bar bushings. When getting my tires replaced, I was told that the control arm bushings needed replacing but the tire shop said that those worn out control arm bushings wouldn’t cause any thumping noises.

Your fix sounds pretty involved. How hard was it and how long did it take you? Any photos or diagrams of the metal on metal contact point?
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I'll attach photos here if I can or you can PM me.

It took better than a day, but that includes replacing the rack and pinion steering assembly. Frankly, if I hadn't had to replace the leaking rack, I wouldn't have discovered the engine-frame/subframe interference. It's not a glaring conflict until you spot the dimple and its cause, then you realize the insulator is all but useless, and even the struts' absorption is compromised as bumps are partly sent directly into the cabin as well at the control arm pivot point.

It's an engineering flaw, made worse over time as the insulators are compressed and light contact hardens. You can see the original dent framed by blue tape pcs and the taped part of the (now lowered) control arm at point of contact. The second pic shows the frame corner with recess made with rotory-tool grindstone and a related rounding of the control arm bracket below. In addition to the frame mods, I also added rubber to the frame above the upper insulators, which are noticeably compressed compared to new ones in a vendor pic. My photo shows a large 1/16" rubber washer, but I've since added two more for 3/16" added lift. I cut these myself out of a sheet of 70-durometer rubber from Grainger, but you could use gasket material if.it's hard enough. I also added a fender washer and two rubber washers were the small stay/stiffener arm connects the engine frame to the cabin.

You can look up YouTube videos for rack and pinion replacement for RL, Pilot, or Odessey to see the procedure or reply here or via PM with questions.

I don't think a dealer will do this, because it's not in the manual and a frame mod, however minor, would be frowned upon by Honda engineers, out of reluctance to admit such a simple error as likely as any other reason. I do recall reading in the marketing for the Gen-2 RL that the subframe mounts had been redesigned for a quieter ride (no mention of eliminating metal-to-metal contact betw engine cradle and cabin subframe (D'OH!) RL frame diagram_1521090869001.jpg
 

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