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Undercover SE Tonneau with Vantech J1000 Racks

11K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  smuook 
#1 ·
This is an installation and review of the Undercover SE one-piece hinged tonneua. It is made out of black ABS plastic and comes with everything you need to install it.

https://undercoverinfo.com/undercover-se

I installed this tonneau and rack system per the instructions. I am including them in this writeup. I will also include my commentary and experiences. Although I would consider this a relatively easy install, there are one particular step you don't want to screw up - drilling holes in the cover. To borrow a familiar adage... measure twice, drill once. Also, I highly recommend two people when handling the tonneau. The weight isn't bad, but the size gets a little unwieldy. The hinges have some force to them and can be a little tricky. You need two people to control the cover so you don't damage or scratch anything. And one disclaimer... I am not responsible for your errors. You can always seek the advice of a professional installer, which I am not.

The tonneua cover and all hardware cost me $809.10 from tonneaucoverswarehouse.com. It was on sale for $899.00, I got 10% discount with SAVE10TCW1 code, and free shipping. I got it in 1 week.

In addition, I installed Vantech J1000 rack system from Amazon. I got the 59" light duty in black. The bars are anodized aluminum and the risers are painted steel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TDG3R8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The rack system cost me $196.95 for 2 racks (they come in pairs). These are MUCH cheaper than Yakima, Thule, etc. and good quality imo.

I added some small items which I'll cover later:
- weatherstripping
- o rings
- gaskets material

Also, although not explicitly stated in the tonneau warranty, I'm pretty sure that installing the racks will void the cover warranty. Maybe not for the hinges, hardware, etc, though.

The pictures may look a little deceiving, but the racks DO NOT extend beyond the INSIDE edge of the bed. You can't see them from the front and they are not in the side slip stream.

There are two oh-by-the-ways:
1. You lose some (but acceptable imo) view out the rear window
2. You lose some (but acceptable again) rear trunk opening
I will explain these later.

All that being said - it came out great and I would do it again! :grin:

I've attached pictures of the final product.
 

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#2 ·
It comes in a big box with all the hardware. In addition to the tonneau hardware, it also come with a rail system that the tonneau hardware mounts to. I was a little concerned at the begining with all the parts (which can mean more stuff to break or come lose), but I was pleasantly surprised at how sturdy it was when it was all done.

You have to remove the upper tie downs, install brackets, the you can reinstall tie downs. I inverted the front hook to move it away from the hinge and I also added some corrosion inhibitor on the tie down bolts.
 

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#4 ·
Here are some pictures of the entire system installed. The cover hardware clamps to the rail. It is surprisingly solid.

A little tricking to get on... make sure you use 2 people!

Then twist the start handle to screw it in place. The gas shock just pops into place and has a red lever to release the bottom.

Although it is a one-piece design and you are limited to the height of the bed, it is really easy to remove.

Unscrew the start handle and pop the red lever. Then lift off and you are done.
 

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#5 ·
There is a rubber front seal, but it is not sufficient to make water tight. I bought some rubber foam weather seal from Home Depot. I used this to fill the small gaps, along the entire from end, and also along the entire inner edge of the cap to it couldn't rub the paint if it got misaligned.

I adjusted the front hinge forward to get the cover within 3/8" of the back of cab.

I also adjusted the lock striker plates down to the lowest setting to help remove the up and down slack in the lock rods.
 

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#27 · (Edited)
Great write up! I just purchased a used one myself.

Just curious what is the measurement you used for the front bracket to the bulhead to get the gap you mentioned.

I adjusted the front hinge forward to get the cover within 3/8" of the back of cab.
I also noticed that I have some slight rubbing on the side so I'm think on adding this or this to install along the edge of the cover.

Thoughts?
 
#6 ·
Now the fun part, installing the racks. Getting ready to drill holes in a perfectly good and brand new tonneau cover.

I bought some #8 o rings from Home Depot and some gasket material to make my own gaskets.

This is my opinion, but DO NOT try to align the holes from the outside, do this from the INSIDE based on the inside cover pattern. Also, I did this based on getting the bars 30" apart so I can mount my luggage carrier on it. It also looks symmetrical, at least to me.

The installed rack mounting brackets inside the rectangular indents INSIDE of the gaskets (inside the bed). There are two indents between them. IMO, this ended up being a great setup for this system.

I marked the pilot holed from the INSIDE and centered it in the indent. I used a small drill bit jut to guide the larger 5/16" final bit.

