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I figured I would share my findings regarding ujoint replacements for the RL drive shaft. Honda calls this the propeller shaft and it runs from the front transfer case to the VTM4 differential unit in the rear. The shaft has two ujoints and one center support bearing. Honda sells the entire unit only for a price of $450-$600 depending on where you look. FYI, aftermarket units go for around $400-500 and used for about $250-$350 depending on the mileage.

I removed the drive shaft from my 150K 07 RL to diagnose a vibration issue. I found the ujoints on both ends were binding significantly. Having replaced ujoints on other drive shafts I decided to try and replace these. I did research on staked in ujoints, which is what Honda uses. This means they are not serviceable (according to Honda).

I found a company called Rockford Drive that sells replacement joints for staked driveshafts (430-12). They work by using an inside lockup (snap ring) to hold the cap in the yoke. To install you need to press out the OEM staked joints. De-burr the flange and then press in the new joint. Once seated you can snap on the lock ring.

It sounds easy enough, but I can say it is a job. The ujoints are not made to fit the oem yoke flange so fitment is not precise. The flange tapers on the lock ring surface, so the rotation of the ring affects the depth of the cap. Bottom line the surfaces of the flange were not designed for a replaceable u-joint with a snap ring. You need to balance the caps to make sure the joint is centered and not binding.

Considering you cannot replace the center support bearing or slip joint I would say replacing the u-joints is a partial restoration of the propeller shaft assembly. If you bought a new shaft or even a newer one, all these components would be replaced at once. Considering how easy it is the remove the propeller shaft but how hard it is to replace the ujoints, I would recommend replacement of the assembly to all but the most gung-ho shade tree mechanics.





 

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Good job on taking the time to figure this out!! Keep us updated on how they do.


"Considering how easy it is the remove the propeller shaft but how hard it is to replace the ujoints, I would recommend replacement of the assembly"

^+1
 

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Who says we don't get down to every nut and bolt, and every nook and cranny on this truck!
Great job researching and getting the job done!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks!

This place is an invaluable resource for me, so I try to give back when I can.
 

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Fabulous information! Thanks for sharing.

To quote the great Harry Callahan: "a man's got to know his limitations".

Now I know shaft replacement I can do in my driveway but messing with u-joints is beyond my frustration tolerance limit.

Man, this site is awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, there are 8 flange bolts to remove (14mm). There are two for the center support bearing (14mm). Then there are two loops that area held by four bolts (12mm).

The shaft is long and cumbersome, but its easy. Unbolt the flanges and the center bearing and just let it fall into the two shaft loops. Then you can unbolt one side of the loop and let the shaft drop slowly. Easy, easy...

Oh yeah, if you want to have some fun just leave the disconnected driveshaft in the loops and you can drive around in front wheel drive. With the VSA off the RL is capable of some respectable burn outs.

Seriously though, if you do this make sure the drive shaft is secured and out of the way.
 

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Oh yeah, if you want to have some fun just leave the disconnected driveshaft in the loops and you can drive around in front wheel drive. With the VSA off the RL is capable of some respectable burn outs.
Please Tell me you took some Video's....

Seriously though, if you do this make sure the drive shaft is secured and out of the way.
Or provide a better description of what you consider "Secured"
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Please Tell me you took some Video's....



Or provide a better description of what you consider "Secured"
Sorry no vid...

When you un bolt the drive shaft you will see what I mean. It will hang on the loops and it wont fall. However you must do something to make sure it wont slide forward and back. Obviously you need to stay clear of the flanges on the transfer case and diff.
 

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Rear one on my 2010 has a little bit of play in it and has a loud clunk when going from Park to reverse I called Rockford and they only go up to 2008 on the rl. They do not have anything past that listed. Honest I thought has anyone found the cheapest place to get an OEM replacement
 

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The Rockford part info was in a thread from about 3-4 years ago, and it kind of fell off the radar until now. IIRC, it was originally a four-wheeler part, and Rockford saw that a lot of Ridgeline owners were buying it, and relisted it for the RL

Chip H.
 

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It looks like the propeller shaft changed from 2006-2014. But it looks like the early years have had the Propeller Shaft Part number discontinued, and the newer one used. Not sure if this will answer your question.

Link to Majestic below. About $539 + Shipping($42.35 shipping $3.95 handling)
Honda Automotive Parts

Also seems to be available from Amazon with Prime shipping, $572 includes shipping with prime membership https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=40100-SJC-A12
 

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I found a dorman brand on rock auto ND can get it for around 460 shipped. Good thing about the dorman one is that the u joints are serviceable in it.
 

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I can't for the life of me understand why a person would spend so much on a new driveshaft, rather than going to a driveline place and having them repair the thing. I can't even tell you how many truck drivelines I've seen cut, extended, shortened, yokes cut off and replaced, and so on. Many of them for my trucks! :)
 
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I called several shops in the area, that specialize in clutch and joint, driveline shops etc and they all said they sell new ones for the new cars. They do not service them. Not sure if they just don't want to make money in this area, or they just do not know how its done but I tried From Columbus oh to Dayton oh and ended up buying a new one.
 

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...they all said they sell new ones for the new cars. They do not service them. Not sure if they just don't want to make money in this area...
Or perhaps they make _more_ money selling the new ones? Anyway, too bad you couldn't find a shop to do the work. I can drive you straight to one who will, but they're a couple thousand miles from you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Oldish thread here, but I went to several drive line shops to service the propeller shaft and none of them would touch it. The yokes are not designed for an inside snap ring, and most don't duplicate the staking procedure. One shop told me they tried it once and the customer was plagued with vibration issues.

It can clearly be done but its not a fun job, trust me.
 

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Maybe this site may be of some use in the future. Euro-Drive Clutches carries a line of specialty U-joints that are designed to directly replace the 'staked' u-joints found on many different Japanese import cars. Part # RUJ-12 for 2006-2008 Ridgelines.
 

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Good Morning,
Has anyone been able to replace the carrier bearing for the propeller shaft? I have a 2006 RTL and besides the ujoints, my carrier bearing is shot. If no, could someone help with the Honda OEM part number for complete replacement of the rear drive/propeller shaft? Thank you very much.
 

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Good Morning,
Has anyone been able to replace the carrier bearing for the propeller shaft? I have a 2006 RTL and besides the ujoints, my carrier bearing is shot. If no, could someone help with the Honda OEM part number for complete replacement of the rear drive/propeller shaft? Thank you very much.
The propeller shaft, 40100-SJC-A12 is the same for '06-'14. There were different part numbers for different model years, but the A12 is the most recent iteration that replaced all of those. I would recommend that you change the whole shaft with something like a Dorman 936-034. Once you start hacking away at the shaft, it creates an imbalance and you would have to redo your job again.

If you do not mind the wait, https://autotruckpartsonline.com/, has the shaft for under $350 and even with shipping (usually freight) it is under $500 (depending on where you live).
 
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