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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a used 2006 Ridgeline from Florida in Spring 2015. It was well used with high mileage (~187,000mi).

I brought it back to Canada and resolved a few issues and refreshed it. It has been a reliable and comfortable truck.

Last spring it started to smell like burning oil but it wasn't losing any between changes. A leaking ps pump seal lead me to believe it was the ps fluid but after cleaning things up, I noticed a film of oil on the pan and forward. The rear seal area was dry when inspected behind the plate.

After some checks on this forum, I assumed it was leaking from a front main bearing bolts (behind the AC compressor) and planned to address when convenient.

I recently replaced the radiator, timing belt, thermostat, hoses, and when looking at the easily visible front facing side of the engine, the oil film was visible up higher. It seems to start at the bottom of the valve cover.

Again this forum lead me to the PCV (the one item I forgot to address when rehabilitating the Rideline).

I just changed it and now there is no oil smell coming in the cab (it was especially noticeable at stop lights). So far it seems the PCV was the cause.

When removing the original PCV, it would turn but it was brittle and the face broke off when trying to extract. I used an 8mm tap to bite into the broken PCV tube and it easily pulled out.

I'll clean the engine in the spring (protective oil film stays on until the salt season is over) and keep an eye on things.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
re: Weak oil leak/smell solved w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Assembly Leak

Murphy's Law, fix one thing, cause another.

Today my Ridgeline started throwing some oil near the passenger side drive shaft boot. At first I thought it was the crank side bearing bolt leaking but after cleaning up the oil and visually inspecting with the engine running, I could see oil weeping out of VTEC Solenoid Valve Assembly (the aluminum structure that holds the oil filter [part #10 in the image below]).Part #11 is the problem seal.


I'll replace the seal aka "spool valve filter" and report back. Part is here.

The 3 bolts holding the aluminum structure are easy to access without removing the passenger front wheel well liner.

 

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re: Weak oil leak/smell solved w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Assembly Leak

That's one I've not seen replaced yet. If you remember try to grab some pics.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
re: Weak oil leak/smell solved w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Assembly Leak

That's one I've not seen replaced yet. If you remember try to grab some pics.

Good Luck
I'll grab a video shot of weeping tomorrow.

FYI it seems to be a common problem on many other Honda's so it may just be starting to show on these. My truck is a 2006 that spent 8 years in Florida and now the past 2 in Nova Scotia. Well cooked rubber has aged and hardened in an expanded state and is now exposed to cold extremes where it contracts but is not pliable enough to hold a seal...... so that is what I am experiencing. The rubber on the rad cap failed on a cold morning last winter.

I just keep putting out the fires.
 

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re: Weak oil leak/smell solved w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Assembly Leak

Finally got to look at the video, from what you've shown, it looks like it was pretty simple. For those of us with older High Mileage G1's, would probably be a good idea to change that when we have time. I'd guess heat cycles, and age, more likely than source but who knows, maybe Honda had a bad batch. I'm due for an Oil Change soon, so I'll look at mine more then.

Anything more you can add to removal/install would be helpful for others...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
A seal that you should all consider replacing.

I highly recommend this $12 seal/gasket to be replaced. It is easy to do: Access is easy and tools are common.

When mine let go, I lost 4 liters of oil driving ~ 15 miles. This is not something you want to happen on a long trip.

As you can see in the video, the seal was hardened from years of use. It cracked where the bubbling is observed. On removal it was brittle and cracked easily in my hand.














Here is how I replaced it:

1. Jack front right corner , remove wheel and support with jack stands ( even though you can work from beside the hub, you don't want truck falling with your arms in around the control arm and sway bar).

2. Pull the plastic fastener (A) on the wheel well liner that just covers the oil pump (it connects the top part of the plastic liner to the bottom engine rail), Fold it out of the way.



