Q. Do I have to remove the VCMuzzler II before I take my vehicle in for service or an emissions inspection?
A. If the vehicle is under warranty, I would recommend removing it. There’s no practical reason why Honda would void your warranty for using the device, but any modification to the vehicle can be used as attempted grounds to void the warranty by some unscrupulous dealers. I have not heard of any cases of this to date. Everyone so far that has left it in for a service trip has reported either it was not even noticed (as it looks OEM) or in a few cases, the service people have actually recognized it for what it is (I guess word is getting around). In none of these cases have they said that it’s a bad thing and should be removed. In a couple cases, the service person endorsed it, saying it’s a good thing, others will not endorse it (presumably because it’s not OEM) but do not downplay it either. I have sold some to dealerships and repair shops.
For emissions inspections, again, some report leaving them on and passing with no problem. The self-diagnostics all pass with the VCMuzzler II installed. There have been no reports of failing an inspection because the VCMuzzler II is installed.
Q. Why are there 5 resistor connectors supplied with the VCMuzzler II?
A. The different resistors are to account for variances between vehicles cooling system components such as thermostats, sensors, cooling system fluid and condition and radiator condition as these variances can result in slightly different operating temperatures. Climate can play a role in selection as well. You really can't tell what you need until you try it. Note that earlier versions of the VCMuzzler II were only supplied with two resistors. In those cases, if you need a resistor other than the two supplied, an optional resistor pack is available.
Q. How do I decide which resistor to use?
A. Always start with the Blue 82 ohm resistor (installed on the harness when you receive it) and if necessary move up or down according to the troubleshooting chart in the instruction manual.
Q. My newer model Honda does not have an ECO light that comes on and goes off while driving. How do I know that the VCMuzzler II installed on my vehicle is actually disabling VCM?
A. Newer model Honda's do not have an ECO light, which is the indicator in the older models on whether VCM is activating or not. In the newer model Honda's the ECON button is independent of the VCM system, and VCM is active regardless mentioned above. There are a couple of ways to verify that the VCMuzzler is working on newer model Honda's.
The first is to purchase an inexpensive OBD II scan tool. These can be found at your local parts store or on ebay. There are models that have their own display, or you can get ones that plug in and transmit the data to an app that you install on your smartphone. Either one will have a mode for monitoring sensors. If you look at the ECT (engine coolant temperature) reading and it is staying below 167°F the majority of the time, then you are deactivating VCM during that time. Occasional creeping above 167°F after idling in heavy traffic is not a big concern because VCM will only engage for less than a minute after you get going again and the temp comes back down. 167°F is the VCM threshold for every 3.5L engine with VCM that Honda has produced since 2005. So that's a positive way to ensure VCM is deactivated on your newer model Honda.
If you don't want to buy the scan tool, the second way to ensure you are deactivating VCM is to use the highest resistor you can without getting a CEL (check engine light). This method is less accurate, but cheaper as you don't need to purchase anything. In this method, you would start with the red resistor. If you don't get a CEL, then VCM is most certainly being deactivated the vast majority of the time as the red resistor lowers the perceived temperature to the ecu below 167 degF for the majority of driving conditions on all Honda's. If, however, you get a CEL with the red, then you don't need that much resistance and the blue will do the job just fine. Getting CEL errors (usually showing on the display as "check emissions system") is not a troubling event, because you know it's related to the VCMuzzler causing the reported engine temp to be too low to the ECU. These CEL codes can be cleared either by switching to the blue resistor and driving it for a few days, which allows it to clear on its own, or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, which will clear it immediately.
Q. How do I know if I’m using too high of a resistor?
A. If you get a Check Engine Light (CEL) warning on your dash that says “Check Emission System” and the code returned is “P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)”. If you don’t have a code reader, you can go to your local parts store and they will read and tell you the code for free. If you see this CEL right after installing the VCMuzzler II or increasing the resistance, then this is almost certainly the error code you will get. This code is generated when the ECU perceives the engine temperature to be outside of the acceptable range of the thermostat (which is usually pretty generous).
Q. I got a CEL on my dash after installing the VCMuzzler II or switching resistors…What should I do?
A. First of all don’t panic. The CEL can be triggered for two reasons. Firstly, you may have installed it when the engine was not completely cold. It should always be installed or resistors should be changed first thing in the morning before the vehicle has been started. The second reason may be that the resistance is too high for your vehicle.
If the CEL was a result of it being installed while the engine was too warm, the CEL should clear on it’s own after a few drives or it may take a few days.
