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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Put the hitch in yesterday and today tackled the trailer wiring. I bought a Tow-Ready wiring kit from a clearing house on eBay for about 20-bucks, including shipping. This is the one that plugs into the Honda harness between the taillights.

It's a pretty straightforward install, so of course I messed it up the first time. All I can say is if in doubt, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.

Unfortunately for me, I GLANCED at the instructions and ran the wrong color wires to the wrong lights. It took about 20 minutes to secure everything and I was really pleased withmyself. Then I hooked up my trailer. Running lights...check. Brake lights....check. Four way hazards....check.:D Left turn....why is my right turn signal flasing on the trailer.:mad: Right turn....Now my left turn on the trailer is flashing. Oh crap, reversed the wiring.:eek:

Unhook the trailer, back up into the driveway, dismount the lights, reverse the wiring and find new routes for everything, button it back up and it all checks out good this time. By the way, if I haven't mentioned it....READ THE D**M INSTRUCTIONS FIRST. My wife tells me she's going to have that tattoed on my forehead, but who ever reads their own forehead.

Anyway, here are the pics of the install. Just for clairifcation, I reversed the closeup photos of the wiring to represent correct side colors to drivers and passenger side. Work with me here everyone, I'm an amateur.

1) To remove you taillights, lower your tailgate and the bolts for the lights are located just inside the the tailgate housing. A 10 mm socket wrench will have them off in a few seconds, but be careful not to let them drop into the tailgate hinge. They're a bear to get out.

2) Once the bolts are out, you have to GENTLY pull the lights away from the truck. There are two plastic recepticles that help hold the lights in place and you don't want to break them. You may have to rock the llights slightly to get them to pop out. DONT try prying them out with. You'll only run the risk of damaging the plastic housing or messing up your paint. (No, I didn't do that.)

3) Remember, wiring pics reversed for clarity. stringing the trailier wiring out to get an idea where everything will go.

4) Green wiring to passenger side taillight

5) Yellow wiring to drivers side taillight
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The directions told me to hook up the drivers side lights first, work all the wiring down through the truck and over to the passenger side. It was easier to lay everything out on the ground, route the drivers side wiring (Yellow Wire) up through the body into the taillight area, then work the wiring around the body and bumper assembly to the passenger side (Green Wire) and up to the passenger taillight

Once the lights are hooked up you can stuff the wiring connections back down into the taillight housing. On this wiring kit there's a small box where the wires all go into. This has double sided tape and I was able to attach it to the drivers side bumper bracket without too much trouble. I ran the passenger side wiring between the facia and bumper, removing and reinstalling the plastic facia holders as I went along. I ran the passenger wiing between the heat shield and trunk to protect it from the muffler and up through the body to the lights. I put the wiring into a split loom for added protection and to clean up the install.

The four pin connector for the trailer was also run though the drivers side rear bumper, then I added more split wire loom and a wire tie to hold it in place. I attached some velcro to the bottom of the hitch and wrapped the furry stuff around the wiring. The four pin connector fits into a receptical that is located on the bottom of a rubber hitch cover I got a checker for around 15 bucks. The velcro helps hold the wiring out of hte way so it isn't hanging down and everything looks pretty clean.


1) The new cover, clean and simple

2) Ain't velcro wonderful.

3) Easy to remove and hook up to the trailer.

4) The velcro helps keep the wiring from dangling down, and everyone hates dangling stuff.

While I'm mechanically inclined, I usually avoid any electrical work because I'm lousy at it. However, despite reversing the wiring, this job went better and easier than I thought it would. If you only need a four pin connector, these do it yourself kits work pretty good.

Next week, I try to change a light bulb in my house. Wish me luck
 

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Dude... You Da Man! Nice! Can't wait to see what you do next! :D
 

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I put this type of trailer wiring (not OEM) into my ridgeline back lights. When I hooked it up to my trailer the running lights didn't work. Reading threads about running lights it said to check the secondary fuse box under the hood and mentioned two 20amp fuses. Upon checking the box there were four blank spots where those two fuses were supposed to be. Do I have to place a fuse in one of those spots in order to get a hot to the running lights on the trailer? All the lights on the truck and the turn, brake and flashers on the trailer work...just the running lights don't...

