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My truck does not get good fuel economy, so I'm trying new top of the header O2 sensors. The front one is easy to get at, but the plug clip is impossible. Does anybody know how to separate these? I tried for 2 hours yesterday. I drive a 2007 RTL non-nav. Got it used 1 year ago. The BEST fuel economy I have ever gotten was 15. In the next 2 weeks I will also do the tranny change 3 times (x4 qts.), and then the rear diff fluid. I'm also using synthetic motor oil. I don't beat on the truck, so there has to be something up. It has 84,000 miles on the odo. Also did a new air filter, and used Techron. Engine seems to run smooth.

Best always,

Bluemill
 

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The clips are pretty tough to figure out. The trick is that you need to remove the connector from the metal bracket that they are attached to before the connection can be pulled apart. Remove the bracket from the motor first and slide a small screwdriver between the bracket and the connector up from the bottom. Once the connector is free from the metal bracket, it will slide apart easily.

I have done the front upper and front lower o2 sensors so far. I am waiting for warmer weather to tackle the rears. Both the rears will be considerably more difficult than the front. I will probably combine doing the valve clearances with the rear upper as it should be much easier to see what you are doing with the intake and valve covers out of the way.

Overall, the fuel mileage of the Ridge is pretty poor. There are some here who get decent mileage but your experience isn't that far off of norm. I am on the same quest BTW. I get about 14-15 average but 75% is in stop and go city driving and my trips are typically less than 20 miles. In the winter time with the cold temps and winter formula gas, mileage typically nosedives. I am running 0-20 oil, DW1 transmission fluid, have new low rolling resistance tires, proper alignment and about 105k miles on the truck with a smooth running engine. When things warm up I will finish swapping out the 02 sensors and do the valve clearance adjustment and spark plugs. I don't hold much hope for significant improvements in mpg but if anything may help it will be the valve clearances and the upper rear o2 sensor. There have been a number of reports in this forum of overly tight exhaust valves which could definitely hurt performance / mileage. The idle learn procedure should be done after changing the sensors and doing the valve clearances.

Have fun!
 

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Bluemill, you'll probably find 3.5 quarts to be closer to what you actually need rather than a 4 qt tranny fluid change. 4 qts will likely over fill your tranny.

eurban, it would be nice to see some pics of that bracket/connector to have a visual idea of how that thing connects/disconnects.
 

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The bracket in question is off to the right of and slightly below the front upper 02 sensor that stares you in the face when you open the hood. The plastic connector for the sensor is clipped onto it. When the connector is clipped onto it, it forms a "lock" that will not allow the connector to come apart, even if you push the main tabs to open the connector. Once you unclip the sensor form the metal bracket it comes apart easily when you press the main tabs and pull. I could take a picture of it but I don't think that is really required, particularly if one has already explored the connector.
Does the Honda manual talk at all about getting the connectors apart? My recollection is that it doesn't. I personally spent 45 frustrated minutes trying to get the connector apart before I searched around and found the trick on a post in the Pilot forum.
 

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The bracket in question is off to the right of and slightly below the front upper 02 sensor that stares you in the face when you open the hood. The plastic connector for the sensor is clipped onto it. When the connector is clipped onto it, it forms a "lock" that will not allow the connector to come apart, even if you push the main tabs to open the connector. Once you unclip the sensor form the metal bracket it comes apart easily when you press the main tabs and pull. I could take a picture of it but I don't think that is really required, particularly if one has already explored the connector.
Does the Honda manual talk at all about getting the connectors apart? My recollection is that it doesn't. I personally spent 45 frustrated minutes trying to get the connector apart before I searched around and found the trick on a post in the Pilot forum.
No, my FSM doesn't show that little tidbit either.

 

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Just replaced upper sensor today. Need 14mm socket for bracket removal (one fastener). Need .75" sensor socket from auto parts store. Torque on the sensor is 33 ft/lbs. The toughest part is separating the female connector (that stays as part of the electrical line and receives the plug from the sensor assembly) from the metal bracket it is clipped into. This thread gives you some idea of that detach process but there were no pictures so I added some here when I did this today. The space is tight to work in on the back side of the connector, even after you have removed the bracket from it's mounting point on the motor. There is both a plastic springy tab on the back and the bottom of the plastic connector as oriented in it's normal mounting position, and a metal tongue/tab on the bracket that slides into this plastic connector from the top as oriented in its normal mounted position. Try to get a finger in back towards the bottom of the plastic connector to depress the plastic tab and then pull metal bracket tab/tongue out of that slot. Hopefully the pictures will help with this description.
 

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Outstanding Post Hardmat. This will be mucho helpful to many a member for a long time to come. Great job.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This site has got a bunch of helpful knowledgeable guys! Thanks to all of you. Last weekend I hadn't done any research on the job, but I had never run into such a tricky connector as the one for that sensor. I think I'll be able to tackle the replacement today, because of the help and advice above.

I'd like to put in my 2 cents worth on O2 sensor replacement. My other vehicle is a 2000 Corvette, now with 104,000 miles, which I've owned 10 years. I've taken very good care of the car, and stuck to all recommended maintenance schedules, doing most of it myself.

The catalytic converter failed at 102,000 miles. I'm 90% sure it's a result of increasingly lazy Oxy sensors. I won't bore you with the whole 3 month story, but it was clear that the header end of the cat pipe that failed was black as coal, while my 20,000 mile used cat pipe only looked a little heat treated inside. I had never replaced any sensors as I had never gotten a code or, had any obvious problems- until the Cat/s failed in August.