If the CEL was a result of too much resistance, it either will not clear on its own after a week, or it will clear and then return. In this case, the resistance will need to be decreased… see the above two FAQ’s.
If you wish to clear your CEL manually, disconnect the battery for a few minutes.
Q. I’ve been using the VCMuzzler II for a while now and all of a sudden I got a CEL. What happened?
A. It could be your cooling system has changed slightly and you have the P0128 error. It may also be that the ambient temperature has dropped due to the seasons and this has affected your operating temperature. However, it might be another error completely unrelated to the VCMuzzler II. You should read the code if you have a reader or get it read for you for free at an auto parts store. If it is the P0128 code, it may just have been an anomaly and it may clear again on its own after a while. If it doesn’t, you may have to change to a lower resistance. If it is a different code than P0128, then you’ll have to address whatever the code is telling you.
Q. What is the cost? Why is it so expensive? Why is it so inexpensive? How do I order?
A. The cost is based on many things, supplier costs, ebay and / or paypal fees increasing and on the time it takes to manufacture as I make each one by hand, not with high volume manufacturing equipment. I adjust the cost occasionally due to increasing costs. Some wonder why I don’t charge more. If you’re interested in purchasing and wish to know the cost, send me a PM. If you know you want to purchase, send me your name, shipping address, paypal email address and the year and model of your vehicle. I’ll send you a paypal invoice and once paid, it ships along with the instruction manual.
Q. How long does it take to ship? How long does it take to arrive?
A. I usually ship next business day, sometimes it can be up to two or three days at the most. Delivery time from ship date to the US is on average 2 weeks, but can take up to three or more occasionally. The main delay is always in US Customs as they are being shipped from Canada. US customs processing times are very erratic. Shipments within Canada take 3-4 business days.
Q. I have not received my VCMuzzler II yet and it’s been a long time. What can be done?
A. I can’t initiate a claim until 30 days past the ship date. Once 30 days has passed, I can initiate a claim and send out another. This has only been necessary in a few cases.
Q. A wire or resistor has pulled out of the connector terminal. What should I do?
A. You cannot repair it once this has happened. To prevent this, never pull on the wires or the resistors, only pull on the connectors themselves and take care not to put tension on other wires when doing so. If this does happen, PM or email me to arrange a repair.
Q. How long will the resistors last?
A. It will likely outlast you and your vehicle. The resistors are much higher rated than necessary and not taxed very hard at all.
A. If the vehicle is under warranty, I would recommend removing it. There’s no practical reason why Honda would void your warranty for using the device, but any modification to the vehicle can be used as attempted grounds to void the warranty by some unscrupulous dealers. I have not heard of any cases of this to date. Everyone so far that has left it in for a service trip has reported either it was not even noticed (as it looks OEM) or in a few cases, the service people have actually recognized it for what it is (I guess word is getting around). In none of these cases have they said that it’s a bad thing and should be removed. In a couple cases, the service person endorsed it, saying it’s a good thing, others will not endorse it (presumably because it’s not OEM) but do not downplay it either. I have sold some to dealerships and repair shops.
For emissions inspections, again, some report leaving them on and passing with no problem. The self-diagnostics all pass with the VCMuzzler II installed. There have been no reports of failing an inspection because the VCMuzzler II is installed.
Q. Why are there 5 resistor connectors supplied with the VCMuzzler II?
A. The different resistors are to account for variances between vehicles cooling system components such as thermostats, sensors, cooling system fluid and condition and radiator condition as these variances can result in slightly different operating temperatures. Climate can play a role in selection as well. You really can't tell what you need until you try it. Note that earlier versions of the VCMuzzler II were only supplied with two resistors. In those cases, if you need a resistor other than the two supplied, an optional resistor pack is available.
Q. How do I decide which resistor to use?
A. Always start with the Blue 82 ohm resistor (installed on the harness when you receive it) and if necessary move up or down according to the troubleshooting chart in the instruction manual.
Q. My newer model Honda does not have an ECO light that comes on and goes off while driving. How do I know that the VCMuzzler II installed on my vehicle is actually disabling VCM?
A. Newer model Honda's do not have an ECO light, which is the indicator in the older models on whether VCM is activating or not. In the newer model Honda's the ECON button is independent of the VCM system, and VCM is active regardless mentioned above. There are a couple of ways to verify that the VCMuzzler is working on newer model Honda's.