Once I drilled all the pilot holes, a shut the cover and drilled the final hole from the OUTSIDE.

This worked out great in my opinion. The holes were perfect and no rubbing or obstruction of any kind.

The rails are roughly 30 inches apart, which is exactly what I was shooting for because of my roof carrier accessory.
 

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#7 ·
The screws are a little tricking to get into the rack risers, but they will go in. You have to angle them and twist them in place.

You can see I used gaskets that I made from the bracket as a stencil. Also, the bracket makes a good stencil for the cover holes.

There will be a small angle difference in the bracket and the bar. I think this is a good thing. I opted not to try to bend the brackets down. Instead, let the aluminum rack bar bend. It is designed to do that and not will have a slight preloaded upward bend for the load. The bar is actually the most flexible, followed by the cover which is relatively stiff, and the bracket which is very stiff steel.

Then tighten it all down and install the finish parts.
 

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#9 ·
And here are the results of a 2 minute leak test. Remember, I added weather stripping to the front. This would have not have sealed without it for certain. The cover does come with a front gasket but it is not water tight. My driveway it sloped down and I pointed down hill. So all the water ran to the front. This is really the only place it can leak. The racks have o rings and inside and outside gaskets... they are water tight. Watch the video for results.

 
#11 · (Edited)
To address two of the issues I mention before.

1. Rear view. You do lose some rear view with the setup. For my height and seating position, I could see the tailgait WITHOUT the cover installed. I will refer to the defroster lines as a reference. There are 10 window rectangles seperated by the rear view defroster lines. Even with no cover, I lose 1 rectangle due to the tailgate. With the cover only (no rack), I lose a total of 2 rectangles due to the spoiler lip. And with the racks installed, I lose another rectange plus a little more from the racks. So, when it is all done with the entire setup, I am losing the bottom 1/3 of the rear pane. If I raise my neck, I can actually see a gap between the bars. For me, this is acceptable.

2. Rear truck opening. I didn't measure this before, but I did notice that the trunk now hits the rear cover mount. I don't know the exact angle, but you can see it in the picture. For me, this is fine, but I thought I'd point it out.
 

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#17 ·
Great write-up and mod - thanks for posting! Also, thanks for having the guts to drill into a brand new cover!

As an aside, you might try turning your luggage carrier around for the second leg of your trip. Although you might have a less aerodynamic area pushing into the wind, it might be more than offset by less drag behind the vehicle, or maybe not. Would be curious to see MPG with it mounted both ways.
 
#14 ·
Thanks. As you see it, I can open the tonneau about 1/3 of the way total open. The cargo carrier opens fully no problem. I can shift the car carrier back one hole and would be able to open the tonneau more. This was just a test fitting and I'm leaning towards shifting it back. Next weekend will be the real test on my trip.

I already had this carrier and I'm making it work, but if I was going to buy a carrier specifically for this I would consider a slightly smaller size. This one is pretty big and I don't think Ive ever filled it totally.

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#20 ·
Does the Vantech rack hit the rear window stopping the tonneau cover from fully opening?

I have the similar undercover tonneau on my 2019.
No it doesn't. Here is a picture with a full open cover.

It all depends on what you put up there. At some point I just realized that it is a 5 foot bed and I have to be realistic. There are going to be limits that what I can put up there.

But I do have a bike rack also which Im getting ready to try out.


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#21 ·
Thanks for all the detailed information and photos. I'm not confident your leak test was meaningful though. Running water downslope from the back is a lot different than having it pushed in from the front at freeway speeds in heavy rain. I haven't yet succeeded at keeping mine dry inside (different type of cover), and I don't think anyone has--I've only seen others report that they've reduced the water intrusion.

I've filled the little channels & grooves in the bed rail, with good quality weather strip, but I still get water. I'm going to remove that and use caulk. I don't want the use the butyl that others describe as it seems too messy. I'm not sure if water gets sucked up through the drain tubes or if there's some mystery spot where it comes in. I never could figure out how water was getting in the front of my G1 with the shell, weatherstrip, & caulk I had in place, although I know in that vehicle water got into the bed lights, but it seemed to just sit in there and not leak from there to the bed that I could see.

