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Discussion Starter #1
DONE!!! I did mine yesterday at 106,500 miles...

Man, what a long job. For a desk jockey, it was a great experience. I learned a lot and do NOT want to do that job again for a very long time. I will probably wait until 225K to do the next one.

The most valuable tool: The 3/8" flex head ratchet I bought Friday. Runner up- my 3/8" air ratchet. And I guess honorable mention goes to the http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796-Crankcase-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312159933&sr=8-1 Crankshaft bolt removal tool. Well worth the $36 it took to get it in my hands.

Anyway, this was the most in-depth mechanical work I've done on my own. All by myself, except when my wife held the crankshaft tool while I put the pressure on the 19mm socket to break it free and she helped get the drive belt back on at the end.

There's a LOT of BS in this job as far as the crap you have to do, remove, snake around, etc. I guess that's the deal with working on cars today. I guess there's a lot more room in this truck than some of the cars with the V6 engines, tho.

All in all, I'm pretty darn proud of myself. I hit some gotchyas...the worst was realizing the back camshaft had rolled off of TDC when I was threading the new timing belt on. It did it three more times.

I've still got to replace the spark plugs and open the valve covers up to check the valves (I don't think there's anything wrong with the clearance, but just might go through the exercise for the fun of it.

Was it worth the $500 savings? Yeah. I'd still be wondering if I could do it. Now I know. :act035::act035::act035:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh yeah...

I will say that the Honda V6 video from Eric is the Car Guy was a great help ($10), Looking through my Honda service manual about 800 times over the last year was a fair help, too. The video is on an Accord V6, so it is not exactly the same as the Ridgeline/Pilot/Van, but it is close enough to get by. That and the manual will get'er done.

The tools needed for the job*:

10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets- in both short (reg) and deep 3/8" drive.
19mm deep, 1/2" drive
3/8" extension- 1" or 2", 3", 6", 20"
1/2" extension- 20"+
12mm and 14mm ratcheting, flex head wrenches
Long pattern 14mm wrench
An offset 14mm wrench is helpful also
3/8" ratchet (Flex head is valuable)
1/2" breaker bars (2 needed)
Plastic trim retaining screw/clip removal tool
Deadblow or Ball Peen hammer (helps nudge the water pump along)

Like I said, an air ratchet allows you to take a little break when putting the fasteners back in.

Flexible 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets would help. The 3/8" U-joint wasn't that great of a help, but I used it 2-3 times.

All variations of the tools above can be helpful.

*The Job includes:

Removing drive belt
Removing drive belt tensioner, timing covers, engine mount, power steering pump, cable connections, timing belt tensioner, crankshaft bolt/pulley, water pump.
 

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Congratulations

Did you do the CPK clear and learn(camshaft position) procedure? If so how?

I've been wanting to due mine but don't have access to a HDS black box.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes. It's a simple procedure of getting it up to speed/rpm on a clear, flat road and letting it wind down.

I will get the procedure tonight out of the service manual for you.
 

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awesome, how hard was the crankcase pully bolt to remove? I am hoping my 220ft/lb impact will be able to knock it off. A friend had to use a breaker bar with a fence post slipped over it on his integra motor! :act060:
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Congrats on the TB replacement thooks. Great job.

Mtnman, here are both the Crank Pattern Learn (CKP) and Idle Learn Procedure (ILP) from the 2006-2008 FSM.

CKP:


ILP:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
twowheeled,

You aren't going to break the bolt loose with an impact...unless it is a 1" gun hooked to one of those large trailer-mounted compressors...in my opinion.

I had a 1/2" breaker bar on a 20" x 1/2" extension. On the breaker bar, I had a 28" long piece of 1-1/4" black iron pipe and it took a LOT of weight on it with about half of the pipe pulled off of the breaker bar. That had the length of the cheater assembly at about 3'.

I had the extension laying on a jack stand and my wife was down holding the big hexagon tool and 1/2" breaker bar with a piece of 1" pipe on it.

There was a loud *POP* when it came loose.

I would say at least 400 lbs of torque was on it.
 

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dang!! now I see why my friend used a fence post as a cheater bar. What is the bolt torqued back to, hopefully not over 200ftlbs??
 

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dang!! now I see why my friend used a fence post as a cheater bar. What is the bolt torqued back to, hopefully not over 200ftlbs??
The FSM says 47 lb-ft... and then another 60* turn... whatever that number is.



I wonder what the actual number would be?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yep, here is where you can find the Honda service manual online:

http://www.handa-accessories.com/ridgelinemaint.html


As far as the torque spec for tightening the crankshaft bolt, yes, I did look at the procedure in the manual. Did I do it? Hell no. That is at the end of the job and the last thing I'm going to do is worry about putting 40-50-60-some odd pounds of torque back on a bolt that took 400-600 lbs to break it free. I'm not going to hurt it one bit by cranking down on it as hard as I can with no cheater pipe.

I didn't use a torque wrench the entire time. I tightened stuff back up as I saw fit. I took them all off, I know what it took to loosen them...I tightened them back up that way.