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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Do I have to place a fuse in one of those spots in order to get a hot to the running lights on the trailer?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
No. These fuses are for the OEM wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put this type of trailer wiring (not OEM) into my ridgeline back lights. When I hooked it up to my trailer the running lights didn't work. Reading threads about running lights it said to check the secondary fuse box under the hood and mentioned two 20amp fuses. Upon checking the box there were four blank spots where those two fuses were supposed to be. Do I have to place a fuse in one of those spots in order to get a hot to the running lights on the trailer? All the lights on the truck and the turn, brake and flashers on the trailer work...just the running lights don't...

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Assuming the trailer wiring kit you used was brand new, I would double check the lights on your trailer and make sure those connections are good. I've been towing my trailer for the past three days and haven't had any problems with my lights at all.
 

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Thanks for the replies...will check both the trailer lights and check the connector for power with a test light. Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad to be of help!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Has this setup lasted the test of time?

No harness needed under the dash with this kit right?
I can attest this set up is still working without issue. No "under the dash" work is needed.

That being said, I live in Arizona, a very dry climate. I would be remiss if I did not point out that several members who have this same setup who live back east and have very wet climates complain of corrision and aftermarket harness failure.

So, depending on where you live, this can be an inexpensive alternative to the stock, and somewhat complicated, Honda wiring harness or a waste of money for a harness that fails after a couple of years.

If you decide to go with the plug n play harness, check eBay and other online sellers as you can usually save a bit over in store prices.
 

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Just a couple of points.
About the corosion issue, if you use dielectric grease on any and all plug-in wiring connections you wil greatly reduce, if not eliminate, moisture related corosion problems. Use it liberally both inside the connector and one the wiring sides of the connectors to seal out moisture.
I have never seen any add on trailer wiring that required any wiring to be done under the dash. Every aftermarket wiring install I have ever seen or installed wires at the rear of the vehicle either at a main harness or at each individual taillight.
The only time I have had to work under the dash for any kind of trailer related wiring was when installing electrically activated trailer brakes. Which, BTW, is a royal PITA!
 

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The Honda wiring harness is different in that it isolates the truck wiring from the trailer so that a failure in one won't affect the other. You can still do it your way, but it won't isolate the electrics like the Honda OEM harness.

We've seen numerous examples of electrical gremlins reported here that almost invariably are caused by 3rd party harnesses.
 

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Has this setup lasted the test of time?

No harness needed under the dash with this kit right?
I have had this same set up since 07, put it on just after I bought my RL and they are working great to this day......

no under dash work needed....they are plug and play.......
 

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Awesome, this way is way cheaper and I'm sure if grease and using heat shrink tubing are used there should be no issues

Thanks guys
 

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Rented a trailer the other day and hooked it up to the factory trailer light plug Except !! NO lights tried my adapter (round trailer to flat 4pin) and tried their plug too still no lights or turn signals , so could it be the under hood fuses didn't have time to check maybe tomorrow I'll check the fuses

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My 2017 RTL-T FWD did not have the wiring harness installed. I bought the seven pin wiring harness and installed. No splicing of wires the harness from Honda is a plug and play for the harness to be mounted on the back. For electric brakes on a trailer was a little more tricky. There is a module that plugs into a harness behind the rear seats. Getting to it was the hard part. When the instructions say have an assistant to help lift and remove the rear seat, they were not kidding. I put the first scratch on my new Ridgeline doing that alone. First step in the process is to disconnect the battery so you will not activate the air bags while removing trim. Two auto breakers also plug in back there.


http://techinfo.honda.com/********/pubs/AI/AH/AII02857-24/enu/AII02857-24.pdfa
 
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