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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Upgrades for my 2017 RTL-T (Purchased as new, dealer demo 5k miles, included Honda tri-fold tonneau cover and Pop-Lock tail gate lock.)

Floor Covers
I was very used to the factory rubber replacement floor covers that I had in my 2008 RTL, so I decided to use the same for the 2017. Purchased new for $113 from Honda dealer on eBay.

In-Bed trunk lights (difficulty: low-to moderate)
The tonneau cover restricts the bed lights from illuminating the in-bed trunk when it is not folded up, so I added two marine grade LEDs to the trunk. These were wired into the bed light circuit so that they come on when the bed lights come on. On the drivers side of the truck bed, I removed the top rail cover and the entire side cover to expose the circuit wiring for the bed light. This also gives very good access to the external surfaces of the in-bed trunk. I mounted two marine grade LEDs in the upper-left sidewall of the trunk. I purchased a box of these to illuminate the console and storage compartments on my boat.

LED Markers

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=348954

Cabin overhead lights, bed lights, license plate lights (difficulty: easy, plug and play)

I purchased a box of 10 LEDs (T10/194, $10) off Amazon which fit and worked well in these locations. I used a small plastic tool that I had for opening the case on an old iPod to access the cabin lights and the truck bed lights. Follow the directions in your G2 manual for removing the license plate light housings. You basically pull the fixture rearward and lift it out of the hole from the forward edge.
T10 Bulbs

Rear Turn Signals (difficulty: low)

Bulbeats 1200 Lm - 744x Series ($16 package of 2 bulbs)

These bulbs, because they are stand-alone and used for turn signals, require resistors. They do not hyper-flash unless the RTL brake pedal is depressed. I purchased a package of four 50 Ohm resistors to use for all four turn signals. Accessing the bulb is fairly easy, remove two 8mm hex bolts and pull the entire fixture rearward from the truck. There are two pole-snaps in the mid-section of the housing, and two clips at the bottom. The vertical surface landing of the truck body under the housing makes a good mount location for the resistors. I used small stainless self-tapping screws to mount the resistors - the holes and screw threads were coated with Rust-oleum clear paint. I applied a coating of JETLUBE dielectric grease to the mount surfaces of the resistors. I used T-Tap connectors to attach the resistors to the positive and negative leads of the signal connectors (the resistors have no polarity). The Bulbeats look and work fantastic.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=348986

JETLUBE: dielectric grease is a wonderful product to use on electrical connections (and an oxidation prohibitor for rubber). What this grease does is prevent air and water from corroding electrical connections. It does not conduct electrically, but DOES conduct thermally and has a very wide service temperature range, which helps to cool heat-dissipating electronic components through conduction.

T-Tap wire splice connectors: instead of using the inline clamp connectors that came with the resistors, I used T-TAPS which perform the same function but give you the ability to plug and unplug these connections. These things are fantastic - wish I had these long ago…

Front Turn Signals (moderate effort, took few hours to work out the procedure on the first bulb, second bulb took an hour)
I wanted to use the Switchback design and tie the white mode to my existing fog lights. I want the ability to turn this feature on and off with the fog lights. When my fog lights are on, these show bright white light. When my fog lights are on and the turn signal is on, the white light feature is turned off and the amber LEDs flash normally as they should for that direction signal. Since these turn signal housings are located right next to the fogs, this just makes sense to me.

Brightstar Switchback - 744x Series ($22 package of 2 bulbs)

