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Morning, I am the second owner of a 06 RTL purchased in early 2013. Not knowing the history of the vehicle except the timing belt had not been done, I had that replaced at 126,000 miles, everything flushed, changed oil and pretty much have had very little trouble in 3 1/2 years at 198,000 miles. I am a former Jeep guy who has worked on CJs, XJ's and JK's. The Ridgeline engine frankly scared the heck out of me. This past Monday, I took my daughter to school with no issue. Went to start it in the afternoon and would crank but not turnover. (Interesting note, when I had the key in the on position, I heard crackling. Never heard that before and have no clue) I knew the time had come, rolled up my sleeves and dove in. Went back to my Jeep days and and went to the usual suspects. Replaced plugs, replaced battery. I have replaced dozens of alternators and had no indication that was the case. I understand if it were a coil pack it would show up on check engine light. Still would not start. Went ahead and pulled starter (That was fun) and had it checked and was good. 10 year old starter, I went ahead and put a new one in. Made a noticeable difference but still would not turn over. 95% of time with my Jeeps this would have solved the issue and been back on the road. Minus coil pack, new experience for me. It has been educational and have learned much about my RTL but I am at an Impasse. Just not sure what my next step is. Anyone have any suggestions? I appreciate any thoughts.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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You say it won't start, but does it turn on? Have you checked the grounds in the engine compartment? There are some threads on Ignition switch issues, I'll search for them and add to this post.

Before you did all this did you happen to plug in a code reader? I hate to say this but you've thrown a lot of parts at it but you may have been better off to take it to a dealer for a "Scan" with the HDS.
 

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Check TSB 07-020. There was a rash of defective Fuel Pump Relays that were to be replaced under a recall campaign. If they fail you will get crank no start condition. It is referred to as PGM-FI MAIN RELAY 2
Relay panel is in driver side lower footwell kick panel. The relay should be the bottom left most relay and light blue in color. If it says Denso on it the TSB was performed and should not be bad but may try replacing and see if it helps. If the name on it is Mitsuba it should be replaced with the Denso unit.
Supposedly they were to put a punch mark over the 17th character on the engine compartment VIN plate to identify if it was done or not.

VIN's affected are: VIN 2HJYK1...6H511215 thru 2HJYK1...6H52865

Hopefully it's that simple.
 

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So with your issue of "it would crank, but not turn over"..... Is the same thing. Im thinking you mean it will crank/turn over but not start...So you don't have fuel or spark.

1.Make sure the little green key indicator goes off on the dahsboard. Which means your key is communicating with the ridge.

2.Put the honda starter back in if you can cause the aftermarket one you got will more then likely fail quickly. If you turned the honda one in for the core then you are SOL.

3. Fuel is more then likely your issue. Has been more common then anything else as far as I know
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting note on the fuel relay. I checked the vin and mine was part of the recall. I went under the dash and found that yes, it was the recalled part. Mitsuba. I pulled the part and called my local dealer. They said that was resolved and too call Honda. I called Honda and actually they were very good. They said my RTL had already had the work done but I was not to have a MITSUBA part. They had said this was not the first time they had seen this. It doesnt hurt too look. They gave me a case number and would cover everything. I went to the dealer and after some discussion got the part on the promise that I bring it in for them to verify the work to complete the warranty. I mean there is only one way to put in the relay, but I get it. They could have made me buy the part since I couldn't bring the truck in. After all that and the correct relay in, the engine still did not turn over. Cranks like a champ though. I agree that I am beginning to throw parts at it, however not knowing the service history and the age, alot of these things needed to be in the works anyway.
I am of the mind that it could very well be the fuel pump and know there are certain checks to verify the pump is bad. Remember folks, I was a JEEP guy. I love my Ridgeline. I live in the mountains on the east coast and in AWD in the winter does what my wife's Jeep will not. Over half the mountain folks here own JEEPS and have given many rides up. Good tires do help alot. What was natural to me in repairs is no longer natural and feel like I am learning a new language. I am finding it difficult to locate proper diagrams in location of items. With that said, any advice on checking the fuel pump and as stupid as it seems where the bloody thing is located? Anyone have a link to a good schematic? I do appreciate the help just getting frustrated.
STUV- I have read a few posts about the green key indicator light. When I place mine in the on position, it will be solid and then blink. never paid attention to it before. You say it should go out? Also, I still have the old starter, but if you heard it you would more than likely go ahead and replace it as well. I will hang on to it. I also did plug in a code reader and there were no codes to be found which i found a little odd. Thanks to all for the input.
 

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This may not pertain to a RL but sounds like a problem I had once long ago (turned over, no start. 89 Accord LXi). Turned out it had a defective starter relay. My only difference was my problem was intermittent, and took over a year to completly fail before the Honda people could find it.