I don't think there's a single critical bolt/fastener on this job anyway. Tighten everything back up good and it's good to go.
 

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No, if you mean access. Yes, if you mean purchase. It is available from Helm, Inc. For $~55 to $125, depending on what year you have. I do not know why the 2006-2008 costs more than the 2006 FSM.
 

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DONE!!! I did mine yesterday at 106,500 miles...

Man, what a long job. For a desk jockey, it was a great experience. I learned a lot and do NOT want to do that job again for a very long time. I will probably wait until 225K to do the next one.

The most valuable tool: The 3/8" flex head ratchet I bought Friday. Runner up- my 3/8" air ratchet. And I guess honorable mention goes to the http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648796-Crankcase-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312159933&sr=8-1 Crankshaft bolt removal tool. Well worth the $36 it took to get it in my hands.

Anyway, this was the most in-depth mechanical work I've done on my own. All by myself, except when my wife held the crankshaft tool while I put the pressure on the 19mm socket to break it free and she helped get the drive belt back on at the end.

There's a LOT of BS in this job as far as the crap you have to do, remove, snake around, etc. I guess that's the deal with working on cars today. I guess there's a lot more room in this truck than some of the cars with the V6 engines, tho.

All in all, I'm pretty darn proud of myself. I hit some gotchyas...the worst was realizing the back camshaft had rolled off of TDC when I was threading the new timing belt on. It did it three more times.

I've still got to replace the spark plugs and open the valve covers up to check the valves (I don't think there's anything wrong with the clearance, but just might go through the exercise for the fun of it.

Was it worth the $500 savings? Yeah. I'd still be wondering if I could do it. Now I know. :act035::act035::act035:
Great post.. Nice job..
Any more detail on getting everything lined up tdc etc?
 

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Just curious: Is the Crank Pattern Learn Procedure something the dealership will do before giving the truck back to you after they do this service? I'm due for mine and I honestly don't have the tools, the know-how or the guts to try this myself. I'll do fluids, brakes and darn near anything else on my own, but this isn't something I'm willing to try. I just want to make sure the truck is going to operate to the best of its ability after I get it back from this. The wife's Accord needs it done, too... :(
 

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It's part of the job in the FSM. Whether or not the shop does it... who knows?

You can always do it on your own. There's a procedure with the HDS and one without. I published the one without.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I took the old timing belt in the kitchen on my "lunch break" (I had gotten everything off except the water pump. My clothes were soaking wet...I was hungry and the pizza had just arrived. I took a quick shower and ate some grub.)

I looked at the belt, both sides while bending it...very carefully for any signs of glazing/wear/cracks/etc. None. It looked just like or better than the drive belt with 50k miles.

I know there's really no way to tell, but it and the water pump looked fine. There really is no way to tell about the water pump until coolant starts leaking out.

As far as lining everything up on TDC #1, that is explained in the video and it's pretty easy to get there once you familiarize yourself with the procedure. There's marks at the crankshaft. There's a mark or two on the outer part on the front cam...I think. There's pull tabs on the timing covers to pull so that you can see the marks while you turn the crank. It will help to have a mirror.

There's marks on the back camshaft wheel. I would get familiar with all of these after lining it up and taking the timing covers off, so you know what it looks like. You don't have to get the marks lined up with laser precision, but get them as close as possible. Again, get familiar with them so that if one cam wheel does slip, you know what to line up. I did it...and I ain't that smart...

As far as the dealership or any other shop doing the learn procedure...I bet everything I have that 95% of them don't. Most dealers don't even know there's a transfer case on the truck. I'm not saying there's not some darn good techs out there that take serious pride in their work. But they are far and few between. They get paid on commission. The more work they can do in a day, the more they get paid.

And I suspect the learn procedure doesn't matter much. I bet less than 20% of all the timing belt jobs don't have it done.


That mirror....forgot to mention. I couldn't have done the job without one.
 

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..... I hit some gotchyas...the worst was realizing the back camshaft had rolled off of TDC when I was threading the new timing belt on. It did it three more times.
That's where it comes in handy to do your valve clearances the same day. Because you have your valve covers off, you can make use of the locking pin holes in the cam shafts to hold them in place while you're putting the TB back on.

Here's a good link to a DIY crankshaft holding tool that can really take the torque and doesn't tie up any of your tools.

Thanks for the write-up.

:act024:
 

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Congrats on the TB replacement thooks. Great job.

Mtnman, here are both the Crank Pattern Learn (CKP) and Idle Learn Procedure (ILP) from the 2006-2008 FSM.

CKP:


ILP:
Thanks Speedlever

My FSM 1st edition 2006 doesn't show the learn procedure without the HDS.


Makes me think maybe a updated edition would be worth while.

I would like to think my Ingersall Thunder Gun (625 ft/lbs reverse) would remove the crank pulley bolt. I would also use caution in using plumbing fittings to make crank holding tool. They are not known for for the best types of steel and alot are coming out of china are pure sh*t. Especially those from the big box stores.
 
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