[Dnick]

Also, after installing the timing belt. The SM says to do the Crankshaft position (CKP)pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
I haven't seen anyone mention this after a Timing belt replacement.

'Never did it myself. It's been 55K miles since then w/ no issues.

 

[Dnick]

Agreed.... you should have no issues at all if you follow procedures. Did you use the battery hold down bolt to assist as prescribed? As hokey as it sounded to me when I read it, it really does work out quite well. Clever utilization of "what's available", rather than invoking "special tools", as is so often the case.

 

[Dnick]

I've done many transverse engine timing belts of several makes and models over the years.
It seems the more of them you do, the more they all seem the same or similar.

One of the most important tips for me is to match mark everything on the timing system prior to disassembly.

I don't bother with top dead center alignment anymore. I remove the starter and install a universal flywheel lock tool to prevent movement. It bolts on using the starter bolt holes.
I use a paint marker and put alignment dots on the belt; cams/crank pulleys and housing.
I count belt ribs between the dots and mark the new belt in the same spots.
Then reinstall aligning the marks. This puts all the slack back over by the tensioner where it should be.

Once the belt is installed, I remove the flywheel lock tool and roll the motor by hand a few times to ensure the marks come back into alignment.
This will tell me if I'm off a tooth and it's very important before starting the engine, especially interference engines, but it's good to get into this habit on all types.

This method just works for me and I've never had any issues on any engine timing belt replacement.

The one thing I would absolutely recommend is to remove the spark plugs to relieve cylinder pressure resistance. Just makes things a whole lot easier.

I've never used the flywheel-lock method, but it certainly would add one more element of certainty. Having things @ TDC is a good enough reference for me, especially since you've already marked all of the relative pieces to ensure they are back in place. Mark EVERYTHING on both sides of the belt/gear boundary (the belt & the tooth) at cams & crank as mentioned above (BEFORE relieving any belt tension). After counting teeth, lay the belts (old & new) against one & other to ensure absolute match of markings. You simply CAN'T go wrong this way if you double check your work. It's worth the extra bit of time to do all of this.