Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 101 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,332 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, I've just about had it with the weak subwoofer. Just began doing some investigaton into what can be done. I'm not sure of any of my info, but here's what it looks like to me.

Apparently there are no external amps in the Ridgeline. All 160 watts comes from the head unit (either the sub has it's own amp or the 160 watts is peak not RMS... I don't think they could get 160 watts RMS out of a head unit). I really expected there to be an amp in the sub enclosure, and there may actually be one there, but neither the parts catalog or the service manual indicate such.

From what I can see in the service manual there are only two wires going to the sub. If that's the case then we know it's not a powered sub.

Someone posted that the sub enclosure was a "sealed unit". I have never actually seen the unit, but it would seem hard to believe there's no way to take it apart.

I'll throw out some questions... if anyone can shed some light on any of them or add to the issue it will be apprecaited.

Is the sub enclosure really "sealed"... can't be disassembled without damage?

How many wires actually run to the sub enclosure? Any power going to it?

I can see there's a pigtail connector coming out of the sub... what kind of connector is on it? If it's some kind of standard connector it will be easy to create an upgrade sub enclosure as plug and play!

Some of you that have taken the rear seat out or have seen the sub enclosure please chime in here!

Thanks,
-Joe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,332 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
mugen1 said:
Pioneer 10 inch sub in a plastic ported enclosure. Two wires.

160 watts from a deck is normal nowadays. 35 watts x 4 @ 4 ohm and under 1% THD is the norm for high powered decks.

There might be an external sub amp in the vehicle. When I took apart the dash to install an aftermarket deck, I saw what looked like an amp behind the lower dash.

I've got pics of hte sub enclosure if you really want to see it.
10" you say? I thought it was an 8" sub. I see several articles that call it 8"... here's what Edmunds says:
"Our test truck was the high-line RTL model, which additionally includes an in-dash six-disc CD changer, 160-watt amplifier, an 8-inch subwoofer behind the rear seat and standard XM Satellite Radio."

The service manual shows no external amps. The MDX manual shows the two external Bose amps in that model so I have to believe it would show them for the Ridgeline if they existed.

Have you taken apart the sub enclosure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
8" sub inclosed in a sealed unit which can't be disassembled, BOSE amp in the center of the dash below the IP, sub is connected with a coupler which could be dis-assembled if you could find out where each wire came from ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,332 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
mugen1 said:
My bad, it is an 8 inch. Got mixed up. I'm putting a 10 inch Morel Elite sub in my RL.


In any case, it is ported and in plastic.


http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub1.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub2.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub3.JPG
Where are you going to put the 10" sub? How you going to amp it?

Looks like only two wires going to the factory sub. Going to need an amp that can handle the high level speaker inputs.

-Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
What kind of battery were you using? Optima?

What is the width of the area behind the bed panel? I'm thinking about installing an inverter back there.

Thanks! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
Thanks, it's perfect. I'm planning on using a marine inverter and a Hubbell twistlock socket, with a power strip pigtail.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,332 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
OK, decided to investigate the subwoofer for myself. Here are my findings:

1. The enclosure is not sealed contrary to previously provided information. Clamshell style enclosure held together with about 16 phillips head screws. Nothing special or unusual about the enclosure or taking it apart.

2. To call it a subwoofer is a stretch. It's a very lightweight, cheap 8" speaker.

3. It's a non-amplified unit. Only two wires in, simple wiring, no amplifier.

Here are a few pics:
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
635 Posts
My RTS has plenty of bass in my opinion. I was playing a Cheyle Crow Greatest Hits CD great album realy bad mix.
It had so much bass in it I had to turn the subwoofer off and turn the bass off.

I guess if you guys that are upgrading your subwoofers may want to get this CD, if you go four weelin and get all muddy you could probably rattle all the dirt clods off if you crank it up enough.

Or maybe put a twenty incher in the trunk and some of those twenty two inch wheels and you will have the makings of a first class pimpmobile.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,332 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
STEVE FROST said:
My RTS has plenty of bass in my opinion. I was playing a Cheyle Crow Greatest Hits CD great album realy bad mix.
It had so much bass in it I had to turn the subwoofer off and turn the bass off.

I guess if you guys that are upgrading your subwoofers may want to get this CD, if you go four weelin and get all muddy you could probably rattle all the dirt clods off if you crank it up enough.

