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Just had my timing belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioner all that good stuff replaced about 5,000 miles ago. It now has a ticking noise from the tensioner (according to a local shop) Do you think it's ok to drive another 30 miles or so to another shop for repair? Or do you think the "new" timing belt has too much wear from the tensioner not being tight enough? I think it's safe to drive but I would hate to ruin my engine if that belt breaks while driving. Thanks!


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sorry I don't have the expertise to answer your question re: safe to drive another 30 miles. I would think it's ok but wait to hear from an expert on here before you decide.

On a related note, I just had the timing belt and all idlers, pulleys etc... replaced by the dealer and I could not believe how quiet the engine was when I got it back. I thought I had a very noisy set of valves prior to the timing belt replacement but it is now obvious the valves were not the source of the noise.

Just curious about the diagnosis of a tensioner assembly or specific idler being the source of the noise. Is it done using a mechanics stethoscope, putting the rod on the bolt holding the idler pulley? Or is it just a best "guess" from the mechanic based on his experience hearing these sounds over the years.
 

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I thought they had done some examining to come to this conclusion but after asking what the condition of the belt was and how much wear is on it, among other questions I was told it was the mechanics "years of experience" I really just wanna drive it to get it fixed with out dishing out money for towing.


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Just had my timing belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioner all that good stuff replaced about 5,000 miles ago. It now has a ticking noise from the tensioner (according to a local shop) Do you think it's ok to drive another 30 miles or so to another shop for repair? Or do you think the "new" timing belt has too much wear from the tensioner not being tight enough? I think it's safe to drive but I would hate to ruin my engine if that belt breaks while driving. Thanks!


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Is the shop that is diagnosing the same one that did the original work? If not, I would be leary of them telling me the timing belt tensioner is bad assuming the shop that replaced actually replaced the timing belt tensioner. I guess it is possible that a brand new tensioner would go bad, but not likely.

If it is the same shop that did the original work, I would think they would need to explain how a tensioner with 5k would go bad.

Also, as the other poster said, it may the drive belt tensioner. Same side of the engine.
 

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Thanks mike099, it's not the same shop, shame on me for not taking it back to him in the first place. The guy who did the original work is really good but not that fast to get stuff done so I was shopping for a quicker fix. I'm going to drive it really easy to my original guy and hopefully it will be ok.


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Thanks mike099, it's not the same shop, shame on me for not taking it back to him in the first place. The guy who did the original work is really good but not that fast to get stuff done so I was shopping for a quicker fix. I'm going to drive it really easy to my original guy and hopefully it will be ok.


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If it's anything dealing with the timing belt, it's not going to be a very quick & easy fix...

I'd take it to original guy, if for no other reason than to be sure your 'new' diagnosis is not bs.... trying to get expensive work scheduled. The guy who did it originally certainly will have a vested interest to determine if something else is causing it, and will be on the hook if it's related to the original work.
I wouldn't worry about the noise over the short term, unless it is major.
 

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Thanks dnick, this noise started just a few days ago. It's not a real loud noise, and isn't noticeable until after a few miles when it's all warmed up good. And even then is only noticeable at idle, outside the cabin.


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Keatonjon,
I paid $1108.97 at the dealer with a shop rate of $96/hr. (parts 526.45 + labor 507.55 + tax 74.97 = 1108.97
This was for the Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley assembly, timing belt idler, serpentine belt, serpentine idler, new idler and tensioner pulley mounting bolts, antifreeze (just notice when photographing invoice I did not get the discount on antifreeze).
Included in this price was 1.5 hrs of labor for the replacement of my radiator using a new after market Spectra Radiator I provided along with Honda Parts - 2 hoses, clamps and thermostat that I provided.
I brought in a spreadsheet for all the parts I did not provide that would be necessary to do the jobs. The spreadsheet had the part numbers and prices from Majestic Honda on-line parts which were all in the 70 to 75% of retail price range.

I like Dnick’s advice about bringing it back to the place that originally did the job for all the reasons he stated. If it turns out you find a defective part, you may want to consider getting the replacement part from the Honda dealer. And this goes for everyone, if you need a part, call or stop in at the parts desk at your Honda dealer and ask them if they will meet pricing you get from another dealer. Tell them you would like to give them the business but you need them to meet the pricing you can get elsewhere delivered to your doorstep for free (usually) and with no state sales tax (usually). If they say no, ask if you can talk to the parts manager, they will usually say yes and if you have a specific example and price, that will help matters. They can punch in the part number and see what their cost is and then decide if making a little money on this sale and gaining a customer is better than not making any money and losing a sale and a positive experience for a future customer for more parts and or a new vehicle in the future. And, if you are having a bunch of work done at the dealer and they won’t give you the discount on the parts, ask if you can supply the parts HONDA OEM parts and they just charge you for labor. They probably won’t if they won’t honor legitimate pricing of parts you get somewhere else. There is potential for issues also if you supply the parts. They might say a part does not fit, it’s the wrong part number, they need additional parts etc… If they are willing to honor the price match go through the online ordering process by picking the part #’s and the quantity on the Majestic Website. Put in your shipping address and credit card info and take the steps needed to get the point where your full order is listed with part #’s and prices on screen. At that point, take a screen shot (Print screen button on PC), Command + shift + 3 on a Mac and then print the screen shot to bring to the Honda Parts Dept. as evidence of your pricing and the source. I threw out my screen shot of the pricing because I figured I’d never need it again but I included some portions of my invoice from the dealer and you can see the price discounts I got on the Repair Order and on a separate order from the parts department at the dealership when I was getting the radiator hoses, thermostat, and all the fluids that I plan to do soon. Just checking those prices again and I see the discount is about 60% off what the dealer would have charged me for the radiator hoses and the thermostat if I had not asked for the discount...it starts adding up when you are saving between 30 and 60% off the dealer cost. At the dealer list price for the fluids and hoses and thermostat I would have paid $388, instead I saved $182 and paid $205.

Good luck with your situation. I hope you get it resolved quickly and inexpensively.
 

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