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2017 AWD SPORT. Peragon. 1.5x0.5 traxda lift. 265/60/18 allseason. Elec popnlock. Door hack.
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How difficult was it to remove the plastic seat rail?
Is it easy to get back in?
Can someone sit in a back seat with no rail installed?
I have a 60lb golden doodle to put in the back. Trying to decide on a carpeted platform or removing the rail. Thanks.
It was very easy. There are 12 automotive clips/plugs on the bottom of it. When installed, they point straight down. To remove, pull straight up on the rail. I took it out nearly 5yrs ago, so I don't really remember exactly how I did it. I know I got the idea/instructions from this forum somewhere.

I think I just pried up one end with a flathead. Once the two clips on the end pop out, you just keep lifting that end. It should go back on even easier. Just get the plugs lined up with the holes and push down to snap it into place.

It is a bit of an eyesore with the rail removed, but my husky liner covers it up. The husky liner is made to fit over the rail, and without the rail there, it just gets smashed down where the rail is supposed to be. Not an issue, imo.

You will still have the metal brackets on the floor that the seat rail snaps into. Do not remove these. I believe these support most of the weight that is on the seat. These floor brackets are something to be mindful of. Either by protecting them from heavy cargo, or protecting people, pets, and cargo from the brackets. The husky liner helps with this, but I also usually have a "moving blanket bed" in the backseat for my dogs that also protects the brackets from cargo and vice versa.

I've been very pleasantly surprised with the few times I've dismantled some stuff in the interior. In my previous vehicles, I hated doing anything like this because I would almost always break clips or plastic pieces. So far, all the clips in the ridgeline have just popped out and not broken. Good luck.
 

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It was very easy. There are 12 automotive clips/plugs on the bottom of it. When installed, they point straight down. To remove, pull straight up on the rail. I took it out nearly 5yrs ago, so I don't really remember exactly how I did it. I know I got the idea/instructions from this forum somewhere.

I think I just pried up one end with a flathead. Once the two clips on the end pop out, you just keep lifting that end. It should go back on even easier. Just get the plugs lined up with the holes and push down to snap it into place.

It is a bit of an eyesore with the rail removed, but my husky liner covers it up. The husky liner is made to fit over the rail, and without the rail there, it just gets smashed down where the rail is supposed to be. Not an issue, imo.

You will still have the metal brackets on the floor that the seat rail snaps into. Do not remove these. I believe these support most of the weight that is on the seat. These floor brackets are something to be mindful of. Either by protecting them from heavy cargo, or protecting people, pets, and cargo from the brackets. The husky liner helps with this, but I also usually have a "moving blanket bed" in the backseat for my dogs that also protects the brackets from cargo and vice versa.

I've been very pleasantly surprised with the few times I've dismantled some stuff in the interior. In my previous vehicles, I hated doing anything like this because I would almost always break clips or plastic pieces. So far, all the clips in the ridgeline have just popped out and not broken. Good luck.
Excellent thank you
 

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2022 WBE
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ScanGauge II…..use it everyday. Did the door checkers but seldom open rear doors.
Scangauge... for what, exactly?
 

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Rear door checkers is a must. Also a "real" 2-way remote start. OEM model is junk unless I open the door to garage and stand 10' away. Also simple wood dividers in the trunk keeps the junk in its place.
Seriously? OEM has never failed me in 5 years. Can start the truck from at least 100 feet away. This being the second post about short-distance remote start I have read this week, I may have to do an experiment for the forum...
 

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Sprint booster.

OEM cd player added. (I DON'T want to hear all the "Put your cd's on a flash dive blah blah blah crap!!!") You do you, I'll do me.
What is a cd player?
 

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Scangauge... for what, exactly?
Knowledge.........CT1, CT2, Gear, Vacuum/boost, Volts, Loop (closed/open), TFT, Iat, VCM, DTC codes, etc., etc.
 

