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Discussion Starter #1
New here, I recently purchased an 06 Ridge with 230k miles. 229k and change to be more accurate. Previous owner took good care of the truck and maintenance is up to date with only one exception, the valve adjustment. I thought the community might be interested to see what the engine looks like after 230k so I snapped a few pics along the way. This isn't a "how to" just sharing my experience. I'm sure there is a thorough "how to" guide somewhere hidden in the search function of this forum.

So anyways take a look at the inside of my valve covers. I wasn't sure what to expect but I gotta say, it's pretty ugly in there. First pic is the front valve cover (4,5,6). Second Pic is the rear valve cover, not as bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here some pics of the rocker assembly hidden below the covers. One thing to note for those that plan to reuse the spark plug tube seals. If your coil looks anything like the ones in my pics. Change them! Not just one but all of them.

Edit: Images are upside down or sideways. Don't know why :|
 

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I had trouble figuring out how to remove the spark plug seals without damaging the seat. Unfortunately I didn't have my seal puller with me today and I needed this thing running before work. So what I did is I grabbed a flat head pocket screw driver and hammered it on the side of the seal creating enough space for me to grab a larger flat head to jam in there. Once in I was able to slowly crank the seal out without damage.

One seal came out in the shape of a heart. Showing me some love after battling with it :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Long story short I had to put this thing together asap so I didn't get a chance to snap any pictures of all the parts cleaned up. I did the best I could in my modest garage with a wire brush and multipurpose solvent. I think they came out nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I apologize for the overly large pictures. I just clicked and dragged.

I thought it was interesting to see the inside of this vehicle with 230k. I have to say I've never seen exhaust valves with absolutely no clearance. It had 0.00 mm of clearance or .000 thousands of an inch, doesn't matter, the sucker had no gap :surprise:

It was no fun getting to cylinders 1,2 and 3. I'm probably shorter than most of your wives so I wound up grabbing an old mattress and laying it on the engine to lay on and get comfortable. I simply couldn't reach very well back there. Laying on the engine made things cake. I wonder if the neighbors thought I was camping out in the engine bay.

The intakes were all within spec luckily. After all was said and done I felt some improvement. I originally purchased the truck with a check engine light with code P0175. This seems to have rectified that problem. Great pull on the top end on the way to work. I look forward to seeing some improvement in the mpg department.

From a scale of 1 to 10 I rate this a 5. It's not hard but man those valves in the rear were a pain. I hope this helps someone looking to tackle this job.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Great job brian. The rear cylinders are actually 1,2 and 3.



Regardless, it seems pretty normal for the exhaust valves to wear into the seat thus reducing clearances. I'm glad you didn't have any burned valves to show for it!

Which also begs the question why Honda only recommends a valve adjustment if they are noisy. Methinks tight valves are quiet valves and much more subject to inducing engine damage than loose (noisy) valves.

Here are some links to go along with your post:

DIY Valve Adjustment on 2006 Ridgeline w/photos - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
P0175 returns.... ANY HOT TIPS - Honda-Tech
Check your valve clearances at 50K miles (or less) and not 105K as Honda recommends. - Honda-Tech
 
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Although big...great pics. And nice cleaning job given what you started with. They dont look terrible to me given the 230k. Here's to another trouble free 100k!
 

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The pics appear normal size to me. What are others seeing?
 

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Pics appear normal sized to me SL. Thanks for sharing this Socialbrian. I echo previous comment that the valve pans dont look that bad, given the mileage. May the RL continue to run well for many more miles!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Woops I did mix up the cylinders in my last post. Corrected thank you.

The engine was indeed quieter BEFORE this adjustment. I had my suspicion before I started but zero tolerances! That was a surprise. Thanks for the links.
 

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Thanks for posting the pics, socal brian!

I agree that the level of deposit shown wasn't about to wreck the engine or anything. Nevertheless, that quantity of deposit is why I prefer fluids and/or drain intervals oriented toward keeping things cleaner than that.

Cheers!
 
