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I took photos of all the issues that should not have passed quality control and plan on meeting with a Honda district rep later this week :grin:

For example, here's one of the ridiculous door gap. this is why my door was so hard to close. According to a 20+ year tech of honda, this is out of tolerance, can not be adjusted, and should have never left the factory like this.
 

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I put a set of Gorilla Guard wheel locks on mine. They went on fine and were inexpensive, but they stick out about 1/4 of an inch or so more than the other lug nuts do. Not too sure I like that, but it does make them more obvious. Maybe that is a good thing for where I park some times.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
NAC386, did you tint yourself or get a professional job? Looks great by the way.
Thanks! I got it done by a professional. This is the 3rd car I've had done by them and it has always turned out great. They give a lifetime warranty, so if it ever peels or bubbles it gets replaced for free. I assume most places offer that kind of warranty.
 

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what make/model led lights/fogs? I did some research and didn't find any that i like with the exception of the Philips H11 fogs, but i'm not going to run those as headlights, not bright enough - so i upgraded my halogens :)
 

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what make/model led lights/fogs? I did some research and didn't find any that i like with the exception of the Philips H11 fogs, but i'm not going to run those as headlights, not bright enough - so i upgraded my halogens :)
I did research for like 3 days and read a bunch of reviews on Amazon and then I just got tired of it and called my parts guy (I have a shop) and he sent me down a couple pair of LEDs he sells and I don't have any complaints, I'll take a pic of the box tomorrow and send it over.
 

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Went to Costco for groceries and put our big cooler in the trunk for that. Then went to a laminate place to schedule a vinyl hood protector. Then went to the orthopedist. Liked the first two better. :crying:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Today, I tinted my windows (18%) and hauled an old queen mattress and frame to the dump.
Is that the OEM netting holding down the mattress?
No, it's not the OEM netting, but I cannot remember what brand it is (I'd check but it's in my trunk). I did not buy it, my father bought it for something a while back and gave it to me yesterday when I showed him the new truck. One of those, "Hey! I got something in the shed you could use," type of things. It worked well once I untangled it.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I took photos of all the issues that should not have passed quality control and plan on meeting with a Honda district rep later this week :grin:

For example, here's one of the ridiculous door gap. this is why my door was so hard to close. According to a 20+ year tech of honda, this is out of tolerance, can not be adjusted, and should have never left the factory like this.
I agree. That should not exit the factory like that.

I had fitment issues with my G1 as well. Not quite like yours though. My left rear passenger door did not fit evenly around the frame... looking at it from an angle, you could see parts stuck out and parts seemed indented relative to the body. The gap looked good. But it certainly didn't meet reasonable quality standards for fitment in my opinion.

I posted a thread with pics... but don't have the link handy at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Made another dump run today, forgot to take a picture.

But I put 10 old gallons of paint and a sump pump in the trunk, with lots of space leftover. In the bed, I had an old fire pit that had become dilapidated and a rusty old mountain bike.

A guy at the dump had a black F-150 extended cab. He loved the Ridgeline and could not believe I got 28mpg on the way to the dump.
 

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Dropping the RL off at the dealer today for an unknown "district rep" to take a look at the door gap issue. They are going to give me a loaner. I requested the Black AWD RL that came from another dealer and already has almost 300 miles on it and they just laughed. Hope to hear something tomorrow. It will probably go something like this:

from Honda: "We're sorry for the trouble you've been having with your new RTL. We would like to thank you for your loyalty for owning 9 Honda vehicles and also congratulate you for being the first customer at our dealership to take delivery of the new honda ridgeline. As a token of appreciation, we would like to upgrade your vehicle at no charge. (I'll even chip in for the RTL-E) Please continue to drive your RL until your new order has arrived. Thank you, Team Honda." (I know, wishful thinking on my part)

Actual response will be more like:

"The 3mm offset you described as a "door gap" is within tolerance and deemed reasonable by Honda and is not a factory flaw. You can always trade-in your RL towards another trim level and we assure you that we will give you the best trade-in allowance for your vehicle." LOL

I'll be sure to make a new post with the outcome.
 

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GTRdone, what does the gap between the bad FR door, and rear door, look like? Assuming it's tight at the top, bigger gap at the bottom?

Looks like a hinge-to-body issue, which is much more difficult to fix. Surface flushness gaps can corrected by using smaller shouldered bolts in the hinge-to-door attachment point along with "massaging" the fenders. The opening edge flushness of the door can adjusted with the striker & stops.

The dealer will probably have to break the weld sealer at the hinge-to-body attachment, and reset & reseal. Tricky, but can be done.
 

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GTRdone, what does the gap between the bad FR door, and rear door, look like? Assuming it's tight at the top, bigger gap at the bottom?

Looks like a hinge-to-body issue, which is much more difficult to fix. Surface flushness gaps can corrected by using smaller shouldered bolts in the hinge-to-door attachment point along with "massaging" the fenders. The opening edge flushness of the door can adjusted with the striker & stops.

The dealer will probably have to break the weld sealer at the hinge-to-body attachment, and reset & reseal. Tricky, but can be done.
yes tight at the top and big at the bottom on the part where the drivers door meets the left rear passenger door. the whole door needs to me twisted to the left a few degrees. Hinge to body issue is correct and this can't be compensated by adjusting the hinge bolts. basically the welds are off and will have to have surgery. Service manager said they will more than likely send it to a local collision shop and get an estimate.:surprise: I think this will run them a few grand at least. I'd say let honda of america buy back the car and let me purchase an RTL-E at invoice and call it a day. (i.e., i'm willing to fork over the difference for the upgrade). Sucks because I really liked the truck and already sunk $1k of accessories in it. I really don't want to have a truck that's been repaired to this extent. even if the repair work is spot on, I'll know it's there and it just won't sit well with me. :frown: The district manager that has the decision power in this matter will look at this in the following day. Not sure how I feel about this mess.... maybe this explains my bitterness on the forum lately :wink:
 

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Actual response will be more like:

"The 3mm offset you described as a "door gap" is within tolerance and deemed reasonable by Honda and is not a factory flaw. You can always trade-in your RL towards another trim level and we assure you that we will give you the best trade-in allowance for your vehicle." LOL

I'll be sure to make a new post with the outcome.
Gosh that sure sounds like Toyota when their 2016 Tacoma Ltd 4x4 was found to have a buzzy vibration between 2100-2400 RPM in the steering wheel that put my hands and lower arms to sleep on longer drives. They sent me a letter that said the "steering functions as designed" and my dealer said they'd give me a 'good' trade in if I wanted something else, since there is nothing they could do until Toyota said their was an issue.

WOW...I hope that Honda treats you better than Toyota treated me.
 
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