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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, guys new to the forum. I'm in Northeast CT. Bought a 2006 for cheap. Promlem according to the PO is it needs a new transmission.
The issue being that it will go into drive, but it will not always shift to the next gear. It will go into neutral instead. Now maybe the trans doesn't need to be changed, and perhaps it's electronic related. (Just looked at it last night so haven't been able to really look at it.)
But if the transmission does have to be changed are they compatible between all years? Or are there changes that would not make one year work in another?
Thanks
 

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Pull the pan off. Inspect for chunks of metal. Visual check of the fluid with a flashlight into it. (fine shiny particles indicate torque converter shot) If fluid is black and smells like burnt resistors then your clutch packs are toast and it's been overheated badly. Rebuild time if so. Otherwise someone else will come along and let you know what others fit it. At the very least you can get one from 06 - 09 I'm sure those are right.

Steve
 

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Are there any drive line related warnings on the dash? Did you check to see if the vehicle is emissions ready and have no 'recently' cleared fault codes?
If it is anything like the shift solonoids, they can be fixed at home, by you, in your driveway, for a couple of hundred bucks.

Also, since you bought a 2006, make sure that your radiator is changed immediately (if not already) and the engine coolant, radiator hoses and the thermostat are changed, while you are at it.
There is a list of maintenance items you need to address for the truck to be road worthy. CT is not easy on the vehicles due to snow, so make sure it has no bad rusts anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, I haven't picked it up. But there wasn't any dash lights on at the time I drove it.
He said the radiator was replaced.
There is some rust, but not substantial. It does have higher miles, but is meant to be used as second vehicle for me.
When I get it all start were you guys suggested. Thanks

Was able to get the truck towed to my house tonight.
After getting it back went for a short drive to see if I could get any symptoms. I didn't, then again it was only about a 15 minute loop. So most likely not up to full temp.
I have a basic obd2 scanner, no codes were detected. But being a basic one can't see if things are stored or recently cleared.
I'll have to wait to the weekend, to get a look at the fluid. On the dip stick it looked normal.

I did a drain and fill of the fluid today.
The fluid was a little dark, but didn't look overly dark. Seem to be a fair amount of the fine metal particles on the magnetic plug.
But drove it for about a half hour today, didn't seem to experience issues. I don't want to get to far away in case there was an issue.
So at this point no actual symptoms I can report. Only what the previous owner originally said.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No I didn't. I was planning to, but completely forgot.
I would say the fluid was a dark deep Marron. The drain plug I would say had about maybe a 1/16" of film on it.
 

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No I didn't. I was planning to, but completely forgot.
I would say the fluid was a dark deep Marron. The drain plug I would say had about maybe a 1/16" of film on it.
For safe measure, do two more drain and fill on the ATF.

Change out the rear differential fluid and center transfer unit as well. Single DNF would be fine for these two.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wanted to do more drain and fills on the trans. But was second guessing it cause if there was something wrong with the trans I just wasted $100+ on fluids. But maybe I'll drive it a little, wait like a week. Do another change and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update. I've been driving the Ridgeline without issues for the last few months, until today.
It was like the past Owner said. I was driving and it was as if it would go into nuetral. The revs on the engine would go up but I wouldn't be going anywhere. Then it would slowly kinda of chug along, with the revs still going up high if I hit the gas. But it not responding. I was able to creep along the few miles to work.
 

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Update. I've been driving the Ridgeline without issues for the last few months, until today.
It was like the past Owner said. I was driving and it was as if it would go into nuetral. The revs on the engine would go up but I wouldn't be going anywhere. Then it would slowly kinda of chug along, with the revs still going up high if I hit the gas. But it not responding. I was able to creep along the few miles to work.
I've had that issue sometimes with my old Odyssey. I would put it into neutral and back to drive and it would be okay. The problem was intermittent only once or twice a month but never escalated. I just drove it like that for a couple of years before selling it. Never got worse to the point of having to replace the transmission.
 

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Update. I've been driving the Ridgeline without issues for the last few months, until today.
It was like the past Owner said. I was driving and it was as if it would go into nuetral. The revs on the engine would go up but I wouldn't be going anywhere. Then it would slowly kinda of chug along, with the revs still going up high if I hit the gas. But it not responding. I was able to creep along the few miles to work.
Are you comfortable to drop the transmission, yourself, and change the ATF filter that is there?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I would be. I bought it with the intensions of probably having to pull the trans. Just I didn't end up experiencing any symptoms so I just went with it.
On the drive back from work yesterday, it was more like it didn't want to switch to the next gear.
I was doing 40 at 4500 rpms or so.
(I don't live far away). Sometimes it was surging and seemed like it wanted to go.
 

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Yeah I would be. I bought it with the intensions of probably having to pull the trans. Just I didn't end up experiencing any symptoms so I just went with it.
On the drive back from work yesterday, it was more like it didn't want to switch to the next gear.
I was doing 40 at 4500 rpms or so.
(I don't live far away). Sometimes it was surging and seemed like it wanted to go.
Yeah just change out the transmission and be done with it. You can find them for about $500 depending where you live, or have your current one rebuilt. You can save about $1000 in labor by doing it yourself. You can get the transmission from the wheel well by partially disassembling the subframe. (take out the two driver side bolts and back out but don't completely remove the passenger side ones. The subframe should drop enough so you can get the transmission out. Took me about a day to remove when I had to replace my rear main seal. Also while I was there I rebuilt my rack and pinion because it was leaking a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Anyone have a write up for a transmission removal?
I know people are probably gonna say get a manual.
But was just curious if someone had a write up with some tips or time saving ideas to get it out.
Lot of time the service manual has the longest possible way to take it, sometimes removing things that aren't needed.
Thanks.
 

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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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Anyone have a write up for a transmission removal?
I know people are probably gonna say get a manual.
But was just curious if someone had a write up with some tips or time saving ideas to get it out.
Lot of time the service manual has the longest possible way to take it, sometimes removing things that aren't needed.
Thanks.
Do you at least have the shop manual to refer to if you need it?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So any 06-08 trans will work? Or are there different trans codes within those years. I believe mine is a bfja, or bjfa. (Can't remember exactly at work).
 
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