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I prefer fluids and/or drain intervals oriented toward keeping things cleaner
Can you elaborate bulwnkl?

What are your preferences in this regard?
 

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My previous experience and testing with the work fleets showed me a great deal that I could never have found out at home. One thing it showed is that there are multiple factors involved in when the various manufacturers allow the MMs to trigger an oil change/service indicator. Maximum engine cleanliness is not a particularly significant factor for them, IMEO. Engine cleanliness _does_ have a measurable impact on efficiency (fuel economy) and durability, though. Most owners will never see the durability limits of their choices on a vehicle, so there's very little reason to program an MM for max cleanliness, and that's fine. I just make different trade-offs.

My MM in my use of the pickup generally tell me to change the oil at around 10k miles. The J-35 is a good engine design, and so good fluids will keep it clean at those intervals, from what I can see so far. Best cleanliness I've achieved in the past across the board has come from Renewable Lubricants' products, and Red Line has usually been excellent as well. A 5,000-mile drain interval would likely also work well for me in the J-35 with cheap oil.

At present, I'm 'testing' Mobil-1. I haven't used that product for a while, but became willing recently. We'll see how it fares, but I expect good things.
 

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Thanks. That's good info and I'd like to request you start a thread with that info when you can.

My Pilot has been on M1 5w-20 since its first oil change. Iirc, I began with 5k ocis but changed over to the MM schedule at some point after getting the RL. I should check my records. When I had the TB service done at 120k miles last year, I also had a valve adjustment performed. The shop said the engine was very clean inside. Wish I'd gone down and taken some pics when it was opened up.
 
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Recently had the local Honda dealer do the valve adjustment on my 07 @ 150,000 miles. The exhaust valves were all tight as usual. The rear valves were more tight than the front valves. I've noticed that the engine is noisier at idle now.

Did anyone else notice this?
If so, what is going on ?
Is it just the cam wearing in with the new valve position?
Does anyone know if the Honda tech would routinely clean the valve covers before reinstalling them?

I've put about 3000 miles on the truck since the valves were adjusted and the noise seems to staying about the same.
 

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My Pilot has been on M1 5w-20 since its first oil change. Iirc, I began with 5k ocis but changed over to the MM schedule at some point after getting the RL. I should check my records. When I had the TB service done at 120k miles last year, I also had a valve adjustment performed. The shop said the engine was very clean inside. Wish I'd gone down and taken some pics when it was opened up.
Same here Speed. Had my 06 RL since July 05 and from day one only used M1 5w-20 synthetic oil and M110 oil filter religiously following the MM schedule. Did valve lash adjustment back in May 2015 with 146k miles.

Engine cold 24-48 hrs. TDC each cylinder per HSM
Specs: Intake .008-.009 in, Exhaust .011-.013 in
Jam Nut torque 14lb/ft

My findings (measured after cycling engine twice to verify valve lash to specs):


Intakes appeared looser and Exhausts seemed fine

Cyl 1
Intake Orig .011/.011 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .011/.012 Post .013

Cyl 2
Intake Orig .012/.012 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .012/.013 Post .013

Cyl 3
Intake Orig .012/.012 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .012/.013 Post .013

Cyl 4
Intake Orig .013/.012 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .011/.014 Post .013

Cyl 5
Intake Orig .0125/.0125 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .012/.014 Post .013

Cyl 6
Intake Orig .011/.012 Post .008
Exhaust Orig .012/.012 Post .013


After reading other ROC member recommendations, I decided to leave Intake valves on the tighter spec range of .008 in and left the Exhaust valves on the looser side of .013 in.

As far as the Intake Manifold Plenum and valve covers, there was less than moderate varnish and carbon deposit. Nothing to write home about. I have pictures archived somewhere and will try to upload when I find them.

Hope this helps someone with some insight from my experience. My RL has 150k and drives awesome. Will drive my RL until the wheels fall off.
 

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That's great info. I asked the shop to write down the clearances they found, but the shop couldn't locate the documentation when the job was done.
 
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