2010, with 65,000 miles.I'm getting a transmission "shudder" @ 1500-2000 RPM, 30 to 45 MPH, light throttle. Feels like rumble strips. Goes away when accelerating or pushing D3 button on shifter. Did the tranny drain and refill twice, 200 miles apart..Changed Tranny fluid 2 times before, rear diff fluid 2 times..Realize it may have to do with torque converter.. Anyone have this and a repair for the shudder.??.
Transmission Shudder
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That could be it. More so at low speeds.
I had the same in my 11 RTS and was told it was the normal for the RL. Don't notice it in my 2014. There are quite a few posts about shudder/hesitation around 40mph.
Here's one.....
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14378
Here's one.....
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14378
Your "problem" sounds like what many others have posted. My truck (06, 100Kmiles) does it to some degree as well but I never noticed it until a year or so ago. I have switched over to DW-1 but still notice the rumble when I am lugging along at around 45mph (your 30mph seems pretty low for what I and others are experiencing)
I am due for another transmission fluid / front transfer change and will see if the "rumble" is effected.
Basically it seems that many Ridgelines make this noise / vibration and that transmission failure is NOT imminent.
One thought I had is that rather than it being a true transmission problem, it MAY be a function of motor / transmission mount condition. Vehicles with worn / damaged mounts may exhibit the sound / vibration to less or more degree depending on mount condition. There have been a number of posters who have needed to replace there engine mounts, and it is reasonable to assume that the mounts loose their effectiveness at dampening vibration over time. Perhaps the "normal vibrations" from the drive train that are being produced during specific conditions are being felt / heard because of mount condition? Just a theory . . . .
I am due for another transmission fluid / front transfer change and will see if the "rumble" is effected.
Basically it seems that many Ridgelines make this noise / vibration and that transmission failure is NOT imminent.
One thought I had is that rather than it being a true transmission problem, it MAY be a function of motor / transmission mount condition. Vehicles with worn / damaged mounts may exhibit the sound / vibration to less or more degree depending on mount condition. There have been a number of posters who have needed to replace there engine mounts, and it is reasonable to assume that the mounts loose their effectiveness at dampening vibration over time. Perhaps the "normal vibrations" from the drive train that are being produced during specific conditions are being felt / heard because of mount condition? Just a theory . . . .
Questions:
- Are you running stock wheels & tire size?
- Do you have a lift kit installed?
- Have you had any axles replaced, and if so were they aftermarket?
- Have you had brake work done recently?
- Have your discs ever been replaced?
- Are your brakes serviced by professional shop?
- Ditto the question about motor mounts (resonant vibrations that might not usually be felt, could "get past" worn out mounts).
- Has your truck ever bottomed out off road (underside hit rocks, etc.)
- Have you ever seen green fluid under your truck (motor mount fluid)
- Are you using Honda DW1 & Honda VTM-4 fluids on those changes you mentioned?
Just looking for clues as to your root cause, and the answers to these could provide some. I know it sounds like it's transmission related due to the D3 behavior, but I wouldn't rule out anything.
I have :Stock wheels and tires
No lift kit
Axles never replaced
Serviced rear calipers last fall, lubed slider pins and checked pads
Front and rear pads and rotors replaced over a year ago
I did the brake work
Never off road or bottom out
Green fluid, maybe from motor mounts, I'll look for that
Used Honda DW1 and VTM fluid
Thanks for the reply & suggestions..
No lift kit
Axles never replaced
Serviced rear calipers last fall, lubed slider pins and checked pads
Front and rear pads and rotors replaced over a year ago
I did the brake work
Never off road or bottom out
Green fluid, maybe from motor mounts, I'll look for that
Used Honda DW1 and VTM fluid
Thanks for the reply & suggestions..
Yes, maybe ignore it & chalk it up to normal, and I can live with that, but it wasn't there for 65K miles & now it's happening..
Everybody doesn't have this issue... and if you did not before, I guess I'd look at mounts some more. Tough issue to nail down. While many "live with it"... I would not label it "characteristic".... at least not universally.
You're sure it's not a tire issue, it sounds like.... but I'd rotate just to rule out a bad tire. Tires are all wearing evenly I presume.
One thing you could be dealing with I suppose is the center bearing on the propeller shaft????
Really grasping at straws, but you said it goes away when you accelerate or go to D3. Both of those actions change the load on the drive train at least momentarily, which would break a resonance type vibration. The question of course is where that is coming from.
More speculative points of wonder..... wheel bearing, ball joint? Without other symptoms it's just hard to know.
You 'might' want to take it to a very good "front end" shop & ask them if they can do a "powered" test (dyno or whatever) to trace your vibration. It can't hurt to ask. It can't cost too much & you might find out something.
One last Hail Mary thought: Next time you're recreating this vibration, push off your VSA and see if you get any change.... I really don't expect you will, but it's one more thing to rule out.
Good Luck... I'm not optomistic
You're sure it's not a tire issue, it sounds like.... but I'd rotate just to rule out a bad tire. Tires are all wearing evenly I presume.
