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Discussion Starter #1
What is the long strip that is body coloured inside of the fender? A part of it was hanging and I was able to glue it back. I'm having a rust problem and I'm wondering how to fix it. That and the rust starting on the rocker panel.

Does anyone have any idea what it is? And also the best method to take care of my rust problem?

Thanks
 

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That is sealer (think caulking). It is applied in the paint department (before the vehicle is painted).

If that sealer has come loose, you have some serious rust issues. The rust you see on the outside is nothing compared to the rust you will find behind it.
 

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OldNorske is correct... body sealer. I also agree that what you can see is the least of your problems. There are some very serious structural members that probably have rust cancer behind that panel. As far as fixing the problem... I'm doubting there would be a reasonable way to do so.

I'd like to know more about this Ridgeline. What area has it lived? How many miles? Any previous accidents?

I'm not trying to pile on, but if that's never been damaged before I'd love to pull the bed side panel to see what and where the cancer started.
 

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Also, has the Ridge been sitting a while? I noticed the rear discs have a fair amount of surface rust. If she's driven regularly, there something happening back there.

Joe has good advice, pull the forward cabin/bed wall, then pull the side bed walls. Should only take a few minutes and you'll have clear view to the inner skins.

Sorry for your troubles!

Adding image. Ignore arrows.

Clean_And_Wired.jpg
 

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Very curious about your location/vehicle history.

Looks like your Canadian from other threads I read.
This level of corrosion is very unusual and I'd like to know more.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The Ridgeline was located in Northern Ontario for many years (Sudbury). I purchased the truck from my father about 2 years ago. It has always been well maintained and never been in an accident. It has been driven every day. It has about 175,000km on it now. Thanks for your help.
 

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Yeah - pull the bed panels. You will need a Torx bit for this.
Was the cap along the edge of the bed ever missing?
Did the bed ever have more than an inch of water in it?

Chip H.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The caps have never been removed and the bed has never had water in it. I do have a Access Tonneau cover installed.
 

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patr_1_8,

go ahead and pull the panels, take lots of pics and get the full history of the truck.

But also, please make time to visit the local dealer and express your/our concern. I think it's still Palladino in Sudbury, and Mike might still be the manager?

Have them inspect the undercarriage carefully for the extent of the corrosion. They need to open a file and get in touch with Honda Canada to let them know what's up.
 

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I'm sure you've connected the dots by now, so forgive if this is stating the obvious....

At the tail gate end of the bed caps, there's a phillips head screw under a cosmetic cover. Pop that cover, remove the screw and slide the cap towards the rear to remove it.

The inner bed cab/side walls are attached with T-50 torx head bolts. The tie down brackets are T-46 (if I recall correctly).

When the panels are off, pay close attention to the wheel tub/fender intersection. This is the joint where the seam sealer is applied at the factory before paint is sprayed.

Seam sealer is everywhere panels attached to one another. Image below points to the wheel tub/fender meet, and "bare" seam sealer at the cabin/bed wall.

SeamSealer.jpg

It's hard to imagine how the sealer in your RL released so evenly - creating a line around the wheel arch that looks like it was intended to be that way (rather than an assembly defect). I've witnessed sealer letting go of its intended location before, but not so "perfectly" as this one. This could be an indicator of a factory assembly defect.

Not to beat the drum... but since the RL is regularly driven, there is something wrong with the way the brake rotor are wearing - or not wearing. If the pads/calipers are functioning properly, the surface of the disc should be free of rust. Totally guessing here, but it looks like your rear brakes aren't working at all. According to the picture, the olny wear happening is pad drag typical of disc brakes. Possibly a symptom of "frozen" calipers - perhaps rust on the slide pins preventing them from compressing pad to rotor.

Please update as your find out more. And best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks a lot for the information. I'm pretty sure the truck had been sitting for about 2 days when I took the pictures. I will inspect my brakes tonight. I just had a full brake inspection done about a month ago when I got my last service (code number 4). I won't be able to remove my panels until tomorrow afternoon. I am not looking forward to this.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I wasn't able to remove the panels today. I didn't have the correct tools. I will have the proper tools tomorrow. I took some pictures from inside the wheel well and some pictures of the other side to show the comparison. I also took a picture of the rust on the lower rocker panel. (all on the same panel) Something is definitely wrong here. I also have some rust when I open the fuel door. I will update tomorrow with pictures from inside the bed. (sorry for the dirty pictures, the snow has finally melted and I haven't had a chance to wash the truck yet and its raining outside)
 

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Thanks for posting the pics. It's actually not as bad as I had expected, but that doesn't make the fix any easier. It appears that it was e-coated properly, but no clear explanation of what caused the failure of the e-coat anti-corrosion. It does appear that it started on the inside as I expected.
 

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Sorry for the delay. Here are the pictures from inside the bed. Let me know what you guys think and what I should do from here. Thank you
I don't know your situation (how much you are willing to spend to fix this).

If it were me, I would leave the bed panels off and take it to a body shop for an opinion.
 

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Question & amateur observation:

Was there a tonneau cover over the bed? Reason for the question: I don't recognize a few brackets towards the upper part of the inner bed walls. If there was a bed cover, perhaps the area didn't breath as an uncovered bed does which might be amplified by environment, salty roads perhaps? But that's a total guess on my part.

Anyhow, agree with both Joe and old norske. The corrosion appears mostly surface, not as bad as first imagined - seems concentrated at joints and edges. Best to get into a local trusted shop. IME: rust removal techniques can stall progression but if the body shop is casual with technique can actually makes things worse in the long run. Getting in the small spaces at panel intersections can be a b!tch and that's where it counts most.
 

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Joe -
Any comments about the amount of moisture that was in there? I'm looking at where it trickled down off the wheel well arch. Looks too heavy to be condensation.

Question for OP - was this parked in a heated garage?

Chip H.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have an Access tonneau cover installed and it uses those brackets to mount a rail.

The truck was parked in a heated underground garage everyday from September 2014 until July 2015.
 

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I have an Access tonneau cover installed and it uses those brackets to mount a rail.

The truck was parked in a heated underground garage everyday from September 2014 until July 2015.
Ah, again, amateur perspective here but my guess is you've got multiple factors working here.

Starting with salty roads, the affects of that amplified by air flow limited by the cover, amplified by "new" points of hydraulic entry where the tonneau cover mounts amplified by humidity in a heated garage causing "sweat" that never fully dehydrates, amplified by isolation from fresh water to dilute/wash away salt.
 
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