Is the subwoofer on a different fuse from the main stereo amp? Maybe there are multiple amps on the top trims? That may make up for some wattage...225 watts peak to peak is 161 watts RMS for a pure sine wave into a pure resistive load. Music isn't a pure sine wave and speakers are inductive, not resistive and speaker and amp efficiency varies so your RMS power and SPL sound pressure level will be all over the map!!! The RTLE and Black advertise 540 watt audio system, but the amp is fused at 30A. Fuses are usually rated at 125% of the maximum load so that's 24 amps times 12 volts which is 288 watts. Honda prolly uses a Class AB amp which may may be 65% efficient so now you're down to 187 watts p-p or about 134 RMS. That there is a looong ways from the 540 that is advertised, kiddoz!!!
Not according to the manual and the diagrams I saw on here the other day.Is the subwoofer on a different fuse from the main stereo amp? Maybe there are multiple amps on the top trims?
If worded carefully, it may not be false advertising...
Yeah, I grew up as a teenager in the 80s, when fly-by-night companies would be trying to sell 2000-watt car stereos to clueless kids for $125.Not according to the manual and the diagrams I saw on here the other day.
Far as I know there's no such thing as "wattage police". Ever hear of anyone suing a carmaker cause the radio didn't put out as many watts as was listed in the brochure? Zactly... 99% of buyers ain't got a clue about wattage or THD or sensitivity or SPL other than they may have heard those words before and "mine has 5,000 more jigawatts than yours" type bull. THD isn't even listed. That's a important number. A 10 watt RMS system that has 0.01% THD at 10 watts will sound a hell of a lot better than a 1,000 watt system with 50% distortion at that level!!!! Its all marketing bull crap. Ask yourself...does this sound good to me or not? If not replace it with something else until it does. HAHAHA!!!!