Ultimate tire fitment chart
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514 Posts
Hey Rebturtle,
Is it still true that?
"#Warning# To date, only Honda technicians can correct your speedometer/odometer, and most are unwilling to do so. Changing tire sizes can alter your speed and mileage readings, as well as confusing the computer inputs required for speed calculations used by the VSA, VTM-4, and transmission shift points."
Anyone else have input/advice on this? Would prefer to put on new tires and get my truck calibrated afterwards.
UPDATE
Found the answer to my own question here:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39528&page=3
Is it still true that?
"#Warning# To date, only Honda technicians can correct your speedometer/odometer, and most are unwilling to do so. Changing tire sizes can alter your speed and mileage readings, as well as confusing the computer inputs required for speed calculations used by the VSA, VTM-4, and transmission shift points."
Anyone else have input/advice on this? Would prefer to put on new tires and get my truck calibrated afterwards.
UPDATE
Found the answer to my own question here:
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39528&page=3
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3,040 Posts
I think you should run what it says on the side wall of your tires! Overfilling can also lead to premature wear.
I would think 40 psi would give you a hard ride instead of a comfy ride.
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336 Posts
In my experience, the larger the tire, the lower the pressure. I would actually experiment with 30-32psi. A tire with more surface area is more prone to "crowning" or bulging at the same pressure as a similar, smaller tire. At the same time, you are spreading the weight of your vehicle over a larger relative contact area with the pavement. High pressures don't allow the tire to "give" properly and conform to the road, which stiffens your ride considerably and lowers not only traction but performance, too.
I learned this lesson back in the day when I lifted my first Ranger. I went from stock 27" street tires to 7" of lift and 33" BFG mud terrains. Not knowing how much air to put in them, I went with the sidewall rating - which was 60 psi. I drove about 2 miles before letting air out. It was so rough and hard to control I thought I had forgotten to tighten the lug nuts. At 28 psi, those tires gave me a smoother ride than the stock ones did, and never had a problem on the corners (Off-road I'd air them down to about 15).
Sorry for the late reply.
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442 Posts
Contact the guy from discount Tire. He posts on this board occasionally. As far as running them at 32 to 35 or higher. If you tow a lot then you will need to bump them up. I think those tires are rated at a max psi rating of 41 for max load. For everyday you would not want them there. I would still think 32-35 would work. My General Grabber HTS tires have a max psi rating of 51 psi for their max load. they handle like crap at 32 psi. Following a thread for this tire on this website I went with 37-38 psi and they handle like a completely different tire. They are rough riding tires at this psi but at least they don't spin on the wet, they don't under steer, and they don't bounce me all over the road now.
Not on the frirst page chart, but installed new GY Wrangler Authority A/Ts in 245/75/17. Rubs the outside of the tireabout 1 steering wheel turns, then is free past that point. Rubs against the mud guard and crimp weld. Worse on passenger side than driver's side (by quite a bit). Trimmed inside portion of mud-guard and will be grinding the weld on the passenger side.
Again, could have saved myself the grief by coming to look here BEFORE getting the tires, but I had just rolled out of the desert on my donut on the front passenger side, and the rear passenger side with a nice bulge on the sidewall from whatever took out the front tire. I saw they were on sale for for $119 (down from $205) and bought them thinking 'those will fit'. Live and learn (and grind...heh).
Again, could have saved myself the grief by coming to look here BEFORE getting the tires, but I had just rolled out of the desert on my donut on the front passenger side, and the rear passenger side with a nice bulge on the sidewall from whatever took out the front tire. I saw they were on sale for for $119 (down from $205) and bought them thinking 'those will fit'. Live and learn (and grind...heh).
Update to the above:
Removed the mudguards and wheel-well plastic to get at the crimp welds yesterday. The weld actually has about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of 'extra' metral on the inside body panel, compared to the outside body panel it is welded to.
I used a cut-off wheel and grinder to remove the 'extra' metal, without grinding the actual weld points themselves. With a bit of judicious plastic trimming, the driver's side now does not rub. The passenger side still needs a bit more plastic trimming, but its not rubbing on the metal (at least in street use).
Strangely (or perhaps not) I found part of the different in the wheel well dimensions is due to a metal bracket and plate that exists on the driver's side, right down at the bottom-rear of the body panel, that does not appear on the passenger side.
Anyway, I took pics as I went along, and I'll post them in a separate thread as soon as I have time (this weekend probably). Again, this is for LT245/75/17, which are not on the front page list. (Goodyear Wrangler Authority A/T)
Removed the mudguards and wheel-well plastic to get at the crimp welds yesterday. The weld actually has about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of 'extra' metral on the inside body panel, compared to the outside body panel it is welded to.
I used a cut-off wheel and grinder to remove the 'extra' metal, without grinding the actual weld points themselves. With a bit of judicious plastic trimming, the driver's side now does not rub. The passenger side still needs a bit more plastic trimming, but its not rubbing on the metal (at least in street use).
Strangely (or perhaps not) I found part of the different in the wheel well dimensions is due to a metal bracket and plate that exists on the driver's side, right down at the bottom-rear of the body panel, that does not appear on the passenger side.
Anyway, I took pics as I went along, and I'll post them in a separate thread as soon as I have time (this weekend probably). Again, this is for LT245/75/17, which are not on the front page list. (Goodyear Wrangler Authority A/T)
Did the pics get posted yet?
Please help, I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline RTL and would like to put on the largest tires possible without a lift or any modifications. I live in Northern NY State and would need tires that will handle the winter months. All-Season or All-Terrain and what is the largest I can get?
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11 Posts
I just put a set of Michelene 265/65/17's on and they look and ride great. Give it a beefier look. I think those are as about as big as you can go without rubbing.
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11 Posts
Any big loss if I drop to a set of 235/65/17 ?
I know they are a 1/2 inch small, but is the diff a big one?
I know they are a 1/2 inch small, but is the diff a big one?
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3,040 Posts
I went taller to the 70 series tire, but didn't want to go wider, due to our winters here. You want a skinny tire to dig into the snow rather than a fatter tire that floats on top of the snow and gives you less grip!
Mine are a all season/all terrain tire!
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44 Posts
Do you think a 275/65/18 would work on a lifted ridge??
Of all the sizes available in the chart, you had to pick a size that wasn't there? If you really want to, you can get just about anything to fit if you're open to grind and mods.
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44 Posts
yeah ik tats why i posted it hahah its about a 32" tire so im guessing there will be some cutting haha!!
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