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Greetings All,

Today I finished the project. I installed a pair of JDM ASTAR Max 50W LED Bulbs. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MC6RQAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as backup lights. Amazon says they don't fit a 2017 Ridgeline, but they do.

Then I installed the Flood Lamps under the bumper. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZ9VAOI?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

To achieve the light positioning you see in the picture I had to carve a little piece of plastic on the drivers side bumper close to where it bolts to the trailer hitch. You have to climb under the truck to see it.



I soldered the wires for the lights and covered the connections with shrink wrap tubing. I zip tied the wires over to the passenger side light assembly. The wire you want is brown, it is matched with a black wire. You can see in the picture that I used tap splices. After testing that the lights worked I covered the splices with electricians tape and reassembled the light fixture. As another note. I disconnected all the lights from the light assembly because I didn't want it hanging and maybe pull something apart.

 

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The only change I would do is not use crimp on taps. I have a set of wire strippers that on squeezing the handles, one side of the jaw clamps down on insulation and other side cuts through it and the whole thing pulls the insulation apart or off depending on what you are doing. At that point you have a bare spot in the middle. Wrap your wire around a few times and then solder. Put a little dielectric grease on that spot and then use a Good brand electrical tape. The cheap stuff just drys up and starts to unwind.
I don't like the crimp taps because they have a tendency to cut some of the strands of wire you are taping into and weakening it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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Nicely done I like the look and positioning ................ I agree with Robsrtl though and I would've not used the crimps. My reasoning how ever is because its outside of the vehicle and you now have exposed wires. Even though they are taped up moisture can get in there and run its way up the wire corroding it. Dielectric grease would definitely help.
 
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Hey check it out. I did a version of this also! The lights were almost identical to the ones you used. About $40 on Amazon. The big ticket item for me was the wiring harness. It was 23 feet long and $130. But it fit my G2BE perfect. The manufacturer of the wiring harness was Starkey Products. Its their reverse light kit with Deutsch connecters. I can also turn them on and off without having to put them in reverse.
 

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Hey check it out. I did a version of this also! The lights were almost identical to the ones you used. About $40 on Amazon. The big ticket item for me was the wiring harness. It was 23 feet long and $130. But it fit my G2BE perfect. The manufacturer of the wiring harness was Starkey Products. Its their reverse light kit with Deutsch connecters. I can also turn them on and off without having to put them in reverse.
I have the same lights and have yet to do anything with them, I was thinking of splicing them into the cargo light button and just use then as utility lights and not have to run wires and make holes in the dash.

I saved the link though, its a real nice set up !!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey check it out. I did a version of this also! The lights were almost identical to the ones you used. About $40 on Amazon. The big ticket item for me was the wiring harness. It was 23 feet long and $130. But it fit my G2BE perfect. The manufacturer of the wiring harness was Starkey Products. Its their reverse light kit with Deutsch connecters. I can also turn them on and off without having to put them in reverse.
Great job !! I did the wiring harness from the battery on my 2011. I really like the extra light!!
 
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