3. Disconnect Valve Timing Oil Pressure Switch Connector (connector on green part #15).

4. Clean any dirt , sand, etc from the Spool Valve Assembly (part #10).

5. Disconnect VTEC Solenoid connector (tail on part #12) Note, this connector is an odd ball (see grey connector in middle photo below), you need to squeeze the tab on the top black harness connector to release it then squeeze the tab on the bottom grey tail to disconnect it from the metal stay.

6. Use a 12mm socket on an extension to remove the 3 bolts holding the Spool Valve Assembly to the Oil pump. ( place a pan on floor to catch dripping oil).

7. Remove Spool Valve Assembly, drain oil, clean debris. (no need to remove oil filter).

8. Install new seal/gasket and reinstall Spool Valve Assembly. Take care not to bump gasket when installing. Use tightening of bolts to draw assembly towards oil pump. Finger tighten evenly then torque to 16ft-lbs.

9. Attach electrical connectors.

10. Start engine and look for leaks.

11. Install wheel liner rivet then wheel.

12. Enjoy long drives!




 

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Re: Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

Great job blue280z. Was there much oil leakage when you did this? Would it be more appropriate to address this issue when doing an oil change?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Re: Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

Great job blue280z. Was there much oil leakage when you did this? Would it be more appropriate to address this issue when doing an oil change?
Not much at all. Most is in the filter, Just place a catch pan under the spool valve before you remove it and you will be good.

FYI most of the oil is in the oil pan when parked.
 

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One of those Sneaky Leaks?

The way a V-TEC gasket leak snuck up on me was news2me. A tiny, halfway dried up, almost imperceptible oil spot shows up on my garage floor. I check underneath the Ridge and oil is everywhere, even well above the oil filter. Did not wipe anything down and no drops hit the floor for 2 days afterward. So why not more evidence of the leak on the floor?

Rob, my ace mechanic, showed me why. After first cleaning the area to recreate the leak at its origin, nothing turns up. He said oil wouldn’t show up while the engine is hot cuz even a compromised V-TEC gasket, which he suspected, swells with the heat and blocks its own leak…until a cold start the next morning. Then a trickle will start but stop as soon as the engine heats back up again, leaving little deposits that add up over time, one of them eventually landing on your floor. Dad gum, if he wasn’t right. So if he pinpointed it, we nipped the oil leak in the bud … unless it originated from somewhere else. We’ll see.
 

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Re: One of those Sneaky Leaks?

Good To know. Should keep it handy and check for it this weekend when I change my oil.

BTW, I see what you did in your first line, sneaky sneaky (pun intended :) )

AND: whats up with the FRAM filter man? not cool.
 

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Re: One of those Sneaky Leaks?

Good To know. Should keep it handy and check for it this weekend when I change my oil.

BTW, I see what you did in your first line, sneaky sneaky (pun intended :) )

AND: whats up with the FRAM filter man? not cool.
You caught me dead to rights on that FRAM. The perils of Walmart oil changes ... but at least it’s done every 3000 miles.

On this sneaky leak, jury’s still out. I always give it a couple of days before declaring any surgery to close an oil leak a success. There’s always some excess spillage you have to dismiss as a cause. So I’ve wiped down everything I could reach. The new gaskets look clean, though.
 

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Re: Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

UPDATE: After a thorough wipe down the day after surgery, multiple checks before and after cold starts and following regular and expressway driving, everything remains bone dry…more than 2 and half days after getting those v-tech seals replaced. Thanks to my mechanic Rob for calling it right. Our garage floor appreciating the effort too.
 

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Re: Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

Sweet! I like that garage floor!

More garage porn please!
 
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Re: Weak Oil Leak/Smell fixed w/ PCV replacement & VTEC Solenoid Valve Leak Solved

Sweet! I like that garage floor!

More garage porn please!
I will soon post a link to the plans for our suspended cabinetry. Amazingly simple to make, and the sturdiest you will ever find mounted in a garage. In the meantime I can stow the ramps away...at least till the next crisis.
 

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