These bulbs, because they are stand-alone and used for turn signals, require resistors. Accessing the bulbs is done from underneath the vehicle just aft of the bumper. If you are only replacing the bulbs you can remove a couple of fasteners from the outer plastic covers and push the edge of these covers up into the engine compartment, allowing you to get your hand on the back of the bulb mounts. You could replace both the signals and the fog light bulbs this way. But, if you are doing any wiring, adding resistors, connecting switchbacks, there’s more work ahead. I removed the single large under-engine cover that attaches to these two side covers. There are two phillips screws, several 8mm bolts, and push-snap connectors that hold this cover on. With this cover out of the way, you can easily see the housings for both the signals and the fog lights. I still folded and bungie-secured the two side covers in towards the engine compartment to give more access. There happen to be an electronics device mount platform held by phillips screws in both the left and right vehicle sides of these areas which made desirable mounting locations for the resistors. I had to remove the large flat washer from these screws and use my Dremel to mill out a small portion of the cooling fins on the resistors and enlarge the mount holes on the resistors to 1/4” diameter. The resistors fit well in this location and were held tight - shouldn’t be a problem. I removed a little of the protective shroud on the signal harness to mount the T-Taps for the resistors. I made a 12” length of 14awg wire with a T-Tap spade on one end and I soldered about 5/8” of bare flattened (like a spatula) wire on the other end. I shaped this soldered end using cutters so that it fit into the third unused wire connection of the signal connector. I pushed this end into the connector until it protruded through the connector face about 1/16”, then folded it over flat onto the connector face. This allowed the wire to be held strongly into the unused pole of the connector. The spade on the other end of this wire is connected to a T-Tap which is located on the positive connection of the fog light.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=349002&stc=1&d=1516046675

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=348994&stc=1&d=1516046675

Back-up (Reverse Lights) - completed work (was an easy swap)
I ordered these bulbs to replace the reverse lights, they are very bright - looks like I turned on flood lights behind my truck when I shift into reverse.

Hi-Beam 9005 - Completed work (the only thing hard about the install is that these 9005 LEDs are difficult to get inserted and clocked into position. a bit of silicone grease and wearing a glove helped, but they're in and look fantastic)
I ordered these bulbs to replace the Hi-Beam lights.

Low-Beam and Fog Lights H11 - Completed work (was a very easy swap, installing these H11s was much easier than the 9005s)
I ordered these bulbs to replace the Low-Beam and Fog lights - they look fantastic.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=349010&stc=1&d=1516046675

UPDATE (23 Jan 2018) - completed the LED installs (see above). I also have purchased the WOLO high and low tone horns from O'Reilley's and have manufactured a bracket to mount them right behind the H symbol in the front grill. I am waiting to receive the dual wiring connector I purchased off Amazon. After I powder coat the bracket and install the wiring I'll try to upload a picture. A test of the horns proved that they are pretty darn loud and should complement the stock horn well.

I have received the BedRug Bed Mat and Tailgate Mat from Amazon but have not installed them yet. I ordered a screen protector for the touchscreen and have not received it yet.

Honda horn connectors

BedRug Bed Mat

BedRug Tailgate Mat

Additional 3M Adhesion Promoter (For the BedRug installation)

Screen Protector for Ridgeline
 

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I've been thinking of doing a LED strip in the trunk. You just made it easier to do now. Awesome job and thanks for sharing.
 

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Excellent post, I have the T model AWD and think I might do some of the LED upgrades. Nice pics and descriptions of what you did. I consider the LED the biggest light improvement in the past 100 years.

trainman
 

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"Back-up (Reverse Lights) - completed work (was an easy swap)
I ordered these bulbs to replace the reverse lights, they are very bright - looks like I turned on flood lights behind my truck when I shift into reverse."

Were these just a direct swap or are resistors required?
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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Looking good. My only recommendation is that you relocate the electrical connectors from the bottom of the vehicle to elsewhere (behind the bumper). Though the trim panel will be going underneath, the amount of crap and water that enter the lower part of the front grill will have to come out. Though you have a condenser and radiator to 'filter' them out, you will soon find your electricals weathering in an accelerated pattern. At least tape the 'waterproof' connections with electrical tape.
 

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2017 RTL-E
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In-Bed trunk lights (difficulty: low-to moderate)
The tonneau cover restricts the bed lights from illuminating the in-bed trunk when it is not folded up, so I added two marine grade LEDs to the trunk. These were wired into the bed light circuit so that they come on when the bed lights come on. On the drivers side of the truck bed, I removed the top rail cover and the entire side cover to expose the circuit wiring for the bed light. This also gives very good access to the external surfaces of the in-bed trunk. I mounted two marine grade LEDs in the upper-left sidewall of the trunk.
NICE! Thanks for the write-up.

I was thinking of doing something similar at some point. Either that, or install a micro switch that turns on a battery operated LED when the trunk lid opens.
 

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Bought the inside cabin lights from amazon. Have small plastic tools for cellphones.

Question: I don't want to break anything so, when doing the map/door lights, how do they come out so I don't break anything? Is it the longer side where I should put the tool?

