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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Truck will give a bad clunk when slowing down to about 25mph then accelerate. New oil.

Any ideas? No codes or blinking D's
 

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More details about your truck (model year, how many miles, maintenance history, etc.) might be helpful in obtaining useful help. Based on your brief description, it could be related to suspension, drive train, motor mounts... the list goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
06 with 240k km, bought it last spring. Had the driveshaft reman'ed and did brakes / swaybar endlinks tranny oil change. Tried the OEM oil and then went the maxlife route on the ATF. Gears typically change smoothly. suspension is firm, motor mounts: I doubt it.

When the clunk happens, it's always at same time during a upshift after a deceleration to low speeds. Even when really feathering the throttle, it will clunk in gear after a short delay.
 

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I think you should go back to OEM. Even the tranny shops big and small around the dealer I used to work at bought it from us. One said he could use an additive to make Dextron 3 be Honda like
He started buying the Z1 from us after the trannys he rebuilt or serviced started making noise. Even some of the bigger part stores stocked it from us.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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There is a TSB for transmission programming updates for the older Ridges. It deals with clunky shifting but it may be a long shot that it will fix / help your issue.

More details on what you mean about "clunk"

Why are you discounting motor mounts as a possible culprit? At 240km, one or more is likely shot.
 

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It's probably those solenoids on the transmission that others have mentioned going bad. Yours is probably just intermittent.

Steve
 

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i had a similar issue with my 07 RT. she has 200k on her so i figured it could be somewhat normal, but i also noticed a bit of a rough idle which led me to check out the EGR valve. i removed it and submerged the lower end (opposite of plug) in carb cleaner overnight. then i cleaned it the best i could with an old toothbrush and some Q tips. Helped with the idle issue but i also seemed to help the shifting issue. apparently a dirty EGR valve can actually cause rough shifts from the transmission. i figured it cant hurt spending a few bucks on some carb cleaner. might save ya from chasing the issue down the rabbit hole. here is an older post that pertains to this as well;

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...-transmission-issue-turned-out-egr-valve.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is a TSB for transmission programming updates for the older Ridges. It deals with clunky shifting but it may be a long shot that it will fix / help your issue.

More details on what you mean about "clunk"

Why are you discounting motor mounts as a possible culprit? At 240km, one or more is likely shot.
Thanks for your reply.

I'm discounting the mount(s) because even though I feather the throttle, I get a noisy upshift, more like a *bang*.
It happens every time I'm going 30, slowing down to 15-20 and applying throttle again. It really feels like there's too much fluid pressure. If I wait just a few more seconds, and give it gas it doesn't happen.

I had bad mounts on other cars, it creates noises every gear, and on hard acceleration (not my case).
 

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Have you checked the remanufactured drive shaft for slop? What made you move away from Honda tranny fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I thought it was the driveshaft too. I had it rebuild by a local shop. Clunk was noticeable when driving with the driveshaft removed.

I had the clunk with the Honda oil (not the Z1) so I tried maxlife (read good reviews on this site). Will try Z1 next I think.
 

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Not sure what you mean by Honda tranny fluid but not Z1. Z1 replaced the preceding one, DW1 more then a few years ago. I noticed you said, you bought it with some miles on it. How did the previous owner maintan it?

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It looked maintained OK, had very little to do on it. I noticed it has a new radiator, so I suspect a SMOD probably occurred. I'm wondering how bad it damaged the internals of the tranny if it had coolant in it.
 

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If you are considering another fluid swap, it might be worth it to have a complete exchange done with a bladder type exchanger. It uses the tranny's pump to do the work. I guess one can also DIY the procedure but I don't know the exact procedure so I will leave that alone. Using a typical pressurized flusher is not recommended.
 

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I agree with your logic on the mounts . . .

I wouldn't bother with a swap back to Z1. The DW1 should be better in all respects; no need to go backwards. Even after 3 dump and fills you still have a considerable amount of the old stuff inside BTW. I personally wouldn't touch the valvoline atf but at this point swapping back to DW1 makes little sense since you had the problem while running DW1.

Basically I doubt that switching around to different fluids will solve your issue at this point. It sounds like you have given that approach a good try already. However if you were going to do another fluid change over (particularly since you suspect a SMOD event) I would vote for complete flush using a bladder type exchanger and going back to DW1

My 06 had some torque converter shudder which is somewhat common problem on the early Ridges. Occurred at around 40-50mph in top gear. I'm not an additive guy at all but I did give Lubegard Shudder Fix at try and it helped for about 5k miles after adding it to the transmission. Lubegard makes another additive which I have no personal experience with but it might be a good last ditch type option.

www.amazon.com/Lubegard-60902-Autom...rd_wg=rHKiX&psc=1&refRID=A7X5KKYMDNMMK5WSPMCF
 

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2007 Honda Ridgeline RTL
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There is a TSB for transmission programming updates for the older Ridges. It deals with clunky shifting but it may be a long shot that it will fix / help your issue.

More details on what you mean about "clunk"

Why are you discounting motor mounts as a possible culprit? At 240km, one or more is likely shot.
I had a bad front motor mount I didn't discover till my RL's oil pan started leaking at 137K miles. That, of course, can lead (as it did in my case) to a series of issues that have to be addressed: oil pump reseal, oil pan reseal, oil pump O-ring, oil filter adapter gasket, VTEC gaskets, oil pick up O-ring, front crankshaft seal front camshaft seals.

While I can only speculate, I'm convinced the constant lunging of the motor from the unsteady motor mount created conditions (i.e. vibrations) that broke the oil pan seal. My mechanic fortunately caught it all, and, now, 30K miles later, I haven't had a single issue develop from that THOROUGH repair. The best $725 I ever spent.
 

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