The first is to purchase an inexpensive OBD II scan tool. These can be found at your local parts store or on ebay. There are models that have their own display, or you can get ones that plug in and transmit the data to an app that you install on your smartphone. Either one will have a mode for monitoring sensors. If you look at the ECT (engine coolant temperature) reading and it is staying below 167°F the majority of the time, then you are deactivating VCM during that time. Occasional creeping above 167°F after idling in heavy traffic is not a big concern because VCM will only engage for less than a minute after you get going again and the temp comes back down. 167°F is the VCM threshold for every 3.5L engine with VCM that Honda has produced since 2005. So that's a positive way to ensure VCM is deactivated on your newer model Honda.
If you don't want to buy the scan tool, the second way to ensure you are deactivating VCM is to use the highest resistor you can without getting a CEL (check engine light). This method is less accurate, but cheaper as you don't need to purchase anything. In this method, you would start with the red resistor. If you don't get a CEL, then VCM is most certainly being deactivated the vast majority of the time as the red resistor lowers the perceived temperature to the ecu below 167 degF for the majority of driving conditions on all Honda's. If, however, you get a CEL with the red, then you don't need that much resistance and the blue will do the job just fine. Getting CEL errors (usually showing on the display as "check emissions system") is not a troubling event, because you know it's related to the VCMuzzler causing the reported engine temp to be too low to the ECU. These CEL codes can be cleared either by switching to the blue resistor and driving it for a few days, which allows it to clear on its own, or disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, which will clear it immediately.
Q. How do I know if I’m using too high of a resistor?
A. If you get a Check Engine Light (CEL) warning on your dash that says “Check Emission System” and the code returned is “P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)”. If you don’t have a code reader, you can go to your local parts store and they will read and tell you the code for free. If you see this CEL right after installing the VCMuzzler II or increasing the resistance, then this is almost certainly the error code you will get. This code is generated when the ECU perceives the engine temperature to be outside of the acceptable range of the thermostat (which is usually pretty generous).
Q. I got a CEL on my dash after installing the VCMuzzler II or switching resistors…What should I do?
A. First of all don’t panic. The CEL can be triggered for two reasons. Firstly, you may have installed it when the engine was not completely cold. It should always be installed or resistors should be changed first thing in the morning before the vehicle has been started. The second reason may be that the resistance is too high for your vehicle.
If the CEL was a result of it being installed while the engine was too warm, the CEL should clear on it’s own after a few drives or it may take a few days.
If the CEL was a result of too much resistance, it either will not clear on its own after a week, or it will clear and then return. In this case, the resistance will need to be decreased… see the above two FAQ’s.
If you wish to clear your CEL manually, disconnect the battery for a few minutes.
Q. I’ve been using the VCMuzzler II for a while now and all of a sudden I got a CEL. What happened?
A. It could be your cooling system has changed slightly and you have the P0128 error. It may also be that the ambient temperature has dropped due to the seasons and this has affected your operating temperature. However, it might be another error completely unrelated to the VCMuzzler II. You should read the code if you have a reader or get it read for you for free at an auto parts store. If it is the P0128 code, it may just have been an anomaly and it may clear again on its own after a while. If it doesn’t, you may have to change to a lower resistance. If it is a different code than P0128, then you’ll have to address whatever the code is telling you.
Q. What is the cost? Why is it so expensive? Why is it so inexpensive? How do I order?
A. The cost is based on many things, supplier costs, ebay and / or paypal fees increasing and on the time it takes to manufacture as I make each one by hand, not with high volume manufacturing equipment. I adjust the cost occasionally due to increasing costs. Some wonder why I don’t charge more. If you’re interested in purchasing and wish to know the cost, send me a PM. If you know you want to purchase, send me your name, shipping address, paypal email address and the year and model of your vehicle. I’ll send you a paypal invoice and once paid, it ships along with the instruction manual.
Q. How long does it take to ship? How long does it take to arrive?
A. I usually ship next business day, sometimes it can be up to two or three days at the most. Delivery time from ship date to the US is on average 2 weeks, but can take up to three or more occasionally. The main delay is always in US Customs as they are being shipped from Canada. US customs processing times are very erratic. Shipments within Canada take 3-4 business days.
Q. I have not received my VCMuzzler II yet and it’s been a long time. What can be done?
A. I can’t initiate a claim until 30 days past the ship date. Once 30 days has passed, I can initiate a claim and send out another. This has only been necessary in a few cases.
Q. A wire or resistor has pulled out of the connector terminal. What should I do?
A. You cannot repair it once this has happened. To prevent this, never pull on the wires or the resistors, only pull on the connectors themselves and take care not to put tension on other wires when doing so. If this does happen, PM or email me to arrange a repair.
Q. How long will the resistors last?
A. It will likely outlast you and your vehicle. The resistors are much higher rated than necessary and not taxed very hard at all.