LATE CORRECTION, THE DEFECTIVE ITEM WAS A FAILED FUEL PUMP RELAY.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That is so odd. I had the folks from Honda telling me that if the starter relay was bad that there would be nothing to the starter, so I discounted that. But then, I had Honda tell me that my truck was taken care of during the fuel relay recall and come to find out it was not, would not hurt to check at this point. Thanks for the tip.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Agree with Wrascal. I would check that starter cut relay first.



 

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Hmm...well sorry to hear that relay didn't sort it out.

Just for giggles since it doesn't cost anything to check you may want to pop the rubber timing belt inspection plugs off the covers and just make sure the belt is still intact. Not saying that's the issue but it's free to check JIC. I do Subaru service and we've had belts fail at 70K or earlier depending on quality of belt and install.
On passenger side of engine at top of each cylinder bank there are plastic covers for each cam gear. On each of those there is a rubber plug, they are round and have little pull tabs on them. Pop them out and have a look in there with a flash light, you should see the belt around the cam gears.
I had a condition on another car where the belt broke while driving and it never made a noise. It would crank just fine but obviously wouldn't start. I guess difference was I had a CEL but didn't know at the time what it was for.
 

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Most likely fuel problems.
I'd remove the fuel cap and listen down the filler pipe when someone else turns the key on, to hear the fuel pump fire up and pressurize the system (runs briefly then shuts off). If I hear nothing - then start troubleshooting the wiring to the pump. If I hear something, then I'd check for pressure at the fuel rail.

It could be spark, but seems less likely to me. Pull a plug to confirm.
 

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Completely thinking it's fuel related. You could have simply gotten a bad batch of gas or maybe the fuel pump/filter is clogged. I hope it's not the pump because it's a HUGE pain to access in these trucks. You have to disassemble the back seat area to even get to it. I am like you in that I'll track down a problem tirelessly until I find the root cause. It sounds like the engine isn't getting fuel at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE: Well, I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer/ First and foremost, thanks to all for the help. awful darn kind of everyone to help out. Yes, you could say it was a fuel pump issue. I started to think of the day when my Ridgeline wouldnt start. The battery had gone dead on the FOB and was going to replace the battery. I took the key apart and realized I had to pick up my daughter. Stupid me, I turned the key and the key snapped off from the FOB. In my rush to figure what was wrong, I lost the plastic part that holds the chip, transponder or the technical name I cannot remember. I went to the dealer to order a new key. This is the scary part, The guy said it was in the metal part of the key. I insisted it was not but I didnt want to argue just wanted to get a key. Had to wait a few days, got it and they cut the key, got the key code and contacted a Mobil locksmith to come to the mountains. He put the key in, plugged in his computer, worked his magic and moment of truth, turned right over and purred like a kitten. My advice as given to me, if your Ridgeline will not start, check the immobilizer located in the ring where you insert the key or make sure the chip is communicating with it. The immobilizer tells the fuel pump to work. It was an education and learned so much about the engine. Taking out the battery plate was harder than replacing the starter. I also learned that the dealer doesnt really know much more than a well researched consumer. The same folks told me to check the bulbs in my fog lights I would have to remove the bumper. That is a lie, there is an access panel for both lights that I was able to check the bulbs. While digging around I also discovered why my fog lights never worked. A little re- wiring and 2 birds with 1 stone. Again, thanks for the support.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Thanks for bringing closure to this issue.

Yep, there was an important part of the mystery that we didn't know... the broken key issue.

I had to replace a key when the plastic part broke. I bought a blank, did some surgery to move the rfid chip over to the new blank, and had the local Honda shop cut it for me. But yeah, that rfid chip is a no-go item.

I guess there should have been a question asked about the immobilizer early on, but I guess it was so basic (and with no info about the key issue), no one thought to ask about it.

Did you happen to notice the immobilizer icon on the panel when you were trying to start it with the bad key?



 

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Makes all kinds of sense now. Smallest issue = biggest problems. Glad it's all worked out now.
 

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Thanks again to all for the input. A few weeks ago, I had no idea what an immobilizer was or what the green key light even meant and really didnt pay attention to it, now I am an expert. Yes, the RFID chip, Thanks for the tech name SPEEDLEVER. Forgot to mention that the day after getting the truck running, I found the broken plastic piece while taking my daughter to school. My wife and I tore the truck apart not once, not twice but 3 times and didnt look in one spot. Murphy's law. I got on with ROC to discover the issue and also found why my light on my radio no longer worked, going to do some surgery this weekend in hopes the suggested fix works. Not looking forward removing the dash again but the no light is annoying at night. I hope I will be able to help someone else in kind. Cheers all.
 
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