[Denicio]

Hey Y'all,

Been a minute (or over a year) since i have posted here. My beloved G2 - 2017 Ridgeline has made it to the 109,000 mark. I ran into someone who also has one and they mentioned that at 100K miles we SHOULD get a timing belt replaced. To my ears it sounded like something EXACTLY like what a service writer would say.

Is this something i need to have done?

For the record, i am having ZERO problems out of my Ridgeline.

 

[Farther]

Here's a wealth of information and consult your owners manual.

Search results for query: timing belt change

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

 

[HistorianX]

Is this something i need to have done?

Depends. Are you a gambling man? If so, let it go and risk bricking your interference V6 due to TB or another attached component, like the tensioner, fail.

If not, then yes get it done. If you're not a DIY'er with the appropriate tools and experience, then shop around and compare dealer pricing to indy shops. Depending on where you live, there will be very little difference in the price and a BIG difference in post-work warranty coverage (shops I checked a few years ago were max 90 day/3K P/L at indys, and 3 year/36K at dealers). All work should include all belts, tensioner, water pump, check of front and oil pump seals, new spark plugs, and timing adjustments.

Roll them dice...

 

[ridge_rider]

You need to change the timing belt. I believe the maintenance minder will throw the code 4 to replace the timing belt around 105,000 miles. Maybe somewhere else who has made it past that can confirm. I would not be cheap and also do everything while you are in there including the water pump, tensioner, rollers, plugs, valve adjust, any seals etc. You will then be good for another 100,000 miles.

The engine is an interference design. If the belt breaks you are looking at major and costly engine damage when the valves collide with the pistons.

 

[johnson-rod]

Tru dat.

 

[silkiechicken]

Welcome back! Here's my timing belt experience when code 4 came up:

Taking the truck in for it's first timing belt service.

Well, MM code 4 has arrived! We did the spark plugs but I wasn't quite up to the job of DIYing the timing belt or valve adjustments this time around. She goes in tomorrow. This will be the third time it's gone to the dealer since it left the lot. The first time was for the blower fan squeaking...

www.ridgelineownersclub.com

 

[Solo]

Or you could wait until you do have a problem.
This is a preventative type service. There is no symptom until it fails.

 

[SDAlexander8]

Timing belt job for 1500$ or risk a destroyed engine that will cost over 10,000$ to replace. It’s pretty cut n dry. The J series V6 has always had a belt. Maybe the new DOHC version going in the 2024 will have a chain?

 

[zroger73]

Maybe the new DOHC version going in the 2024 will have a chain?

Nope - belt. There are no more valve clearance checks/adjustments, though.

 

[Michael Donovan]

What they said!

 

[speedlever]

It's scheduled maintenance and is proactive vs being reactive (after a failure occurs). When you do it is up to you. I'm personally comfy doing 120k mile TB service intervals as my vehicles are garaged and see normal service, rarely anything that would qualify as severe service conditions.

 

[HistorianX]

Timing belt job for 1500$ or risk a destroyed engine that will cost over 10,000$ to replace. It’s pretty cut n dry. The J series V6 has always had a belt. Maybe the new DOHC version going in the 2024 will have a chain?

Nope. If you want a chain, buy a Subaru

 

[HistorianX]

Timing belt job for 1500$ or risk a destroyed engine that will cost over 10,000$ to replace. It’s pretty cut n dry. The J series V6 has always had a belt. Maybe the new DOHC version going in the 2024 will have a chain?

I don't think the average RL owner knows that the V6 is interference--or the difference between I and non-I. Or what damage a snapped belt or failed tensioner can do. When the chain on my 86 Toyota (non-I 22R IL-4) began to fail around 250K, I heard the audible warning of chain slap. No warnings with belted I motors.

 

[speedlever]

We had a Genesis Coupe with the V6/MT for several years that was a joy to drive. But by 130k miles, it had developed pretty bad chain slap. The shop said as long as the noise went away within 5 seconds, it was good. But I didn't trust it and the cost for a new TB (and associated gear) was going to top $4000. So we sold it to Carmax and bought a WRX.

I'm not convinced a chain is any better than a belt.

 

[Steve Jordan]

We had a Genesis Coupe with the V6/MT for several years that was a joy to drive. But by 130k miles, it had developed pretty bad chain slap. The shop said as long as the noise went away within 5 seconds, it was good. But I didn't trust it and the cost for a new TB (and associated gear) was going to top $4000. So we sold it to Carmax and bought a WRX.

I'm not convinced a chain is any better than a belt.

Timing chains are lubricated by engine oil and reportedly are rough on the oil (oil shear is the phrase you often hear on the oil forums) resulting in premature degradation and the need for more frequent oil changes. So I guess everything has a trade-off.

 

[stevem5215]

GM's 3.6 engine is one of those that shear the oil badly

 

[14v6]

Chain does not have a service interval, belt does.

This means for belts you have to get involved with the pricing games based upon region, and someone else messing with your car who may cut corners with substandard parts. At least the new 3.5 does away with valve adjustments, helps a lot, no labor to pay there and no valve covers to risk leaking. Yep, I change the oil every 5k anyway.

As far as timeline for belt replacement, if you intend going another 100k might as well do it.

I'm on my 5th J35, never could entertain paying for this service for an older vehicle.

 

[Denicio]

Thank you ALL for your replies.

Next question: Is this something you would take to a reputable NON dealer auto repair shop? OR is this one of those things you simply take to the dealership and take the financial hit?

 

[14v6]

Others will chime in put the proper parts are what's most important. I believe it's the Aisin kit or OEM Honda stuff. Lot's of counterfeit stuff on the web so it's important to know where the parts are sourced from.

 

[speedlever]

I took mine to a trusted indie shop and used whatever parts they provided. (O'Reilly, I believe).