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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to rotate my tires and check my brakes yesterday and learned that my crappy floor jack doesn't extend high enough to get the wheels off the ground! I pulled out the bottle jack from the spare tire area and tried that, but it was going to be too much work to crank that thing up for all four wheels. So....

Do you guys typically use a floor jack or a bottle jack to get your Ridgeline up on jack stands? Bottle jacks sure are cheaper; I see a 20-ton version at Harbor Freight that extends to 18" for $40. A similar floor jack from Harbor Freight that extends to 18" costs $150.

I'll only be doing light maintenance so I don't need anything special, and I'd certainly like to keep the price close to $50 if possible. Based on that, I'm leaning towards the bottle jack (http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-hydraulic-bottle-jack-66482.html). Is an 18" lift going to be enough to get the wheel off the ground? Any better options out there? Thanks!
 

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I use a cheap Sears floor jack. It by it self does not lift high enough, so I went to Home Depot and bought a 2" x 10" x 12' board. Cut it into 4 equal lenghts. I put two together and put the jack on top, it is just high enough to get the tire off. Oh I put a jack stand under it and then jack up the end, to do my rotation. To answer your question why 4 pieces, I use two on each side of the ramps when I drive my wife's Accord on them. Hope this helps.
 

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My 2 1/2 ton long frame floor jack does the lifting for me on the central jack points. It has a lifting range from 5 3/4 to 31 5/8 inches.

On the jack stand side, I have 3 sets in my garage and won't consider buying anything under 6 tons in the future... not for the weight, but for the working range. You need a minimum of 18" to get the wheels off the ground.

My 6 ton units work from just under 15" to 23.5 inches. When I have it lifted for tire rotations or brake jobs, I'm around the 18" mark to the j/s saddle. My lighter j/s are either at the top of the range or in the top 75% of the range, which I find a bit uncomfortable when I'm working under the truck.

The 12 ton units start at 18-ish and go to about 29 1/2 inches.

Don't go cheap here. Your life might depend on it.

I have an old 3 ton pair of j/s that I have to block up with wood to get the lift I need, even at max extension. I retired those and bought some 4 ton units from Sears. But then I found those were working in the top 25% or more of the working range so I bought the 6 ton units referenced above. I like the working range of that much better. Yes, it took me 3 pair of j/s to figure this out. :rolleyes: I always end up spending more money when I try to go cheap. You think I'd learn.

Frankly, I don't think you're going to find a decent jack for $50. But if you can, use the central jack points and put decent j/s under the side lift points. That would be my recommendation.

My RL on the wimpy 3 ton j/s (now mostly retired):


My LF floor jack:


My j/s collection:


-The 3 ton is at max extension and is 17 3/8 inches to the saddle. It's too short and has to be blocked to have enough lift for the tires to clear.
-The 4 ton is about 3/4 extension (maybe more) and is at 17 1/2 inches to the saddle.
-The 6 ton is under 1/2 extension and is 18 inches to the saddle.
 

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I'd much prefer this over the OEM jack included with the RL. That is a major piece of junk.
I think that's a good one, and 20" is enough height. Plus, being manual, there's less to go wrong.

Some others, especially hydraulic, are marginally height impaired. Though some have used shorter jacks on the lower suspension arms for raising corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Central jack point -- can you elaborate? I thought the only jacking points were near the four corners. If there's a jack point that can get two wheels off the ground at once that sure would save me a lot of time!
 

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Central jack point -- can you elaborate? I thought the only jacking points were near the four corners. If there's a jack point that can get two wheels off the ground at once that sure would save me a lot of time!
Someone will post a diagram, but just look under the front and rear. There are two steel tabs, like 1/4" thick and oriented along the center line. They are approved lift points for front/rear of the vehicle.

KeS
 

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Central jack point -- can you elaborate? I thought the only jacking points were near the four corners. If there's a jack point that can get two wheels off the ground at once that sure would save me a lot of time!
Here's rear:


and the front:
 

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I've had to use the OEM jack twice already. First time with less than 1000 miles on my RL when I ran over a beer bottle in the road and sliced my tire. Fortunately, I was able to have the tire repaired.



Also, I'd read enough at the ROC to know to put a short section of 2x6 in my trunk and had something to stabilize and elevate the OEM POS jack so I could put my compact spare on.
 

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A couple of short 2x6s to put under the crappy OEM jack. And air in the spare. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ended up gettin this baby on sale at Harbor Freight for $65. You can see the "little red jack that couldn't" as well -- what a difference. For future reference, an 18" lift is plenty to get the tires off the ground.

 

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So what all do i need to put in the trunk on a trip in case i have a flat?
A cell phone and AAA card!

The scissor jack from Northern looks really nice and compact. That's the jack that I would get instead of the OEM. Throw in a piece of 2X12 in case you need to put the jack on it. Some gloves and yes a spare that's full of air!
 
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Yeah - I bought one of those the first week I had my truck, *assuming* it would be sufficient. Found out the hard way that it wasn't. :(

I'm finally getting a full size spare next week - think I'll invest in a 18-20" capable jack at the same time...

- Chip


You can see the "little red jack that couldn't" as well
 
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