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That's probably because their "bro" does the inspections at the local car shop, or "knows a guy".

During my 11-year stint in Tejas, I always took my vehicles to a shop where one of my tech's cousins performed the "inspection".
I need one of these "guys" here in NY... I have tints on mine and i'm overdue for inspection.. but have yet to find a place that would let me slide yet...
 

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Installed some additional trunk lighting.
 

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2019 RTL-E (white on beige) in central Texas
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Windshield caught a ~3/8" stone tossed-up from opposing traffic lane, victim of Austin's never ending road 'improvements' (dirty road construction, highway lane re-route zone) - arrrgh - :mad:

8" long crack located behind the upper dot pattern (not in line with any cam) …. already too long for 'epoxy stop', we'll see how it goes, I imagine it'll progress quickly and I'll be getting a new windshield (with associated driving aid cam recalibration) very soon.

Oh well, so it goes (aggravating nonetheless).
 

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Drove to Boston and back yesterday. 390 miles in just under 6 hours, 26.1 mpg around 19 degrees outside during the trip. Beat the snowstorm and didn't see a flake. Those Yokohama snows are noise makers for sure and mushy. With this setup, the RL feels like it's on top of the road instead of in the road (like my Accord) almost as if it could bounce it's way off the surface. Probably just me, I prefer stiffly sprung suspensions. More and more I see the RL as just a dump and Home Depot runner and a great foul weather vehicle but it's boring. Focus now is to keep the RL until Honda Care expires and focus on a replacement for the Accord. Love the price of a TRD Camry but not all the flash at a loss.
 

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Drove to Boston and back yesterday. 390 miles in just under 6 hours, 26.1 mpg around 19 degrees outside during the trip. Beat the snowstorm and didn't see a flake. Those Yokohama snows are noise makers for sure and mushy. With this setup, the RL feels like it's on top of the road instead of in the road (like my Accord) almost as if it could bounce it's way off the surface. Probably just me, I prefer stiffly sprung suspensions. More and more I see the RL as just a dump and Home Depot runner and a great foul weather vehicle but it's boring. Focus now is to keep the RL until Honda Care expires and focus on a replacement for the Accord. Love the price of a TRD Camry but not all the flash at a loss.
With you, some firmer suspension, aftermarket, I've got my money ready. I'm about to dump the OEM wheels and tires. Found aftermarket wheels which are load rated correctly, and lighter, 4-5 lbs lighter per wheel. And much much better tires. The OEM tires are terrible to me for handling.
 

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With you, some firmer suspension, aftermarket, I've got my money ready. I'm about to dump the OEM wheels and tires. Found aftermarket wheels which are load rated correctly, and lighter, 4-5 lbs lighter per wheel. And much much better tires. The OEM tires are terrible to me for handling.
Would love to get a report back on which wheels you pick (make/model, size, offset, weight, etc.).
 

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Would love to get a report back on which wheels you pick (make/model, size, offset, weight, etc.).
Enkei Performance Onx. 24.45 lbs each, which I think is 3-4 lbs lighter than the factory wheels. I had my DT rep call Enkei today. Trying to decide between the Conti LX25 or the Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus II. At least on Tire Rack, the Pirelli's got better ratings. The wheels would be a decent suspension upgrade given no aftermarket dampers available. The tires should be a night/day performance upgrade. My truck is 100% pavement. Only offroad it will do will be the boat ramp.
 

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With you, some firmer suspension, aftermarket, I've got my money ready. I'm about to dump the OEM wheels and tires. Found aftermarket wheels which are load rated correctly, and lighter, 4-5 lbs lighter per wheel. And much much better tires. The OEM tires are terrible to me for handling.
So is your solution about reducing unsprung weight? Wouldn't a stiffer sidewall like going to a VR or H rated tire (not sure if the Firestones are H rated already) help? I realize Honda probably had to tune the suspension this way to accommodate loaded/unloaded situations. I'm more of the OE type owner so I'm not sure if there are any gains left out there for me other than tires. I remember the days of my 77 Nova, put some helper springs and problems were solved.
[/QUOTE]
 

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So is your solution about reducing unsprung weight? Wouldn't a stiffer sidewall like going to a VR or H rated tire (not sure if the Firestones are H rated already) help? I realize Honda probably had to tune the suspension this way to accommodate loaded/unloaded situations. I'm more of the OE type owner so I'm not sure if there are any gains left out there for me other than tires. I remember the days of my 77 Nova, put some helper springs and problems were solved.
Yes it is about reducing unsprung weight, 100%. 3-4 lb reduction at each corner will reap immediate handling benefits. Will also increase MPG but I don’t care about MPG. also going to a H rated tire that isn’t an on/off road tire. For my use, these OEM Firestones are terrible.
 

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Actually the last few days ….
  • Saturday caught a screw in the middle of the left rear tire tread (4k miles since new) :(
  • TPMS gave early warning of the slow leak, made it to Discount Tire where they fixed it free as they do all flat tires whether or not bought from them :)
  • That got me off TDC so I ordered the matching OE tire to have 'em mount on the OE wheel I scored on classifieds here awhile back ;)
  • Monday got the new full-size spare all mounted and had 'em put the new tire on the ground as part of a five-wheel rotation pattern. (y)
Unashamed fan of my local (12 miles from home) Discount Tire Store - free flat repair and free rotation no matter where you bought the tires - this is why they've been my go-to tire guys for many years.

