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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been experimenting with the “ECON” button on and off since I bought my 2017 RTL-E. It seems to add about 1mpg overall.

However, I decided to leave it on permanently because it dampens throttle sensitivity and prevents jackrabbit starts, which is nice.

I’ve since noticed throttle pulsing when going up mild inclines. Even though I hold the accelerator pedal rock steady, a slight engine load will cause the engine to pulse. It’s easily felt and the tachometer confirms it.

Anyone else experiencing similar ?
 

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Glad I now know I am not crazy. I kept asking different passengers if they felt the slight consistent pulsation in power when traveling uphill in certain cases. Mine only does it at very specific RPM's but yes I have noticed it. ECON button gets on my nerves, I'll take the slight drop in MPG (if any) for a better driving experience. I usually compensate for the throttle dulling anyhow by sinking my foot deeper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Glad I now know I am not crazy. I kept asking different passengers if they felt the slight consistent pulsation in power when traveling uphill in certain cases. Mine only does it at very specific RPM's but yes I have noticed it. ECON button gets on my nerves, I'll take the slight drop in MPG (if any) for a better driving experience. I usually compensate for the throttle dulling anyhow by sinking my foot deeper.
I’m gonna make an appointment with dealer service and let you know what I find out
 

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Does the tach bounce? Could be transmission reprogramming needed. There is a thread about this. If it doesn't that could be vcm and torque converter lock/unlock. It seems like the RL is prone to vibrations under very light load. Lately, it sometimes occurs (vibration is gas pedal) when I ease back into the throttle after coasting on flat roads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Does the tach bounce? Could be transmission reprogramming needed. There is a thread about this. If it doesn't that could be vcm and torque converter lock/unlock. It seems like the RL is prone to vibrations under very light load. Lately, it sometimes occurs (vibration is gas pedal) when I ease back into the throttle after coasting on flat roads.
Yes, the tach does bounce. I guess it could be the transmission programming, but I have not noticed any vibration in the gas pedal. Dealer will figure it out, I hope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Depending on the year, there is a TSB update for this they should be able to fix.
There is indeed a TSB on this problem. Today, I took my truck into the dealer and described the issue.
At first, they said that since my regular warranty ran out 2 months ago, a $150 deductible may apply on the extended warranty - which does NOT cover software upgrades.

But, I just got a call from the dealer Service. They said the Honda TSB recommends a transmission software upgrade, and flushing the transmission fluid 3 times. Since it’s a transmission issue, it’s covered in full, but the deductible may still apply.
 

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There is indeed a TSB on this problem. Today, I took my truck into the dealer and described the issue.
At first, they said that since my regular warranty ran out 2 months ago, a $150 deductible may apply on the extended warranty - which does NOT cover software upgrades.

But, I just got a call from the dealer Service. They said the Honda TSB recommends a transmission software upgrade, and flushing the transmission fluid 3 times. Since it’s a transmission issue, it’s covered in full, but the deductible may still apply.
Good news, hope it works. I believe some just change the fluid more frequently to stay ahead of this issue. I take it your extended warranty isn't Hondacare?

Here is a thread on the issue.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good news, hope it works. I believe some just change the fluid more frequently to stay ahead of this issue. I take it your extended warranty isn't Hondacare?

Here is a thread on the issue.

Thanks for the TSB ! There was no charge at all for the repair. They flushed the transmission 3x, but said there was no software update available, which contradicts what they said earlier that day, and what the TSB instructs. We’ll see how the fix holds out.
 

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I’ve been experimenting with the “ECON” button on and off since I bought my 2017 RTL-E. It seems to add about 1mpg overall.

However, I decided to leave it on permanently because it dampens throttle sensitivity and prevents jackrabbit starts, which is nice.

I’ve since noticed throttle pulsing when going up mild inclines. Even though I hold the accelerator pedal rock steady, a slight engine load will cause the engine to pulse. It’s easily felt and the tachometer confirms it.

Anyone else experiencing similar ?
Thanks for posting this . I'm having the same issue on my 17 Ridgeling. It's exactly as you described it. The tachometer bounces and everything. I'm out of warranty, so I'm wondering how much it will cost me to have the TSB and transmission flush done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When they told me I was out of warranty and that at least a software update would be billable, I must’ve made a very sour face. They flushed the transmission a few times, but said that they did not update the transmission software. The problem has NOT returned, and I paid nothing. Maybe I got lucky ? Or maybe because the warranty had only recently expired at the time ?
 

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The coverage for the TSB on the transmission "Judder" is 80,000 miles. I know for a fact since I just had my done on a 2017. Had noticed the "judder" for about a year or so but was minor. Kept getting progressively more noticeable so called and they did the update and flush. I had 79,945 miles when I dropped it off.

Shifts like a new car and doesn't "judder" any longer. Much smoother and no tack wobble. Apparently it is a torque converter lock up issue (or something like that). Needs to be fixed or premature tranny failure can happen.
 

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Yep, a transmission fluid replacement will help with "judder" mostly because you are putting the additive package back into the transmission. That additive package is what helps to eliminate that (at least till it wears out again). In years past I owned a Chrysler LHS. It was a great car with a 3.5 engine rated around 205hp. (or so) and it would move pretty well. But the 4 speed transmission in those cars were suspect with mostly bad sensors on the input and output shafts and lots of people had issues with them and under warranty a lot of times. But, I found that by just replacing the fluid (it was semi synthetic ATF III at the time) and adding a Lube Guard Anti Shudder additive that it would work perfectly for 30,000mi. And that was the recommended change interval on that transmission anyway so yeah it would start to studder again and I'd just do another fluid r/r and it was good again. So yes, changing the fluid (and probably the Honda stuff has the anti shudder additive in it already) does the trick.
 

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Thanks for posting this . I'm having the same issue on my 17 Ridgeling. It's exactly as you described it. The tachometer bounces and everything. I'm out of warranty, so I'm wondering how much it will cost me to have the TSB and transmission flush done.
I went in to the dealership and they did a computer update and three drain and fills on the transmission. This appears to have fixed the issue. All of this was under the TSB which effectively extends the warranty for this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I’ve been experimenting with the “ECON” button on and off since I bought my 2017 RTL-E. It seems to add about 1mpg overall.

However, I decided to leave it on permanently because it dampens throttle sensitivity and prevents jackrabbit starts, which is nice.

I’ve since noticed throttle pulsing when going up mild inclines. Even though I hold the accelerator pedal rock steady, a slight engine load will cause the engine to pulse. It’s easily felt and the tachometer confirms it.

Anyone else experiencing similar ?
Judder was back again. Just picked up my truck from Honda service after 2 days. They flushed the transmission again and the problem went away again, all under the TSB warranty extension, so no charge. Thankfully, they put in writing that if it happens a 3rd time, that “at least” the torque converter will have to be replaced.
 
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