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I recently installed a Kenwood under-seat sub in my RT and had a pain finding a secure grounding point--the seat bolts are huge (compared to my sub's wiring connector), and I didn't want to tinker too much with the seat (due to the srs system).

If you remove the door sill trim, there are two 10mm bolts holding the mounting bracket for the gas cap lever in place. If you look a few inches to the right, you'll see where there's a slit in the carpet to allow some of the factory wiring to go under the seat (there's a hole in the carpet under the seat where the wiring runs). I ran my ground line there, zip tied it to the factory bundle under the door trim, and attached it to one of those bolts. Super easy.

Also, I used a wireless transmitter for my backup camera so I wouldn't have to run a line to the front of the cab. Getting power for the camera was easy enough--I tapped into the reverse lights. But, being a tinkerer and a nerd, I wanted to be able to have the camera on any time and not just while in reverse. So, I also tapped into the running/parking lights. This means if I turn those on, I get power whether I'm in reverse or not.

Of course, this could also mean that when in reverse, my running lights would come on, and when my running lights were on, my reverse light would come on. Enter the 1n400x diode. The voltage drop is minimal, so I used two of those--one coming from running lights and the other from the reverse light.

I get (almost) constant power to my backup camera, auto power in reverse, and I didn't have to remove any seats to install or ground any of it.

Thought this might help someone else taking on one of these installs!
 

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I recently installed a Kenwood under-seat sub in my RT and had a pain finding a secure grounding point--the seat bolts are huge (compared to my sub's wiring connector), and I didn't want to tinker too much with the seat (due to the srs system).

If you remove the door sill trim, there are two 10mm bolts holding the mounting bracket for the gas cap lever in place. If you look a few inches to the right, you'll see where there's a slit in the carpet to allow some of the factory wiring to go under the seat (there's a hole in the carpet under the seat where the wiring runs). I ran my ground line there, zip tied it to the factory bundle under the door trim, and attached it to one of those bolts. Super easy.

Also, I used a wireless transmitter for my backup camera so I wouldn't have to run a line to the front of the cab. Getting power for the camera was easy enough--I tapped into the reverse lights. But, being a tinkerer and a nerd, I wanted to be able to have the camera on any time and not just while in reverse. So, I also tapped into the running/parking lights. This means if I turn those on, I get power whether I'm in reverse or not.

Of course, this could also mean that when in reverse, my running lights would come on, and when my running lights were on, my reverse light would come on. Enter the 1n400x diode. The voltage drop is minimal, so I used two of those--one coming from running lights and the other from the reverse light.

I get (almost) constant power to my backup camera, auto power in reverse, and I didn't have to remove any seats to install or ground any of it.

Thought this might help someone else taking on one of these installs!
I'm about to do the same with a Garmin wireless backup camera. Where did you mount your transmitter? Any pictures of the mounting location and reverse light wiring would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 

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Austin any Ideas on how to get my factory aftermarket honda installed back up camera to work when I am not in reverse ? I would like to see back wile driving
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm about to do the same with a Garmin wireless backup camera. Where did you mount your transmitter? Any pictures of the mounting location and reverse light wiring would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Sorry for the delay! Mine is mounted between my bumper and aftermarket hitch. I saw that at least one forum member here mounted his on the bottom of his tailgate, but I was worried about it getting knocked around.

As for the transmitter, I'll see if I can get some photos. When I got power from the driver's side taillight, I then dropped the cables down and ran them through the rear part of the frame (there are plenty of places to get into it down there). I used zip ties to hold the transmitter in place above a part of the frame that would be relatively low moisture. I then taped the connections up well and slid them back into the frame. I've thought about buying a cheap conduit box to put the transmitter in for protection, but when I've checked mine out, it's dry and clean.

I'll try to get some photos when the weather permits--it's been nothing but rainy lately.

Good luck on your install! It was definitely worth it.


Austin any Ideas on how to get my factory aftermarket honda installed back up camera to work when I am not in reverse ? I would like to see back wile driving
I'm assuming you have a stock stereo, correct? If so, I'm not 100% sure. Let me know, though--
 

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Just be aware - especially with the "always on" selection, it cal yield an early camera demise. When starting the vehicle there is a momentary power surge that can send surplus voltage to the camera that's can be outside the working voltage of the camera. For instance, the voltage may spike to 14.xx + volts, but the upper limit of some cameras is around 13v (ie a 10% voltage tolerance)

Voltage can be regulated with a small resistor (8.2 ohm) on the power side of the camera.

You can read more here: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30317&highlight=Back+up+camera...&page=12 starting with post 112
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the heads-up! My "always on" option is really an "always on only if the headlights are on"--it's not getting power when I start up.
 
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