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First UAO for my 17 RL RTL-T. 5k on the oil, 30,000 on the truck. This run was Castrol Magnatec 0W-20 with a Fram TG7317 run for 10,000 miles. My use is mostly short trips, my commute is about 4 miles. Also below is the post on BITOG which also links to 2 UOAs on our 17 Pilot with the same engine. Both engines have a VCMuzzler installed.

Yes I know I could go longer on both of these oils, but I have about 200 qts I've accumulated from AZ and AAP clearances and am going to stick with the easy to track 5,000 mile oil, 10,000 mile filter changes. I do almost exclusively extractor changes now unless I am collecting a sample.


BITOG Post 17 RL & 17 Pilot

396943
 

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  1. You're not concerned with the extra aluminum? You think it's still breaking in the rod bearings? I wonder if 0w20 is too light, putting extra wear on the engine for a tiny amount of extra efficiency. Would be interesting to see the difference 5w20 would have over the same interval.
 

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Am I concerned? No. I am aware that it's a little above average. Yeah, I'd like it to be closer to average, but to get an average, someone has to be above average. But, it seems like these engines seem to stay a little higher longer, like our Pilot and higher Cu. There are other comparable samples that look way worse and I'm not ready to think that there is any kind of long term problem.

Don't know if you looked at the BITOG post, but I will be going to 5W-20 Magnatec next, but I probably won't resample until 45,000 miles.
 

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Am I concerned? No. I am aware that it's a little above average. Yeah, I'd like it to be closer to average, but to get an average, someone has to be above average. But, it seems like these engines seem to stay a little higher longer, like our Pilot and higher Cu. There are other comparable samples that look way worse and I'm not ready to think that there is any kind of long term problem.

Don't know if you looked at the BITOG post, but I will be going to 5W-20 Magnatec next, but I probably won't resample until 45,000 miles.
0-20W and 5-20W are the same after startup. Doubt you'd see any change. If you went to 30W you might but that would effect mileage.
 

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They closed your update post, so I thought I would track you down to thank you for the info... The lack of gauge in "the doctor's" article made me wonder if he was an honorary doctor, turned out he was medical, which negates validity when you realize he would naturally equate oil to blood, and a MedDoc can't really be seriously working on cars...
Anyway, oil is under the squeegie perimeter piston, oil destroyers are above... "upon startup"... logic dictates that the oil that would leave a larger residual coating on the walls of the cylinder, would be the better protector... That coating, until the oil moves, is all we have protecting the piston system, which is where the destructive metals come from...
There was a drag racer in the neighborhood I grew up in... After every race he had to tear his engine apart, clean it, and rebuild it... He did "visual" oil testing, studying the actual wear using different oils and findings the metals... he determined Castrol and Fram to be the best.. Alot has changed since the 70s, but I still use Castrol and Fram in all my vehicles...
As the one (rude?) guy said, Your info is "cool" at best, but still cool, thank you... If you could try other oil and filter combos, and build comparables, in one vehicle so it's all relative, that could be awesome for the youngsters that get your info...
I think from now on I'm going to strain my dirty oils, find and spreadsheet my metals, and try the 5W, I too live in the south, but on the west coast... we get 40F to 100F, a couple days /nights per year...
 
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