So, my philosophy is replace the top ones at least at 80,000 miles. It's good preventative
maintenance, and you may get a kick up in performance and fuel economy!

Best always,

Bluemill
 

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I think it's likely a good idea to include replacement of the O2 sensors when you do the TB/WP/valve adjustment/radiator service. Yeah, it adds to the cost, but every 100k miles or so? Not a bad price to pay for reliable transportation.. sure beats a car pmt too! ;)
 

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The later model Ridgelines have less expensive Sensors so be sure to select the correct year when you go shopping. In another Thread, someone said they thought the NTK sensors were the exact same ones that came in our vehicles. Both sensors I pulled out were stamped on the metal collar NTK.

The upper/front stamping was: line 1 - LHA:LZA08-H4 line 2 - NTK JAPAN (on the .75” nut you put your wrench on, the stamp is: 51R7)
The lower/front stamping was: line 1 - OHR::618-H9 line 2 - NTK JAPAN (on the nut: 5B21)

They are significantly less expensive, especially the Lowers, than buying from the Honda Dealer. I used the honda pricing, printed out from my computer to get the front/upper from my dealer at $139. Call ahead to arrange this with the parts counter person. They will require some documentation when you come in as proof of the price you can get it for from a Honda Dealer.


Part numbers for O2 sensors 2006 RTL, list price and Majestic Honda parts price and partsgeek price

36531-RDM-A01 List $201 - upper front $139 Majestic, Partsgeek $104

36531-RCA-A02 List $201 - upper rear $139 Majestic, Partsgeek $104

36532-RJA-004 List $370, lower front $247 Majestic, Partsgeek $105

36542-RJA-004 List $329, lower rear , $247 Majestic, Partsgeek $85 (the parts geek picture of the part looks identical to the one I pulled out but in their picture, if you zoom in, line 1 in the picture starts out: OZA8 and the one I removed starts out: OHR::618-H9 I did not check the stamped code on the new one that was put in by the dealer so I can’t verify if the new one had the same code as old one. Also, the part photographed at Partsgeek may not be the exact part.


Parts Geek - has NTK and Bosch Sensors at link below with free shipping. Be sure to change the year of your vehicle when you get to that page unless you have an ‘06. The price difference for the uppers was not that much different so I went with the honda part from the honda dealer. The Lowers are quite a bit cheaper with PGeek so I might try the NTK’s from Partsgeek when I get the lower replaced on the back side.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/honda/ridgeline/fuel_injection/oxygen_sensor.html
 

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Very helpful posts.

I'm a newbie 2006 RL owner w/ 125K, so forgive newbie question. I don't have much in the way of maintenance history. The Check Engine light came on. The code indicated either "upstream O2 sensor or catalyst." I will start w/ the sensor, I think.

Are there a total of 2 or 4 O2 sensors on the RL?
One upstream and one downstream, or two of each, or what?

Thanks.
 

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Hello 79Bomber,

There are 2 sensors in front and 2 sensors in the rear. Per the diagram below, air/fuel and O2 sensors, front and rear.

 

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79Bomber - per the diagram there can be confusion with terminology. Most or all people on this forum refer to all 4 sensors as O2 sensors and maybe that is correct or...not? The diagram shows and labels the upstream sensors as A/F (air fuel) sensor and the lowers or downstream sensors as O2 sensors. This messed me up when I asked the dealer to replace the O2 sensor on the front or left bank due to the P0430 code I was getting. It turned out to be the wrong one and the expensive one. If I had specified the A/F sensor front, left bank I think they would have replaced the one I wanted replaced. Replacing the lower O2 sensor did nothing to cure my engine light and code.

After replacing my A/F Sensor (upper, up stream, left bank) the engine light did not go out. Per advice from Dnick, I bought a $50 code reader/scanner and deleted the codes. (the auto parts store guy would not erase/delete the code...said it was illegal for him to do so) The engine light went out and has not come back on but I have only put about 50 miles on so far with maybe 10 on/off cycles of the engine. Good luck with yours.
 

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Tim, that is a good point of distinction. I stand corrected.
 

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update: after 150 miles -P0430 code and Engine light is back on so the sensor replacement did not take care of the issue. I guess I need to replace the catalytic converter. Still no detectable symptoms in performance of the motor (acceleration - idling) or mileage.
 

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Another question on replacing the top side bank 1 sensor (near firewall, not near radiator). Is it also recommended (same as front top sensor) to first remove the mounting bracket before attempting to disconnect the sensor from the harness?
 

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You need to remove the entire connector from the bracket before you can pull apart the connector. If you can get the connector off of the bracket without having the bracket loose then that will work. I have not yet done the rear upper sensor but no doubt it will be MUCH more difficult to access than the front. I am waiting for warmer weather to start back on truck stuff. I am going to combine the valve adjustment with replacing this sensor. With the intake out of the way it will be much easier to see what I am doing with the sensor.
 

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Question, with 76,000 miles on the ODO, should I be changing these O2 Sensors while in the engine compartment? With the Radiator pulled it's real easy to get to them. Sorry I guess that is the front Air Fuel Sensor, Not O2, although it would be easy enough also. That Rear O2 Sensor would be a monster.
 

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