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What is a cd player?
A CD player is an electronic device that plays audio compact discs, which are a digital optical disc data storage format. CD players were first sold to consumers in 1982. CDs typically contain recordings of audio material such as music or audiobooks. CD players may be part of home stereo systems, car audio systems, personal computers, or portable CD players such as CD boomboxes. Most CD players produce an output signal via a headphone jack or RCA jacks. To use a CD player in a home stereo system, the user connects an RCA cable from the RCA jacks to a hi-fi (or other amplifier) and loudspeakers for listening to music. To listen to music using a CD player with a headphone output jack, the user plugs headphones or earphones into the headphone jack.

Modern units can play audio formats other than the original CD PCM audio coding, such as MP3, AAC and WMA. DJs playing dance music at clubs often use specialized players with an adjustable playback speed to alter the pitch and tempo of the music. Audio engineers using CD players to play music for an event through a sound reinforcement system use professional audio-grade CD players. CD playback functionality is also available on CD-ROM/DVD-ROM drive equipped computers as well as on DVD players and most optical disc-based home video game consoles.
 

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A CD player is an electronic device...
Thanks, but I was joking.

Don't think I have had a CD for about 10 years now. Not even on my laptops.
 
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Knowledge.........CT1, CT2, Gear, Vacuum/boost, Volts, Loop (closed/open), TFT, Iat, VCM, DTC codes, etc., etc.
Ok. But other than DTC codes, what do you do with that info as you drive? Do you pull over if the vacuum or voltage is too low?

I can see my gear, coolant temp, MPH, and pretty much everything else I need to with the display that came with the truck, as far as I know. But I certainly learn a lot more about what others think is important here on ROC!
 

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I know you were. As I already stated "You do you. I'll do me".
I wish I knew you a few years back when I threw away two 3 inch binders full of music CDs. You might have scored some that you didn't already have.
 
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2019 RTL-T
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Seriously? OEM has never failed me in 5 years. Can start the truck from at least 100 feet away. This being the second post about short-distance remote start I have read this week, I may have to do an experiment for the forum...
Mine works great. I remotely start my RL from the third floor of a brick building 75 feet away from the vehicle.
 

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……….. what do you do with that info as you drive? Do you pull over if the vacuum or voltage is too low?"……….
Sure, I pull over, pop the hood, have a look, doing so could yield a simple fix……doesn’t everybody when they see info indicating something is not normal/out of whack.🤷‍♂️

At what coolant temp does the factory needle stop moving…..when does it start moving again? Thread title says single best, ScanGauge by Linear Logic has been my choice for about 22 years now.😉
 

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Sure, I pull over, pop the hood, have a look, doing so could yield a simple fix……doesn’t everybody when they see info indicating something is not normal/out of whack.🤷‍♂️

At what coolant temp does the factory needle stop moving…..when does it start moving again? Thread title says single best, ScanGauge by Linear Logic has been my choice for about 22 years now.😉
Sorry if it sounds like I am knocking your choice, I don't mean to. Just trying to understand the logic behind the use. I know folks who use them to tune for performance, but it sounds like you are just looking at parameters that have never mattered to me in 50 years of driving or 35 years of flying.

I mean, if there is something that I am missing, or something that would make me a safer, more informed driver, I'd like to know so I can get in on the action.
 

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As for the OP, I'd go with my SmartLiner floor mats as #1. A Peragon tonneau cover and the Bed Rug as my next two.

Other tidbits I have installed on my last two trucks are:

Tri-color stop/turn/reverse LED bar
Splash guards (Husky this time, bigger than my previous brand which were bigger than OEM)
Running boards
Trunk lights (two on previous truck, four on this one)
Door sill protectors on this truck (didn't have them on my previous two trucks)
 
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You are a pilot….with lots of parameters in front of you, no?
 

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Seriously? OEM has never failed me in 5 years. Can start the truck from at least 100 feet away. This being the second post about short-distance remote start I have read this week, I may have to do an experiment for the forum...
Same here. I open the garage doors of my detached garage with a WIFI app and start the truck. The only time it has ever failed is when I left one of the rear doors ajar after removing stuff and the doors did not lock, keeping the vehicle from starting. I can start the truck from the farthest point in my house without a problem - unless I don't properly close the back door! :)
 

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You are a pilot….with lots of parameters in front of you, no?
Yes. The ones that matter, as determined by the manufacturer. Never once have I added anything to a plane to cause it to tell me "more".
 
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