One thing you could be dealing with I suppose is the center bearing on the propeller shaft????
Really grasping at straws, but you said it goes away when you accelerate or go to D3. Both of those actions change the load on the drive train at least momentarily, which would break a resonance type vibration. The question of course is where that is coming from.
More speculative points of wonder..... wheel bearing, ball joint? Without other symptoms it's just hard to know.
You 'might' want to take it to a very good "front end" shop & ask them if they can do a "powered" test (dyno or whatever) to trace your vibration. It can't hurt to ask. It can't cost too much & you might find out something.
One last Hail Mary thought: Next time you're recreating this vibration, push off your VSA and see if you get any change.... I really don't expect you will, but it's one more thing to rule out.
Good Luck... I'm not optomistic
I have exactly the same problem, 2006 model, 170,000 miles, have never had any vibration until now, have taken to the dealer, they think I'm crazy. I realize the previous posts are dated...has anyone been successful at getting this issue resolved, living with it is not an acceptable resolution.
Yes I also found other posts on this issue, however the only other fix I saw was a new torque converter..If I can't find anything, I may try a recommended transmission shop for diagnosis.. There is an additive called Dr. Tranny Lubeguard Shutter Fixx. I recall using that on my Chysler mini van a few years back and it worked.
http://www.autobarn.net/inshudfixbyd.html?site=google_base&gclid=CjwKEAjwiq-oBRC9gvHCsvDdn2cSJACV3DFRfxnOV3U0G7_LD1AkLkI8qgYMxSHrjfXzJhKYMPlP-BoCFvjw_wcB
http://www.autobarn.net/inshudfixbyd.html?site=google_base&gclid=CjwKEAjwiq-oBRC9gvHCsvDdn2cSJACV3DFRfxnOV3U0G7_LD1AkLkI8qgYMxSHrjfXzJhKYMPlP-BoCFvjw_wcB
I have a 2008 Honda Ridgeline and at 45 to 50mph I get a rattling sound from underneath the truck towards the rear that goes away with acceleration or by letting up on the gas. The local Honda dealership said they don't know what it is. A local Japanese repair shop said they don't know what is causing the rumble. I need to pull my bass boat this summer and am living in fear of a transmission failure while pulling the boat. I only get the sound when I stay at the same speed for a while. Maybe 1/2 mile. Any suggestions. Honda changed the fluid but the problem continues. So far I've spent 250.00 and nothing has been rectified.
Could be torque convertor shudder but that doesn't typically sound like a rattling sound nor does it typically seem to come from the rear of the truck. You might want to start a new thread . . .
If its higher pitched it could simply be a heat shield.
You could check your driveshaft for crud on it and take a look at its support bushings.
Have you serviced your rear VTM4 unit regularly and with the proper Honda fluid?
How do the rear drive axles look?
Why can't the local shops do a proper diagnostic?
If its higher pitched it could simply be a heat shield.
You could check your driveshaft for crud on it and take a look at its support bushings.
Have you serviced your rear VTM4 unit regularly and with the proper Honda fluid?
How do the rear drive axles look?
Why can't the local shops do a proper diagnostic?
I have the same issue with my 2010 rts. Bought used with 125k miles and after a while notices shudders and shakes around 20-40 mph. Usually after a sharp turn left or right but sometimes from just stop and go in a straight line. Along with the shutter it makes a louder noise around 20-30 mph at a shift point that one mechanic said might be toque converter. Two different honda shops and another with a honda tech but none can replicate while they are testing it. No shop said they understood what was wrong so none of them would really look into the issue. Vt4m fluid changes were what they recommended but was just waste of money . I had the front axles replaced but still shudders. Only temp fix was transmission fluid change and problem came back months later.
Has anyone had any luck with fixing the issue?
Has anyone had any luck with fixing the issue?
Suggestion.
To those who are stating they think it’s a Transmission issue, do more than 1 Drain & Fill, (DnF) a minimum 3 to 4, 3 gets like high 70% range, 4 gets into upper 80%, 5 gets into upper 90%, after that it’s maybe 15-20 more changes to get the 100% new fluid. Basically one change is 3.5qts of an 8.5qt system. If it we me I would do them with weekly frequency over 3-4 weekends. Or even every 50-100 miles. Since you’re basically buying an unknown with over 100k miles, it would be a good baseline for ensuring that you have clean ATF. then work down from there.
To those who are stating they think it’s a Transmission issue, do more than 1 Drain & Fill, (DnF) a minimum 3 to 4, 3 gets like high 70% range, 4 gets into upper 80%, 5 gets into upper 90%, after that it’s maybe 15-20 more changes to get the 100% new fluid. Basically one change is 3.5qts of an 8.5qt system. If it we me I would do them with weekly frequency over 3-4 weekends. Or even every 50-100 miles. Since you’re basically buying an unknown with over 100k miles, it would be a good baseline for ensuring that you have clean ATF. then work down from there.
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This solved my problem. I have 282xxx kms and still running great.
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
LUBEGARD Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant
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