Advice appreciated as I haven't done this before but want to and don't want to break anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is a good source for the procedure - most late hondas use the same mechanisms.
. I used the plastic tool where the video uses a knife edge.
 

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Thanks!

Watched the video. I'll have to try it this week.
I noticed in the video that they don't have those small circular little lights....I'll have to see how accessible those are once I get the bigger area open. Those are all pathetic lights, imho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Right - the bulbs in the video are the ones with the opposed polarity tips - just like the bulbs in my '08 RL. The 17+ RL uses a regular looking configuration bulb, but can be a little tricky to remove (especially when they are incandescent and hot). So here's a little tip to remove them: I used a short piece ( 1 inch ) of flexible fuel or vacuum line that has an ID near 1/2 inch. Simply push the tube onto the old bulb, then use a rocking motion while pulling to get the bulb out. You won't burn your fingers and you won't break the bulb. I used my fingers to install the new 194/T10 LED bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
smufguy - thanks and you're right about that being a rough neighborhood for electrical connections. I just had carpel tunnel surgery on my left wrist, so waiting for that to heal up and get the soft-cast off. I have the aftermarket parts to connect the stock harness to the WOLO horns I've already mounted behind the grill. I have purchased 3/4" split flex-conduit to cover all of these lighting connections. After I get this done, I'll post a follow-up.
 

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2021 Radiant Red RTL
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Thanks!

Watched the video. I'll have to try it this week.
I noticed in the video that they don't have those small circular little lights....I'll have to see how accessible those are once I get the bigger area open. Those are all pathetic lights, imho.
Your RTL-E lights in the overhead console are already LED's.
 
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Your RTL-E lights in the overhead console are already LED's.
Yeah, ZRogers busted my noggin on that already......

DUH!, on me :nerd:

Now, I have a pack of those lights, unopened, and unsure if I can use them to "upgrade" anything on my RTL-E.

Like I have said....I am a novice on a lot of this and trying to learn and better my truck. I just thought those overhead lights SUCKED and these would improve them.....of course, they aren't really "user serviceable"...I found THAT out
 
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Right - the bulbs in the video are the ones with the opposed polarity tips - just like the bulbs in my '08 RL. The 17+ RL uses a regular looking configuration bulb, but can be a little tricky to remove (especially when they are incandescent and hot). So here's a little tip to remove them: I used a short piece ( 1 inch ) of flexible fuel or vacuum line that has an ID near 1/2 inch. Simply push the tube onto the old bulb, then use a rocking motion while pulling to get the bulb out. You won't burn your fingers and you won't break the bulb. I used my fingers to install the new 194/T10 LED bulbs.
Nice tip. It was tough to wiggle out the 194's with just fingertips. I was afraid I'd crush it and end up with a cut.
 

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Now, I have a pack of those lights, unopened, and unsure if I can use them to "upgrade" anything on my RTL-E.
If it's T10/194 bulbs that you got, you can replace the door lights, rear overhead lights, and license plate lights. I've replaced all these with Philips LEDs and am happy with them.
 

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If it's T10/194 bulbs that you got, you can replace the door lights, rear overhead lights, and license plate lights. I've replaced all these with Philips LEDs and am happy with them.
It is. Thanks. I am not sold on replacing the license plate lights, as I am not bought in on those, but the others are now on my mind.
Thanks.
 

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I have been trying to sort out what bulbs to buy. I have an RTL so I don't have the nifty swoosh lighting. Are the DRL the same as the high beams? I tried taking pics yesterday and trying to figure things out. I have 12 different bulbs in my cart on Amazon. I did the can lights yesterday and they turned out pretty rad. Thanks for any guidance and help.
 

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Hello All....Had a question about the switchback bulbs installed where the front amber/orange turn signal is currently on a 2018 Ridgeline RTL-E. I wanted to wire this up so that the white illumination was on when the headlights were on, and of course when I use my turn signal the illumination switches to the amber/orange but not sure how to wire this so that it works that way? Can anyone please give me some pointers and guidance on doing this install and wiring.

MSWALL I know you set your switchback light to illuminate white when your fog lights were on and then illuminate amber/orange when you used your turn signals. I just wanted to wire this just a tad bit different by having the white illumination when the headlights were on or should I reconsider that thought?

I certainly appreciate anyone's help with this.......
 
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