Or maybe put a twenty incher in the trunk and some of those twenty two inch wheels and you will have the makings of a first class pimpmobile.
I'm somewhat of an audiophile. I've done quite a bit of work in the sound engineering field over the years although it was never my primary vocation. Have done everything from a redesign of sound booths at RCA Records in the 80's to an Elton John live concert in the 90's.

I'm personally not interested in the rest of the world hearing my bass, but I am interested in accurately reproducing the sound as it was intended. The factory sub is apparently not capable of reproducing a large spectrum of the sub-harmonics assigned to it. It's punchy at what should be the upper range of a subwoofer, but the really low frequencies are completely absent or fall off horribly.

For the average listener the factory system would probably be fine. For anyone that knows what a song should sound like would not be happy with the factory system.

I'm interested in authentic sound reproduction... not what some would call ghetto bass. On the other hand some songs should have bass that shakes the mirrors and felt in your chest. If it is supposed to be experienced in such a way I want it to do it.

The good news is that it appears that the Rideline will be fairly simple to upgrade. The doors will apparently handle 6.5" drivers, and the subwoofer can easily be replaced. The head unit having a subwoofer control will help greatly too.

My plans are not elaborate. Replace the door speakers (hoping the 25 watt per speaker is enough to drive a high efficiency driver without having to amp it). Disconnect the factory sub. Run the factory sub input into a custom enclosure that fits under the rear seats. Will need about a 350 watt mono amp that tolerates high level input well (Alpine?) and a 10 - 12" high quality sub (size depends on what enclosure we can work out). Maybe dual opposed 10's like a Bazooka, but much higher quality would be an option I think (duals would need more power). Haven't measured available area yet (we'll fill a big plastic bag full of shipping foam and close the rear seats down on it to give us a footprint to work with).

It's fun to work with this stuff and I might end up changing it several times before I trade off the truck.

-Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
Nice work in progress mugen1...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Great work so far, guys.
I'm also looking for better sound without "ghetto bass".
More like what csimo wants to do, replacing front speakers and sub with
an amp off the head unit. Worked great in my civic and was invisible.
What about building a sub box to fit into the stock location, to replace that plastic thing?
Looks like you are good at that mugen1. :)
Thanks for the pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
mugen1 said:
Can someone post a pic of the doors naked?

I understand that putting sound deadening material on the doors works wonders for the speakers on Honda vehicles. I know the speakers in the doors only take like 15 minutes to take apart, but it's always better to see the actual thing before starting.



thanks in advance
Definitely need sound deadening.
Try this link for pics. I could'nt get them to show up.
They do explain it a little.
http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17235
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
mugen1, those rubber thingies are called Wellnuts, trademarked, as in Kleenex.

You speak of sound deadening material, do you mean Dynamat or equivalent?

That stock 8" driver looks pretty pathetic. You have me reconsidering selling off my old audio equipment I removed from the Ranger.

I am watching your upgrades closely.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
One of the first things I did to my Ranger was to gut the interior and Dynamat it. My wife thought I was nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
The factory subwoofer does look pathetic, but so does the enclosure. Looks like 1/4" thick at best. Hey mugen1, I know it looks like you solved your battery issue, but have you ever checked out the Tsunami website? They have new batteries ou that produce something like 2250 cca(cold cranking amps) in a package smaller than the Optima Deep Cycle. They also have 40 Farad capacitors among other things. It's worth checking out if you have the time. Best of luck with the system!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,043 Posts
Audio upgrades are right now at the bottom of my list. Would I Dynamat the interior again? Sure. I bought factory second Dynamat to save money. It wasn't quite as pliable at ambient temperature, so I just passed the heat gun over it and it was like first quality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Does any one know how much room there is behind the back seat?
I was looking at getting a Infinity Basslink t.
Dimensions are as follows: (H x W x D): 14-3/8 x 40-3/8 x 6-7/16 if you want more specs. goto:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/category.aspx?Ser=BSL.
Has anyone installed or considered the Basslink t?
I would be very interested in any info. that could be given

Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
There is decent room behind the rear seat, but not enough room for speakers. I added a 10" diamond audio in a fiberglass enclorure underneath the passenger rear seat. It sounds really good. My co-worker used to work for Car Toys and he has everything. He wanted me to do 3- 10's, but I did not want to give up all my space.
 
1 - 20 of 101 Posts
Top