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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline RTL but this probably applies to all Ridgelines. A while back my truck electronic lock and latch quit working. The trunk would only open with the master key. I searched here and on the web but couldn't find a solution. Well today I found and fixed the problem and thought I should post it in case this happens to someone else.

To reiterate: my trunk would open using the master key manually but it seemed like it would not unlock either using the button on the remote or the master door lock on the driver side door. It would not open if I tried to use the trunk release button on the right side off the lid.

As it turns out the rubber membrane over the trunk release button had become unseated, worked it's way up and had jammed the contact - thus jamming the button and lock. Here's a pic of that membrane (now correctly reseated)



I took a pair of needle nose pliers and gently pulled the membrane down until it "popped" back into it's correct position. That released the contact and now the trunk latch and lock are operating correctly.

No idea how I screwed it up in the first place but at least it was an easy fix. Hope it helps somebody else in the future.

PS. Forgive any typos, I'm on my iPhone.
 

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I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline RTL but this probably applies to all Ridgelines. A while back my truck electronic lock and latch quit working. The trunk would only open with the master key. I searched here and on the web but couldn't find a solution. Well today I found and fixed the problem and thought I should post it in case this happens to someone else.

To reiterate: my trunk would open using the master key manually but it seemed like it would not unlock either using the button on the remote or the master door lock on the driver side door. It would not open if I tried to use the trunk release button on the right side off the lid.

As it turns out the rubber membrane over the trunk release button had become unseated, worked it's way up and had jammed the contact - thus jamming the button and lock. Here's a pic of that membrane (now correctly reseated)



I took a pair of needle nose pliers and gently pulled the membrane down until it "popped" back into it's correct position. That released the contact and now the trunk latch and lock are operating correctly.

No idea how I screwed it up in the first place but at least it was an easy fix. Hope it helps somebody else in the future.

PS. Forgive any typos, I'm on my iPhone.
Thanks for the lead on the micro switch assembly . I had this issue with my Ridgeline the release was not functioning and had to use the key to open the trunk. I disassembled my Ridgeline latch and found that the issue was inside the release rubber push button assembly where the micro switch sits. The metal stamping the micro switch is attached too was slightly bent towards the mechanism that triggers the switch so the switch did not disengage. ( probably a manufacturer defect ) I bent the metal of the stamping with the switch on it back away from the mechanism so it can fully open. The trunk release release works like a Champ now .. thanks R.C.
 

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I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline RTL but this probably applies to all Ridgelines. A while back my truck electronic lock and latch quit working. The trunk would only open with the master key. I searched here and on the web but couldn't find a solution. Well today I found and fixed the problem and thought I should post it in case this happens to someone else.

To reiterate: my trunk would open using the master key manually but it seemed like it would not unlock either using the button on the remote or the master door lock on the driver side door. It would not open if I tried to use the trunk release button on the right side off the lid.

As it turns out the rubber membrane over the trunk release button had become unseated, worked it's way up and had jammed the contact - thus jamming the button and lock. Here's a pic of that membrane (now correctly reseated)



I took a pair of needle nose pliers and gently pulled the membrane down until it "popped" back into it's correct position. That released the contact and now the trunk latch and lock are operating correctly.

No idea how I screwed it up in the first place but at least it was an easy fix. Hope it helps somebody else in the future.

PS. Forgive any typos, I'm on my iPhone.
 

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I had a similar issue, turns out the rubber membrane over the release button lost its elasticity and would not flex. This was preventing the switch from being released after being depressed to open the trunk. I have not replaced the rubber membrane, just disconnected the switch for now.
 

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Solved!! By activating the trunk lock switch in the glove box, the tailgate locks with the doors. In the down (off) position, the tailgate latch remains locked.
 
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