Life is good, loving my RL! :D
 

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Actually the last few days ….
  • Saturday caught a screw in the middle of the left rear tire tread (4k miles since new) :(
  • TPMS gave early warning of the slow leak, made it to Discount Tire where they fixed it free as they do all flat tires whether or not bought from them :)
  • That got me off TDC so I ordered the matching OE tire to have 'em mount on the OE wheel I scored on classifieds here awhile back ;)
  • Monday got the new full-size spare all mounted and had 'em put the new tire on the ground as part of a five-wheel rotation pattern. (y)
Unashamed fan of my local (12 miles from home) Discount Tire Store - free flat repair and free rotation no matter where you bought the tires - this is why they've been my go-to tire guys for many years.

Life is good, loving my RL! :D
Thank you for taking the time to share your personal experience with your local Discount Tire store. It's always fun to read outstanding comments like this.
 

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Five tire rotation at Discount Tire. Discount Tire installed my supplied tire pressure monitor in my full size spare to use in the five tire rotation. They had to break the bead to install the monitor. The new Honda tire pressure sensor started working before I got out of the parking lot.

Cost to me was $0 for the labor. I've had the monitor for about eight months but I think I payed $17 online for it most likely on ebay. The flawless like new RTL-E rim was $50 shipped.

Now that I have a full size spare, I hope to never use it.
 

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Some snow today and I was a little surprised that I could get the rear to rotate with some heavy throttle and I'm running snow tires. Felt like RWD as I could apply some opposite lock at about the same time traction control kicked in . Cant do this with a CRV. I guess this drive system isn't FWD until it senses slip. This is where the RL shines for me great pulloff traction.
 

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Some snow today and I was a little surprised that I could get the rear to rotate with some heavy throttle and I'm running snow tires. Felt like RWD as I could apply some opposite lock at about the same time traction control kicked in . Cant do this with a CRV. I guess this drive system isn't FWD until it senses slip. This is where the RL shines for me great pulloff traction.
A few things might explain the difference:

1. The CR-V system uses one clutch to send power to an open differential in the rear. The rear wheel with less traction will spin until traction control brakes the spinning wheel to transfer power to the wheel with greater traction. The Ridgeline uses two clutches to send power to both rear wheels at the same time.

2. The CR-V system drives the rear axle at a 1:1 ratio with with the front axle, The Ridgeline overdrives the rear axle by 2.7%, so It tries to push faster than it pulls.

3. If the CR-V is a 2016 or older, it only engages the rear wheels when front wheel slip is detected. For 2017, it gained the ability to engage the rear wheels proactively without the need for front wheel slip - just like the Ridgeline.

The Ridgeline's AWD system is superior and lets you have a little more fun without having to resort to reverse donuts. ;) If you ever have the SAFE opportunity to explore the Ridgeline's handling limits on dry pavement, it's very impressive for a top-heavy, 4,500-lb. vehicle with all-season tires. You can actually drift a Ridgeline if you hold your tongue just right.
 

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Thanks for the explanation @zroger73. So there is a transition to the rear. I guess the twin clutches make it feel like a limited slip with that snap loose feeling under heavy throttle. Either way, this RWD seat of the pants feel happens instantly. Feels like there is no transition to the rear wheels, like they are always engaged. Next time I'll play on some ice and see what happens. I was in the Walmart parking lot and sort of sailed it into a turn while coasting. Grip was good and then I gave it heavy throttle and it felt like RWD.
 

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A few things might explain the difference:

1. The CR-V system uses one clutch to send power to an open differential in the rear. The rear wheel with less traction will spin until traction control brakes the spinning wheel to transfer power to the wheel with greater traction. The Ridgeline uses two clutches to send power to both rear wheels at the same time.

2. The CR-V system drives the rear axle at a 1:1 ratio with with the front axle, The Ridgeline overdrives the rear axle by 2.7%, so It tries to push faster than it pulls.

3. If the CR-V is a 2016 or older, it only engages the rear wheels when front wheel slip is detected. For 2017, it gained the ability to engage the rear wheels proactively without the need for front wheel slip - just like the Ridgeline.

The Ridgeline's AWD system is superior and lets you have a little more fun without having to resort to reverse donuts. ;) If you ever have the SAFE opportunity to explore the Ridgeline's handling limits on dry pavement, it's very impressive for a top-heavy, 4,500-lb. vehicle with all-season tires. You can actually drift a Ridgeline if you hold your tongue just right.
Very helpful for my understanding - thanks.

Did the G2 AWD system change much from the G1 system? Had a 2007 RL (just sold to daughter/SIL) and now have a 2019 RTL AWD. There's a dusting of snow here and some ice around, and I was trying to get a feel for the G2's characteristics, and when accelerating on a slightly slippery patch I could really feel the rear wheels pushing....it felt nice. Don't remember my G1 doing that, but maybe I just don't remember since last winter.
 

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Did the G2 AWD system change much from the G1 system?
Yes. While both systems use two variable clutches to send power to the rear wheels before front wheel slip is detected, there are several differences in the fundamental design and operation.
  • VTM-4's clutches are engaged using electromagnets and balls rolling up a ramp. iVTM-4's clutches are engaged using hydraulic pressure from an electric pump and controlled through solenoid valves.
  • VTM-4 has a 1.7% overdrive. iVTM-4 has a 2.7% overdrive.
  • VTM-4 operates the left and right clutches in parallel. iVTM-4 operates the left and right clutches independently for torque vectoring (helps turn the vehicle).
 
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