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I'm also interested, but the added weight of my Elemmat bed cover is substantial (plus it's a bit stiff to fold over) and presently use a piece of 1/2"x3" wood cut to the proper length to hold the trunk lid open
 

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I am very interested in what you come up with. Currently I use a toilet plunger.:eek:



I should probably switch out the plunger for the cane tip idea.....:cool:
 

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WHY NOT JUST BUY AN INEXPENSIVE GAS STRUT KIT AT ANY AUTO SUPPLY STORE AND INSTALL IT TO HOLD UP THE TRUNK!!!!!!!!
DO YOU THINK THE EXISTING SPRING IN THE TRUNK CAN BE ADJUSTED TO GIVE IT MORE TENSION? Has any one tried to adjust the spring in the trunk?

Vinnie:D
 

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WHY NOT JUST BUY AN INEXPENSIVE GAS STRUT KIT AT ANY AUTO SUPPLY STORE AND INSTALL IT TO HOLD UP THE TRUNK!!!!!!!!
DO YOU THINK THE EXISTING SPRING IN THE TRUNK CAN BE ADJUSTED TO GIVE IT MORE TENSION? Has any one tried to adjust the spring in the trunk?

Vinnie:D
I "procured" a set of struts that were destined for the trash at my work and temporarily positioned them to assist the lid-springs. The "rub" is getting them positioned permanently with some type of mounting hardware. It seemed like a simple task until I actually looked at the area where the hardware would be needed (in my case, anyways). The cylinders I tried have mounting-holes on both ends, one of which easily slipped over the end of the spring and could be secured there with a clamp. The other end would need to be secured to the inside of the trunk where there is very little room to work. IMO, the composite of the trunk would need to be reinforced in that area to make the installation fail-proof. I've not done any further investigation into those possibilities.
The area where I positioned the struts kept them out of the way of anything that I'd load into the trunk, but in the event that something would strike them, or get in their way upon opening/closing the lid, they'd have to be able to "take the hit", and not fail.

From what I saw while I messed-around with the lid, there is no way to "adjust" the springs. They are alot more heavy-duty than what I imagined. Without completely removing the assembly to see if the springs can be repositioned for more "torque", there's really no way to tell by just looking at them. I sincerely doubt I'd be able to wind one another 360degrees without either breaking it or the attached mounting bracket.
If by some stretch I WAS able to do it, the lid probably could then be used as a trebuchet... :eek: ;) :D

I, for one, am staying tuned to this thread to see what Fig comes up with. I realize it's no small feat to design something like this while touching all the bases.

edit: I should mention, for those that might be "on the fence" about adding a bed mat, that the tension of the springs (mine) is "nearly adequate". By this, I mean that, although when I am parked on a level grade, the lid doesn't stay up with the spring tension, when I am parked facing down, on the grade of my driveway, the springs DO keep the lid open. My drive is sloped approx. 25 degrees, however. So, my belief is that they (the springs) wouldn't need much "help" to raise/keep the lid up with the added weight of a mat.
 

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A likely collapsible triple hinged mechanism would be needed on either side, sacrificing some trunk space. Think of an accordian type fold in a W shape when collapsed supported by cross braces and springs. It would be difficult to do, but I can see it being done.
 

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A likely collapsible triple hinged mechanism would be needed on either side, sacrificing some trunk space. Think of an accordian type fold in a W shape when collapsed supported by cross braces and springs. It would be difficult to do, but I can see it being done.
I may be way-off, but do you mean sorta like the sliding, locking hinge on a piano bench lid? Yep, I can see that as a workable solution. Similar to the hinges on the lid of an old "cedar chest"?
 

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I haven't investigated it yet but is there a way to increase the tension on the existing spring/torsion setup. or something to add that would give it a little boost?
 

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I have a tonneau cover (OEM) on my truck. I have looked at the possibility of a prop rod attached to the bottom of the tonneau that would unclip and set into a bracket that would attach to the side rail the tonneau uses. This would be for holding up the tonneau! However after that is done it would be easy to make a rotating latch to hold the trunk lid to the bottom of the tonneau. I will work on this in the spring because it's too darn cold here to mess with it yet but it doesn't look like it will be too hard to do.

I haven't given much thought to doing it without the tonneau.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Sorry guys, I had a couple of things bombard me the last month.

Still have this on the list, trying to get some time on it. It sounds like some good brainstorming is going on in this thread though :)

Fig
 

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Fig:

I am still interested in getting the TRUNK PROP. I really like my FIGS HOOD PROP. I mentioned earlier that I will problably end up with the FULL METAL JACKRABBIT by PACE. I would be interested if I will be able to open the trunk all the way with the FULL METAL JACKRABBIT. Please let me know when the TRUNK PROP will be available.

Lex Luthor:D
 

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Lex_Luthor - i also have the Full Metal Jack Rabbit cover and the rails on the FMJR will stop the trunk from fully opening. . . but not by much.

I also have a bed mat at use a PVC pipe fitted with rubber tips to prop the trunk open.

If FIG's Trunk Props are strong enough to support the weight of a bed mat, then put me on the list to get one.

BTW FIGS Hoop Prop ROCs :D
 

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Discussion Starter #36
a few pics for you guys to digest. I need to get these fabbed up and tested on the test truck :)

A gas strut between them of course.
Can someone remind me what the hand tightened screw cap is for (spare tire I think.)
Does the RL have a wrench in the spare kit that you can access? I am debating using the stock hand wheel fastener or providing my own fastener for you guys to hold down the lower bracket.




 

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looking good fig

madi05
 

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Screw down cap is for the spre. and there is a lug wrench in the tool kit.
 

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Might I suggest;
A problem with the gas struts is going to be, as far as I can see, matching to the various loads for the needs of users with different things on top of the lid.
There exists an old design which uses a rod hinged on the top end, and having a nailhead-looking doo-dad at a right angle on the lower end which fits into a horizontal slot that runs for and aft. When the lid is raised, the doo-dad slides along in the slot and drops into a notch when the lid is fully raised. To close the lid, you lift the lid and push the rod slightly forward back into the slot and lower the lid, causing the doo-dad to return to the forward end of the slot.
I think a high-tech, well engineered, version of this would work perfectly. The only weight consideration would be maximum weight expected.
Anyway, I want one, whatever and whenever it's ready.
exA4
 

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I just remembered, a similar device is sometimes used at the top of an electrical substation door to keep the door open while you're inside.
 
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