Also, have you sealed around the tailgate? A lot of water & dust can get sucked in. I haven't succeeded at that yet either. I used a good tailgate seal but most of it fell off quickly--it won't stick on curved surfaces. I put old towels in the front corners and more at the back along the bottom & sides of the tailgate. I don't know why manufactures don't make beds so they can be sealed tight, but I'd be happy to pay more for a better design.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for your reply. It was important to perform that standing water test of the front seal because it was leaking from the front without the seal that I added. Water does collect here because of the shape of this cover. By adding the weatherstripping to the front and adjusting it to compress the rubber foam, it made it water tight when it wasn't before. Essentially, this is what that video tested.

But I do agree that the proof is in the pudding. I have not driven in the rain yet under those conditions, so I really don't know yet.

I first attached a picture of the sealing that I currently have.

  • The red is the large factory sealing. Although this is good, it doesn't take care of the small gaps in the front and on the rail system.
  • The yellow is the weatherstripping I added to the front seal. This is really what I was testing on that video.
  • The green is added along the inside edge of the topper as an additional seal. Realize that this topper extends over and down below the edge of the bed. So things have to move up to get in, but highway speed could do this.
  • The blue is the butyl rubber gasket (one inside and one outside) that seals the rail mounts.
  • There are also some small gaps in the front of the bed that I filled with weather seal.

The second picture has an orange circle is the only spot I believe that I may (or may not) be vulnerable to the leakage you described. This is really the only place that a one piece cover could leak under those conditions. It would have to get through my foam (green) and move upward into one of the small gaps. If it does happen, it won't be a large amount. I'll just have to see if and when that happens and adjust accordingly.

I haven't tried the tailgate yet, but I haven't had it long enough to know if I have a problem. If it does become an issue, I'm sure I will try to stop it.
 

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#23 ·
The good news: I finally finished my trip configuration. I have my x-cargo carrier on the left side and my bike right on the right side (blind spot). With this configuration, the gas props won't hold the weight, so I will need some sort of prop system if I want to keep it open. But I can open it pretty good wide now. I am ordering some sofa legs for support in the back of the x-cargo.

The bad news: Soccer tournament is cancelled this weekend due to Thunderstorms. Road trip will have to wait. :mad:
 

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#24 ·
Have you checked to see if your latch rod or mechanism will stay secure even if the cover flexes or moves? I had a cover once with the same basic design as yours, but mine didn't have the struts, just big springs by the cab, and mine had two little latches at the tailgate. It was great for years, but the cover flexed in high winds (80+ mph winds hit me sideways while driving at 85) driving across Nebraska and came open. I got it re-secured, but a couple years later on the Oregon coast I encountered higher winds, 110+ mph, and it flexed & pulled out of the latch mechanism again, opened, and mangled the springs so it wouldn't re-close. I looks like the rod that goes across yours to secure it is probably a much better system, but adding things to the top will catch a lot more wind and pull & bend it. Maybe carry some robe or straps to tie it down if you have a problem.
 
#28 · (Edited)
So I decided to go to a junkyard and I found this....
406250


406256


406252
 
#29 ·
Thanks for reminding me about this thread. I forgot about it.

If it works for you, go for it.

I have the trim in the picture on the front edge.

I use home depot foam on the inside around sides and back - cant see from exterior.

Overall, the cover has been great. The racks have lightened up colorwise to a bronzish color. Look really cool. I get compliments on them.

Zero leaks on racks.

I would call the front edge highly water resistant, but not waterproof. I can get a little seeping up front on hard rain. Just a few ounces. To me its acceptable. It is on a moving vehicle after all.

Im happy with it and havent thought about it in months.

I can get you that measurement and some pics later.

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#30 ·
All I can say is the concept is super cool...from someone that as used the same Extrang Trifecta Classic on my 2017 and 2020 and ratchet straps my two kayaks in the back (although you can fold and leave the tonneau on with the kayaks in place). Nice setup!

 
#31 ·
Pic 1 shows 16 1/4" from the top edge of front bracket. To the bulkhead itself is longer at 17 1/2".

Pic 2 show the gap between cab and cover.

Pic 3 is front seal. Thia ia the one from my previous post

Pic 4 is side and rear foam seal. It ia only on inside and cant see external

I really dont think about this much anymore. At has become part of the truck for me. No issues.


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#33 ·
Nice... I was finally able to adjust mine. Great cover, the only time it leaks is when I open it up and all the water goes down the front. Besides that, its water tight. Thanks again.
 
#34 ·
Nice... I was finally able to adjust mine. Great cover, the only time it leaks is when I open it up and all the water goes down the front. Besides that, its water tight. Thanks again.
TBH, that could be the water I see... it may run down when I open it. It is such a small amount that I dont really care. So I havent tried to track it down.

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