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I recently purchased a 2007 Ridgeline. It needed the timing belt changed so we did that. Also changed water pump, tensioner, serpentine belt, spark plugs. No error codes when we first started it back up but about 20 miles later we have multiple error codes.

Codes in order are:
61 - low voltage
52 - anti lock brake pump relay
72 steering angle sensor
PO420 - O2 sensor catalytic converter

Had battery checked at O'Reilly's. Said battery, alternator, and starter all showed fine. Of course I've had them say a battery was good when it wasn't. No clue how old this battery is as I bought the truck used.

Cleared codes and within 20 miles all were back again.

Thoughts? Fuse relay?

TIA for your help. We had great help here for changing the timing belt.
 

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Bench tests for batteries are made to show a battery's state in a continuum of chemical deterioration (similar to "wearing" for a mechanical part). The tests will not reliably show faults that have intermittent symptoms. You'll have to swap out the battery and use a replacement for a few days before knowing whether the culprit is your battery. The battery is still the prime suspect.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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I'd have to vote for the battery as well. I'd say go buy a new one and don't turn in your old one (core charge) right then. Put in the new battery, drive it for a few days and see if the codes come back. If they do come back, you know it's not the battery. Return the new one and continue using your current one while trying to diagnose the root cause of your issue. If they stay away, take your core into the store and get your refund.
 

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If it's not the battery then I'd look for a faulty ground. In fact, I might look for that first.
Yes, and also a loose connector or broken wires in the general vicinity of where the work was done. I might also consider taking to whoever did the TB and play dumb and tell them they did something to mess up your truck and get them to try and diagnose it.
 

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Vapersecutor, where you are getting those codes from? DTCs follow the format P/B/C/U followed by 4 digits. For example, P0420 (not PO420) is valid. Some of the Ridgeline's systems can flash out codes with fewer digits. However, there is no code 72 related to the steering angle sensor. There is a code 27, which is generally a hardware failure of the sensor. The other codes you have listed have missing or inconsistent information as well. The best I can tell, you've got codes from seemingly unrelated systems. Generally, this is due to faulty ground path that serves multiple components. I agree that a ground or connector was damaged or not reinstalled correctly during the TB service.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Unfortunately we can't take to the TB folks and play dumb since we are the TB folks lol. The fact that we did the TB ourselves probably increases the chances that something didn't get connected properly. We'll go back over that and give a new battery a try. The battery is 3 1/2 years old so that's a likely culprit too in my opinion.

The codes were from a reader at O'Reilly's. Maybe he reversed the digits from 27 to 72?

I'll report back if we get it figured out.
 

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We're still not getting good information here. While the battery cannot be dismissed as a potential cause, I'm still questioning the value and validity of those codes you were given by O'Reilly. Code scanners used by auto parts stores are generic and work only on OBD II-compliant vehicles (those sold 1996 or later). They are not manufacturer-specific and don't communicate with any system on the vehicle except for the engine and transmission (powertrain - "P" codes). The steering angle sensor is NOT part of the powertrain. The ABS relay is NOT part of the powertrain. There is a very strong possibility that either the O'Reilly employee did not know what they were doing. P0420 often indicates an O2 sensor or catalytic converter problem. The other codes aren't valid. I'd suggest going to a Honda dealer or independent shop capable of reading Honda-specific codes. I'm wondering if the "low voltage" code (if such actually exists since the 2-digit number of "61" is not a valid ODB II code) is also O2 sensor/circuit related. Which "warning" lights are illuminated on the instrument panel (if any)?
 

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Fingers crossed. Hoping that the code just didn't reset itself when the battery was swapped out.
 

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I just had my 09 RTL TB/WP replaced at 102k and performed by a reputable shop that's been in business for over 30 years. Got a call from the mechanic that did the work that during test drive, it flashed a "low oil press" warning. I explained I never had any issues with that item. We both did some more research and found a TSB on the oil press switch. Ok, not much money to replace so I have one on the way. Today, I'm driving and no low oil press warning, but I get a "check emission system". Seems I am getting some random codes after this work. I did note that battery must have been disconnected as I had to plug in codes for radio and GPS. I recently (2 weeks ago) put in a new AGM Exide battery and checked the ground wires - look tight. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

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I just had my 09 RTL TB/WP replaced at 102k and performed by a reputable shop that's been in business for over 30 years. Got a call from the mechanic that did the work that during test drive, it flashed a "low oil press" warning. I explained I never had any issues with that item. We both did some more research and found a TSB on the oil press switch. Ok, not much money to replace so I have one on the way. Today, I'm driving and no low oil press warning, but I get a "check emission system". Seems I am getting some random codes after this work. I did note that battery must have been disconnected as I had to plug in codes for radio and GPS. I recently (2 weeks ago) put in a new AGM Exide battery and checked the ground wires - look tight. Any thoughts? Thanks!
It's possible that the emissions system light is unrelated and could be something as simple as a loose or worn out gas cap. I had the same warning a few years ago and just replaced the gas cap for good measure. The differences in the thickness of the sealing o-ring between the original one and the new one were very apparent. I haven't had an issue since then. You're at about the age and mileage that my truck was when I had the issue. I'd start with this cheap fix ($20 at the dealership or order from Amazon) and see if that helps.
 
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