Truxx lift and 265/70/17 on stock rims

25917 Views 34 Replies 16 Participants Last post by S.T.U.V, Apr 3, 2015

Tarquinn09

Discussion Starter · Jul 1, 2009

I know this is a topic that has had much disscussion (without a DEFINITIVE ANSWER) but I just purchased the truxx 2'' lift and I am purchasing new tires also (nitto terra grappler AT or toyo open country At's). I'm keeping the stock rims that come on the RT model. Ive heard many people have had to do pinch weld trimming and mud flap removal to have no rubbing issues. I currently have NO mud flaps on my truck...I'm wondering if I will HAVE to do pinch weld trimming or does it fluctuate from truck to truck? I'm torn between the 265/70/17 (31.57 diameter)or should i be safe and get the smaller 255/70/17? I don't want a 275 tire because of the stock rims and i don't want a tall narrow 245 tire. I drive mostly on road but on occassion travel the 2 ruts out to hunting camp here in northern Michigan. Any input on this with anyone who has been in these shoes is much appreciated...Thanks

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speedypeety23

· #2 · Jul 1, 2009

I want to do the same only with bigger tires and rims. Any suggestions?

TigerRidge

· #3 · Jul 1, 2009

3

I don't know how you say this isn't definitive. I personally have about 4 threads discussing my setup that includes a truxx lift and 265/70-17 BFG A/T's.

YOU HAVE TO TRIM THE PINCH WELDS!!! There is no way any year model truck will run those tires without shaving some metal! I had not shaved anything (only removed mudflaps) when I got the tires put on and they rubbed like crazy during my drive to the garage where I did the shaving.

The order of the pictures goes: Before shaving. Pic of shaving. After shaving

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Stackedape

· #4 · Jul 1, 2009

I second that, I have left extensive detail as well. After installing 265/70 BFG A/T's I needed to grind 75% of pinch weld in the travel area of the tire, I actually modified the mud flaps by cutting out the inner lining of them so they are actually not as thick and managed to get them back on with the new tires and lift installed.

TigerRidge

· #5 · Jul 1, 2009

Stackedape said:
I second that, I have left extensive detail as well. After installing 265/70 BFG A/T's I needed to grind 75% of pinch weld in the travel area of the tire, I actually modified the mud flaps by cutting out the inner lining of them so they are actually not as thick and managed to get them back on with the new tires and lift installed.

In order to get NO rubbing for any scenario (bumps, lock-to-lock, etc.), I actually shaved through the entire pinch weld and then came back a TIG welded a new bead.

There's just no way to run a 265/70-17 without extensive wheel well modification.

Tarquinn09

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 1, 2009

shaving off 75% seems like a lot.....will that affect the trucks strength or rigidity at all?

TigerRidge

· #7 · Jul 1, 2009

Tarquinn09 said:
shaving off 75% seems like a lot.....will that affect the trucks strength or rigidity at all?

No. It's a pinch weld. I hope to God Honda doesn't stake the rigidity of the truck on pinch welds.

SilverRidge08

· #8 · Jul 1, 2009

Like others have posted here, you need to trim the pinch welds....Period! I have BF Goodrich M/T's 245/70/17 and had to trim the pinch welds.

Tarquinn09

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jul 1, 2009

Thanks for the help guys! Sorry for a topic thats been somewhat repetitive...I just wanna make sure I'm doing the right thing. I don't need to do any mods or grinding in rear do I? Also, for you guys running the 265's have you noticed any transmission shifting changes or change in ride(floating) because of the large tires?

SilverRidge08

· #10 · Jul 1, 2009

Tarquinn09 said:
Thanks for the help guys! Sorry for a topic thats been somewhat repetitive...I just wanna make sure I'm doing the right thing. I don't need to do any mods or grinding in rear do I? Also, for you guys running the 265's have you noticed any transmission shifting changes or change in ride(floating) because of the large tires?

No need to do any grinding in the rear. My Ridgeline likes to downshift a little more when going up hills on the highway since I put larger tires on. No big deal though!

AndrePS

· #11 · Oct 17, 2009

So, I bought some 265/70/17's and got a truxxlift. Thanks for all the info on the site guys.
Grinded down the pich weld. at least 1/4" and when i put the plastic back on, it still rubs. Do I need to grind that pich weld all the way down flat to where its with the wheelwel wall.
There seems to be enough room for the tire to clear when I push on the plastic. Is there way to push that plastic further back? Suck it in with some how, like a pan head screw? What did you guys do?
thanks.

TigerRidge

· #12 · Oct 18, 2009

I trimmed mine down all the way past the weld, and then came back with a TIG weld. I haven't found a way to push the plastic back any further, however since there is nothing behind the plastic but space, it doesn't make a noticeable noise when the tire hits. The only audible rubbing occurs when the tire hits something solid. That only occurs in extreme articulation.

AndrePS

· #13 · Oct 18, 2009

Thanks Tiger.
I did end up grinding down almost all of the pinch weld where the tire rubs and then some.
Don't have TIG weld, so I just used wire feed and did some good size tack welds and grinded down to have nice smooth surface.
Had some left over teflon paint from my wheel project which is almost identical and put on a quick coat so I dont have any exposed metal. not that it rains in southern cali. but just to be sure.
anyways.
It still rubs when I turn and hit a driveway. Even thought its the plastic and nothing behind it, I still dont like it.

To tell you the truth I wish I would have gone 265/65/17.
but I sure do like the look of 70 series.

TigerRidge

· #14 · Oct 19, 2009

AndrePS said:
Thanks Tiger.
I did end up grinding down almost all of the pinch weld where the tire rubs and then some.
Don't have TIG weld, so I just used wire feed and did some good size tack welds and grinded down to have nice smooth surface.
Had some left over teflon paint from my wheel project which is almost identical and put on a quick coat so I dont have any exposed metal. not that it rains in southern cali. but just to be sure.
anyways.
It still rubs when I turn and hit a driveway. Even thought its the plastic and nothing behind it, I still dont like it.
To tell you the truth I wish I would have gone 265/65/17.
but I sure do like the look of 70 series.

I've also noticed some subtle differences between the left and right sides as well (most likely due to asymmetric grinding on my part). Turning left and hitting a bump seems to rub a slight bit more than turning right and hitting a bump. In fact, I hardly ever hear anything from the right side anymore.

AndrePS

· #15 · Oct 23, 2009

2

Here is how she looks when cleaned up a little.

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92se-r

· #16 · Nov 25, 2009

So would a 265/65/17 fit without any rubbing? I'm talking about with full articulation.

Should I get a 245/70/17 instead? Pros and cons?

07_rtx

· #17 · Nov 25, 2009

I'm pleased with my 245/70s. They didn't rub at all until I changed to a different off set rim. But on stock rims they didn't require any modification

AndrePS

· #18 · Nov 25, 2009

yeah the 265/65/17 or 245/70 is the way to go. Plus I have a 245/70/17 for a full size spare on an extra wheel.

92se-r

· #19 · Nov 25, 2009

Awesome. Will the 265/70/17 fit in the spare tire carrier? Also, if worse came to worse, and I had to use a doughnut, where should I put it if I had a flat? The front diff is an open diff right? So I should be fine putting the doughnut up there?

07_rtx

· #20 · Nov 25, 2009

I highly doubt a 265 will fit in the spare tire. A 245 is a pretty tight fit. I never run donuts on the front just because its my steering tires. If it blows out while on the back its not as dangerous as the front

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